Hiya, If your circuit goes through the hot water tank before the rads, then you need to plumb the extra heat leak radiator(s) in in parallel with the hot water tank.
So, if I've understood you correctly, your current system looks something like this:

If that's correct, you need to connect the additional heat leak radiator(s) in parallel so that the hot offtake is between the stove and the hot water cylinder. The return from the heat leak radiator then connects into the existing cold return to the boiler either before or after the pump, depending on what layout works best for you. The key thing is that there should be no restriction in flow to the heat leak, since the driving force for flow is very small.

In this setup, the lines in bold would ideally be 28mm, though if the overall distances are small, you might get away with 22mm?
For the system you've described, it might be worth wiring the heat leak zone valve in with a high temperature pipe thermostat before the hot water cylinder. This would dump heat to stop the cylinder from getting too hot if you got a bit enthusiastic with firing up the stove. That said, if you've not had that problem to date, it might not be worth losing sleep over?
Overall, it's hard to say without seeing the system, and you'd be well advised to get a professional in to have a look if you can find somebody you can trust. At the end of the day, any advice received over the internet (especially from me) is worth exactly what you paid for it, so do be careful

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Hope that helps!
Womble.