[billydeangant]

We have pet pigs (yes i know) which we adore but they have taken to fighting. They are old spot cross Kune Kune (so small(ish!!) about 2 years old. We have three; one from a previous pair (one sadly died) and another pair of sisters - the sisters are now knocking lumps out of each other and we have had to separate them (one had a chunk of ear removed and multiple scars). 

So we've separated them which is a real shame...

Also one has developed a bad limp and swelling on one ankle which vet says could be a sprain or an infection - but giving her jabs has been horrendous and we have given up (too stressful for us and especially the pig). So any pearls of wisdom greatly appreciated.

[devonlady]

I found my girls would fall out when in season or, at least, coming into season. They need space to be off on their own I found. Also I fed them separately.
I had to give one of my Kunes an antibiotic jab every day and, bless her, would stick her head in the hedge when she saw me coming!

[HappyHippy]

I'd guess it's a challenge for a change in the pecking order - if it were linked to their seasons I think you'd have had problems before now.
Who was top pig before, was it the older one? If she's a bit ill (or has the limp) the younger ones will sense this and could be fighting it out for the top spot. I'd separate the limping one from the others until she is back to full health - you HAVE to treat her though, no matter how stressful it is. You can't just let it go on as it might get worse and worse and no treatment is ever as stressful as having an animal dispatched and collected by the knackerman 
I'd go for antiinflammatory jab and long lasting antibiotic jab  first - that way you don't have to go near her with a needle for at least 5 days (give her a chance to forgive you  ) but if they're all in together she'll be getting a hard time, so split her out until she's completely recovered.
If it's any consolation, head/ear injuries suggest a minor piggy disagreement rather than 'proper' fighting where they'll attack each others back ends and bite at vulvas - so it should all settle down once everyone is back to full health.
Good luck and keep us posted!

[billydeangant]

Thanks it looks like a sprain on the injured girl - we have treated with both oral anti-b's (in case it was an infection) as she was so stressed with jabs and metacam and is improving.

we would really like them to live in the same pen so they share one bigger space and cuddle up inside etc so will try again I think when back on form. All three can see each other and interact through the post and rail and wide stock wire but it's not the same.

Thanks all

[harmony]

The longer they are apart the harder it will be to get them all back in together and whenever it happens the pecking order will need to be established again. Ears and tails can easily be damaged in a scrap but the rest of the pig is fairly tough. If you think about the damage they could do with their teeth yours sounds fairly low key.


Are they getting enough food? Not enough to go round will cause scraps. Does one eat up quicker than the others? Do they have enough room? Unless you have serious fighters the submissive pig will get out of the way if it can.


Injections are never easy. If you can't restrain the pig for eg behind a gate so you can do the job quickly then consider getting one of those injection thingys (name escapes me) that you can do without getting too close.  Always make sure you have sharp needles and one for injecting pigs too.

[Cuddles]

I had a sickly weaner earlier in the year and had issues trying to inject them/take their temp etc (weaners are a lot smaller and less powerful I know).  Initially I used my livestock trailer and a hurdle/gate hold her in place.  However that was a bit of faff when she started feeling a bit better.  In the end a big bucket with some feed & other goodies was much more of a distraction.  She was so engrossed, head in bucket, that I could do both and and she wasn't bothered!

[IretonsFarm]

Injecting pigs can be difficult as they harder to restrain once more than a couple of months old.

That said if it is a really poorly pig the first two days they don't put up much of a fight, its day three when they are (hopefully) feeling better and know whats coming that the fun begins!

You need to make it as stressless as possible for both you and the pig, not easy I know if your not used to it. As already mentioned distraction is the best approach, if they are still interested in food then its best to inject when feeding, ideally in a tough or bucket so they aren't tempted to wander around. For good reason in this case you have separated the pig but again if you only want to inject one pig out of a litter get them all in the trough that way they won't see you coming!

Get yourself a slap-shot http://www.yorkvetsupplies.co.uk/product/slap-shot-flexible-vaccinator so you can pop the needle in and when they shake their head (which they almost always do) the needle should stay in long enough for you to get the shot in. Don't forget if possible to massage the injection site briefly afterwards to make sure the fluid disperses.

A tip if you are using the slap shot for a single injection daily, ask your vet for 10 ml of saline to push the medication through otherwise you end up wasting a lot in the tube.