[ryaldinhio]

Hi guys,

a few months ago we purchased some extra land and now have about half an acre at the back of our house and we would like to dig a wildlife pond for plants, bugs, birds and fish.  a month after that we had a 360 in clearing some rubble and brambles on the new bit. while he was there I had him dig a test hole about 4ft deep. after 18ins of top soil we are on clay here. My test hole was holding water from day one and over the last two months has gradually filled with the persistent rain we have had and is now full to the brim so I am taking it that if we excavate the pond and compact the clay that is there is will naturally hold water once full.

few questions;
1. has anyone else carried out similar works and how did it go?
2. my understanding of planning laws is that because it is not a change of use, i.e. I am not making it a dayticket fishery or boating lake, it is just a feature of my garden I dont need planning permission. Does anyone have experience in this?
3. when the time comes does anyone want a load of clay free...collection only!!!! haha!

Any advice appreciated.

[bazzais]

If the land is 'accommodation land' or connected to the house ie  within the curtilage of your house or garden you wont need planning - but if the field has agricultural status - normally you will.

There is a good chance it may stay full - but dont forget its been raining lots and unless there is water going into it in the summer - it will evaporate in weeks.

Ta

Barry

[ryaldinhio]

thanks for the reply barry.

the land is just a big garden so not agricultural land, also it is part of my garden not a seperate field.

I was going to do the pond with margins and bays at about 2 feet and plant lillies and reeds, then do a deeper section around 4ft to try and contain the plants to the 2ft deep bit. Possibly an island and a deeper hole about 6ft. There will be a fair bit of water, will it really evaporate that fast?

[stufe35]

I have done similar, I have routed all my roof drainage into the pond, and then an overflow  from the pond which leads back to the original drain.  Works fine.

[bazzais]

Our pond is not a natural one and we have a clay based sub structure however its dry as a bone clay - no-mater how much rain - dig a foot down and its dry as a bone. But it does hold water - it must do cos all the rain stays on the surface and races downhill and makes driving anywhere impossible other than by quad bike and even thats tough with surface water.

The pond is about 10 M x 10 M in the winter and about 6 foot deep and overflows - in the summer it shrinks to about 7m x 7M and about 3 foot deep with no sign of any water coming in (however there must be a small spring entering it as the old water pump house is just below the pond in a secondary silted area below.

When I first moved here we dug all the silt out as it only used to be about a foot deep and 10 m x 10m all year.  (hell of alot of sludge!!)

For three years it only held water in the winter until leave rubbish and muddy runoff gave the pond its muddy liner and a bit of growth. So the problem was prob not alot of evaporation but water running away.  Also maybe the plant growth also helped by shading areas?

I also have another pond up the top field - which gravity feeds water to top fields during winter and late spring (into early summer sometimes) - its only 3m x 2m 3 foot deep and right on the top of a cliff probably only another 100 acres above it, no sign of a spring just catching rainfall and surface drainage - and thats getting better every year too with water retention.

I think its worth a go - I love ponds

[Fleecewife]

How much evaporation there is will depend on the surface area.  How much as a proportion of the total volume will be.....haha, I'm no good at maths, but I'm sure there's a formula somewhere.

We have two small ponds, one is in the flower garden and is lined with butyl but leaks.  It was completed about 3 years ago and was rapidly colonised by some very interesting wee beasties - once we found a tiddler sized fish - no idea how it got there, but the dragon larvae soon had it.
The second is smaller and in the orchard.  It was built for the ducks but we have none now.  It is lined with concrete as we are on very free draining soil.  Both are topped up all the time by water collected on a large barn roof.  Not only does this keep the water level up, except in long dry spells, but it also keeps a degree of through flush which helps both the water quality and the oxygenation.  In spite of the concrete liner, this one is very much a wildlife pond, and includes some long tuft grass and plants left wild and shaggy around the edges for insects and ground bees.  I agree with Bazzais - you need to see your pond in a number of summers as well as the winter, to know how low the level will get.
Your proposed depths sound great - something for every type of water plant and to keep the fish from freezing in the cold, and the water from getting too hot in the summer.

I'm all for wildlife ponds - they give so much pleasure and are a huge boost for all sorts of wildlife, including non-aquatics.

Sorry - I know nothing about planning requirements, although I think they tend to vary a bit from area to another.  Our planning dept seems to leave us alone.

[The Woodsiders]

I have a Wildlife Pond in my field, if anyone would like it they can take it away for free, it measures about 38m x 30m about 2 m deep and is the biggest bain of my life, we have had to dig a drainage ditch to take the surplus away to the woods, it was there when we moved in and why anyone would want one that size is beyond me (although its everyones choice to do what they want with there land) sorry bit of a rant over

[Fleecewife]

Apart from having to dig the drainage ditch, why is it the bane of your life Woodsiders?

[bungalow Bill]

I have experience with  your questions.

1. Yes I have created a wild life pond with land conditions same as yours. Mine is about 1m deep and approx. 25m x 25m. I left a small island in the middle with a view to keeping duck at some point. I fill it by collecting all the rain water from the roofs of my home and large garage. (environmentally friendly) It fills in the winter, but the level drops during the summer to about half that of the winter. I plan to apply clay to the upper soil elevations to prevent seepage during the dry months. You will need to shape the pond providing different levels for plants and a gentle slopes to allow wild life to escape drowning. Stock the pond with plenty of plants to prevent algae growth. If you get algae growth throw in some barley straw.

2. I recently had a letter from the council planners advising me I was in breach of planning consent. (curtsey of a complaint from a neighbor) Yes digging a hole on your land will be considered Engineering works. I have previously given advice on how to deal with planners so I wont go into it here. I am required to apply for retrospective planning permission.

Free to a good home, unwanted neighbors. New owner to collect.

[edstrong]

Hi, I'm also planning a pond, probably about 6 m x 3 m. The ground is about 3 foot of soil then clay. I'm planning on buying a good quality thick butyl liner and to prepare the ground beneath it to be as stone free as possible. Will it be necessary or advisable to put a liner protector underneath the liner?

[bazzais]

I got asked to remove my top pond - cos it was not 'in-keeping' of the natural environment.

Told them to take action through the courts and stop bothering me with b*****ks.  Never heard a peep out of them after.

If making a small pond to water your animals is not in 'keeping' then what is?

I should have ploughed it over - rented the fields out and sat on the muddy subsidy?  No I want to work my land thanks.

[ryaldinhio]

I have experience with  your questions.

1. Yes I have created a wild life pond with land conditions same as yours. Mine is about 1m deep and approx. 25m x 25m. I left a small island in the middle with a view to keeping duck at some point. I fill it by collecting all the rain water from the roofs of my home and large garage. (environmentally friendly) It fills in the winter, but the level drops during the summer to about half that of the winter. I plan to apply clay to the upper soil elevations to prevent seepage during the dry months. You will need to shape the pond providing different levels for plants and a gentle slopes to allow wild life to escape drowning. Stock the pond with plenty of plants to prevent algae growth. If you get algae growth throw in some barley straw.

2. I recently had a letter from the council planners advising me I was in breach of planning consent. (curtsey of a complaint from a neighbor) Yes digging a hole on your land will be considered Engineering works. I have previously given advice on how to deal with planners so I wont go into it here. I am required to apply for retrospective planning permission.

Free to a good home, unwanted neighbors. New owner to collect.

Hi Bill,

Bit confused as to the councils response, i.e. retrospective planning for an engineering process. This would require calcs...hkw can you do that if its full of water?!

with regards losing water in summer do you think most of what you are losing is through seepage then? I had planned on doing what you are talking about from the start, i.e. banking the clay up where the more porous matter is.

I am of the thinking now that I will leave my test hole, which is full, all summer and see how it behaves with regards holding water then with a view to digging out next autumn ready to collect the winter rain.

[ramon]

I  have a wildlife pond, about 100m x 50m, also the bain of my life and free to anyone in need.
Amphibian paradise but very high maintainance.

[farmers wife]

Planning is not to be confused with building control and will not ask for calcs.  Usually a phone call will suffice.  However if the pond is close to say a retaining wall, canal bank or anything that could affect structure then it may incur technical questions etc.  For a pond in the middle of say flat land thats not huge I cant see how they would turn it down. 


Therefore basic plans and sizes should suffice and receive a letter (must keep).  It would be a good idea to speak to the environment (nature) dept of council and ask them for spec and I am sure they will be happy to supply sketches then speak to planning which could smooth thing over.  You could provide evidence that no gas pipes, drainage or other services are affected.

[bungalow Bill]

Regarding planning for my pond. I recently received a letter from the planners withdrawing their requirement for retrospective planning. Apparently the pond does not inconvenience the community services, or something similar. So, no paper work.