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Author Topic: Wasps  (Read 1875 times)

docsal

  • Joined Feb 2017
Wasps
« on: August 21, 2017, 12:49:52 pm »
First-time bee-keeper here.
My hive appeared to be under a major wasp attack when I inspected last week - a relatively new nucleus, so I was feeding ambrosia syrup, which seems to have been the attraction. I had a wasp excluder in place, they were mainly at the entrance and all over the surface of the hive. I removed the syrup and the wasps seem to have given up. Bees seem happy again.
Should I hold off feeding them til the wasps die off?? I am hoping the bees have found the heather on the hill behind us. I saw some honey bees on it when I walked up yesterday but couldn't say for sure if it was one of mine  ;) ;D

DavidandCollette

  • Joined Dec 2012
Re: Wasps
« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2017, 10:04:39 am »
Use a bit of jam in water in a jam jar with a hole in the lid it will attract the wasps

cloddopper

  • Joined Jun 2013
  • South Wales .Carmarthenshire. SA18
Re: Wasps
« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2017, 04:09:51 pm »
When you say" A wasp excluder " I'm not sure what you mean , can you describe it please ?
 
 Most devices to stop theft etc are a block of wood  usually an oak strip , slightly thinner at the back edge than the front face . It's  inserted into the hive opening  with two small  groves chiselled / cut through it  so the groove is to the floor board .  These grooves are about an inch wide by 1/2 " deep .
 
 The groove goes right through the block ,  the grove is only wide & deep enough for two bees to pass through together  side by side.

The guard bees at teh hive entrance can keep control when such a hive block is in place
Strong belief , triggers the mind to find the way ... Dyslexia just makes it that bit more amusing & interesting

docsal

  • Joined Feb 2017
Re: Wasps
« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2017, 11:09:03 am »
I have a 'Beehaus'. It has a metal grid that slides into the entrance which restricts entry in the way you describe.
The wasps are still trying to get in but there are dead ones outside the entrance so I assume the guard bees are coping.

cloddopper

  • Joined Jun 2013
  • South Wales .Carmarthenshire. SA18
Re: Wasps
« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2017, 09:11:57 pm »
TGhis year for most keepers its been a lousy season for beekeeping Now is the time to see how much you need to feed your bees to ensure that they have a brood box and a super stocked full with stores & bee bread for seeing them through the winter . As soon as you start bee feeding the wasp problem will increase  so chose your feeders carefully and feed them mainly at night 7 don't spill any syrup .

Using a battery LED head light with a red filter or red LED's on it  allows you to do this feeding task in hours of darkness & does not spook the bees like a white light does .

I used to move all my migratory hives at night & fed them via a 3 inch deep  feeder tray  the same size as a super . Doing it under red lights using a watering can of syrup or 12 volt  pumping it out a hose pipe from a 45 gallon syrup barrel in my trailer .
 
 Waps tend to work from 7 oC to well into the 40's emerging from their nests at dawns half light into moon light if it is warm & bright enough .
 Honey bees  start coming out their hives at 10 oC around 07.00 hrs on a good day & return when it is 1/4 hr before dusk so the wasps will always about before & after the bees get up or go to bed .
The hive has 24/7 sentries all the time except the dormant period when they ball up / cluster round the queen in readiness for winter so leave the block in place till the wasps stop flying then put the moluse guards on  .
A forecast short warm period may reactivate a wasp nest so be prepared to nip out & put the blocks back in for a few days but don't leave them on over winter as the hive may sweat & go mouldy .
Strong belief , triggers the mind to find the way ... Dyslexia just makes it that bit more amusing & interesting

 

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