OK, so maybe you know that anybody who passed their test after 1997 needs to pass an additional trailer competency test if they want to tow a trailer over 750kg, or if the "MAM", or Maximum Authorised Mass of the car plus trailer exceeds 3500 kg.
In my case, this caused a big problem, since our Landy has a MAM of 2500kg, which left only 1000 kg of allowance left for both the trailer and its load. In other words, if I want to collect a builder's bag of sand for instance, unless I can find a super light trailer made of carbon fibre or similar, I'd need a B+E upgrade to my 1998 passed car license, to comply with the law (boo, hiss!). The rules are complicated though, and get even worse if you passed your car test after 2013.
Full details can be found here.So, assuming you're reading this because you want to get your B+E license, here's my idiot's guide, from having just been through the process:
(Beware - long, rambling post. If you can't be bothered, just skip down to the conclusion! 
)
- The test will be held at your local commercial vehicle test centre, and is basically the same as a lorry test. It includes about an hour's driving, which includes ten minutes of independent navigation, i.e. "please follow the signs to Timbuktu", a reversing exercise, and un-coupling / re-coupling the trailer.
- The trailer you use for the test has to be solid sided and about the same width and height as the car (so you can't see over it or through it), must have at least 1000kg MAM, and must be carrying a load of at least 600kg.
- During the test, you're allowed no more than 15 minor faults. Three or more minor faults within the same category (three minors for lack of mirror checks for example) also results in a test failure, as does a single serious or dangerous fault. That's basically the same as the standard car driving test, but because you're on the road for an hour, the overall standard required to count as a pass ends up being significantly higher.
- The reversing exercise is fairly straightforward, if somewhat contrived. You have to pull forward up to some cones, then reverse in an S-shape back into a bay to the rear and parallel to where you started. This diagram shows it well:
The idea is to end up with the back of the trailer overhanging a 1 foot wide stripe on the road. You're allowed two 'shunts' forward during the exercise, and I'll be honest, I used one - I still don't quite know what happened, but I was suddenly aware that I was going too far over towards the bottom of the diagram, so decided to shunt forwards and straighten up again, just to play safe really.
You're also allowed to get out of the car and look once, to check your position. In fact, it's advised that you do this at the end, to satisfy yourself that you are indeed over the yellow strip, as it would be daft not to check, and then to fail on something so simple!
The key thing I struggled with here was that although I
thought I already knew how to reverse a trailer, I had always done it by looking either out of the driver's window, or through the rear window of the car. Of course when I started practicing for the test, suddenly I couldn't do that, and had to use my mirrors instead - thus instantly resetting myself to rank beginner status, as all the movements were reversed (doh!). So, my top tip for this bit is
before you go for lessons, practice reversing a trailer using only the wing mirrors on the car. Remember if you see 'too much' trailer on the right, or want to avoid an obstacle on the right, you need to turn the steering wheel to the right. Vice-versa if the obstacle is on the left. Practice doing this (little movements only) until you can confidently reverse the trailer in both a straight line, and round in circles in both directions using only the wing mirrors. That means that when you get to the test, it will be natural, and you won't fluff up (as I so nearly did) by over-thinking things!
- For coupling up exercise, you are allowed to reverse back nearly to the trailer, and then manually heave the trailer forwards and onto the car towball. Being allowed to do this makes the whole thing far, far simpler, and thankfully requires much less precision than trying to do it exactly!
- When coupled, you must wind the hitch back up a little, to make sure the car starts to rise too (thus confirming the hitch is locked on properly). Not doing this is a fail.
- For the driving, practice for a while beforehand, only using your wing mirrors, and remember they have to always be checked in pairs. So for instance, to turn right, check left mirror, check right mirror, signal, mirror again, maneuver. I found I was very guilty of checking my mirror *as* I signalled, and was very lucky to have an examiner who didn't fail me for that.
- When approaching roundabouts etc, I initially went way too fast, so my instructor had me practicing reducing speed right down far earlier, selecting a gear only when I knew if I could go or not, and then taking it from there. If you're like me, and have 15 years of bad habits, practice to get rid of them before you even think about doing the test!
So in the end I passed first time, with 'just' four minor faults. One of these was apparently for getting too close to a parked car that in hindsight I don't think I'd even noticed. Oops! 
A day and a half's tuition culminating in the test cost me £435 with Hunter Driving School in Falkirk, and was frankly very, very hard. However, with the right instruction and practice, it evidently is possible to pass first time (thank God, and I am never driving in Livingston or Bathgate EVER AGAIN!!). Just practice a lot beforehand, don't take anything for granted, and you'll be fine.I hope that's helpful!
Womble.
Topic: A survivor's guide to the B+E trailer test! (Read 15592 times)
