[andywalt]

I look to recieve my flock of suffock x ewes (13)and  Norfolk Horn ram in the first week in September, as I cannot guarentee what worming or vaccinations have been given in the past and I think I will have some foot trimming to do, please could I have you comments and advice for what type of wormer to use? the ewes will be just about pregnant and I was thinking it best that I get it done sooner rather than later...... what type of wormers are prefered? and how long will it last and what gun applicator used? maybe there are some wormers that cover more types of worms and flukes ect? all comments appreciated.

A second question would be maybe an important one, is there any vaccinations that I MUST give them on an annual basis?

[supplies for smallholders]

Hi again Andy,

For advice on worming speak to someone qualified, often vets give free advice, then you can shop around and find where best to buy it.

Same thing really for your vaccination plan - it depends what you will be doing with your sheep - we always use Omnivac or Heptevac on an annual basis, and crovect or an organic fly repellant to prevent fly strike.

Drenchers & Vaccinators are a lot easier :

https://www.suppliesforsmallholders.co.uk/animal-health-c-33.html

You may see posts where people use all sorts of strange ways to apply products to livestock, but remember most of these are controlled medical products and the dosage should be applied as accurately as possible, and recorded.

Thanks Again

Thanks

[Rosemary]

I discussed worming with our vet before I moved the sheep to Dalmore. The ground here hadn't had sheep on for years.

His advice was - move them, graze them for 5-6 weeks, do a faecal worm count then worm if necessary. If you worm on arrival, you will contaminate your land with the resistant worms, leading to future problems.

[andywalt]

hi Rosemary

the fields where my sheep wil be going have had goats on and im not sure they have even been wormed, so do you still think I should not worm straight away or should I worm to protect them, Im a bit confused now?

[supplies for smallholders]

Hi Andy,

My previous post still stands :

For advice on worming speak to someone qualified

Thanks

[humphreymctush]

you need a drenching gun. The bottle of wormer goes upside down on you back like a rucsack. When you get the wormer make sure you get a lid with a nozzle to attatch the tube from the gun.

[Anke]

When they arrive keep them on a small(ish) patch of land that you can then keep free of sheep if necessary for a while afterwards. Do a worm count on arrival and take advice from your vet. Talk to your vet about fluke in your area.

If you are not sure about any vaccinations (and you plan to use them) a starter shot of 2x 2ml of Heptavac P+ four/five weeks apart will be necessary (I again do that to all sheep/goats that come onto the farm unless I buy from someone I trust). Not quite sure if this is possible in early pregnancy - if they are already in lamb you will have a fairly early lambing season coming up!

I will worm my stock on the leaving day, especially if they go on a lengthy journey, so they can get rid of (any) worms on the journey.

[Rosemary]

I will worm my stock on the leaving day, especially if they go on a lengthy journey, so they can get rid of (any) worms on the journey.

Won't that just leave any worms resistant to the wormer to go to the new owner's place?

[andywalt]

please tell me, when you worm the flock doesnt it kill all worms in the animals? why would the worms become resistant?

[Rosemary]

Unfortunately, natural selection being what it is, some worms are resistant to wormers. This is a growing problem and why the pharmaceutical companies have to keep developing new chemicals to kill the worms that are resistant to the old chemicals. Things like underdosing - ie giving less than the recommended dose for the weight of animal - which makes the worms sick, but allows some to survive and develop resistance, have exacerbated the problem. This is a simplified explanation, but you get my drift.

Most adult animals can carry some level of worm burden without coming to any great harm but young animals are more seriously affected.

Our vet recommends testing and worming only when necessary and only those animals that show signs of a significant worm burden. Testing not only indicates when worming may be required but will also show if your worming programme is effective.

[andywalt]

thanks rosemary that makes sence, so I am now wondering if I should worm or not? hummmm I will have to think that one over !!

[Rosemary]

Speak to your vet - they really are helpful (at least ours are). Worm test rather than blanket chemicals, maybe.

[Anke]

Rosemary - I have so far not had to worm my flock as such, only treat for fluke. Do worm counts a couple of times a year, so far ok. But I had to worm my goats, so question is when do the sheep (in the field next to the goats) get wormy?

I have also this summer had cattle co - grazing my main field with the sheep, so hopefully this will have cleaned it up. (But not sure I could the cattle into the goats field with the goats there...)

Giving them a shot of wormer on leaving just makes sure they go out clean, and it means that I am sure they do not bring anything onto the new place. I have had no problems with resistance to date.