[PipKelpy]

Had a spot check EA, all well except above.

Apparently the fuel tank needs taps/pipes in bund, were his words.

So ideas folks, how? He did say doesn't need to be fancy, just the pipe needs to be in "something" in case it leaked as does the tap and it's surround (apparently the dry bucket shoved in at an angle is no longer suitable!)

On the plus side, no clamp silage, no slurry pits, no mass poultry, being little, the visit was a flying one!

[chrismahon]

Last place I worked had have a wall with a sand infill around the tank to contain leakage. A joke really as all it did was retain rainwater. I think they mean an absorbent wrap and we have used the stuff they sell for condensation window drip strip. So if it does catch a leak what do you do with it?

[Womble]

What did he mean by "tap"?  As in a valve for isolating the flow?

[PipKelpy]

What did he mean by "tap"?  As in a valve for isolating the flow?

No, it's a verticle round tank with the lever on the bottom to open the tap, fuel goes through pipe to nozzle which I squeeze and shove in tractor.

He said that its "just in case there is a leak" so that the part of the tank at the bottom  where the lever is, should a leak happen, it's contained and doesn't go into the ground. Also that the pipe and nozzle needs to be in this same containment. Said that some use half IBC's to cover.

I get what has to be done it's just I can't quite figure out how to do it.

[Womble]

Best practice is to not have a single point of failure (e.g. the tap), and to have something to catch leaks around the joints for instance.

If you can't put an end cap on the hose, how long is the hose itself?  Could you rig something up so that it's stored with the end above the oil level in the tank, because that would achieve the same thing.

[PipKelpy]

Best practice is to not have a single point of failure (e.g. the tap), and to have something to catch leaks around the joints for instance.

If you can't put an end cap on the hose, how long is the hose itself?  Could you rig something up so that it's stored with the end above the oil level in the tank, because that would achieve the same thing.

I think that's why he said about half IBC to catch/cover. The tank sits on a solid stand and is high so fuel empties via gravity. I'm going to pick dad's brains, he's here today and he likes a challenge!

I have priced up a new tank, though now they are called "fuel stations", problem is 1300l is around £1400 + vat. For what we use, I can't justify it (if someone else pays, that's different, but my cash I have it planned for animals, vet fees, feeding, disasters etc) so a tank AND shifting ours, removing the fuel and putting it into new tank ..... Quite a bit more!

There's always something!

- We did get some 20l Jerry cans a few years ago and were nipping to the garage as and when but then it was where to store them and there is only one garage who sold red diesel by the pump, despite there being 4 in the area!

[Womble]

Good luck!  Post some photos if you like - I do this stuff for a living (well, usually a few thousand times bigger, but it's the same thing), and am happy to help if needby.

[PipKelpy]

Good luck!  Post some photos if you like - I do this stuff for a living (well, usually a few thousand times bigger, but it's the same thing), and am happy to help if needby.

Well, dad's challenge went down flat! His suggestion, a 22.kg superlyx container and gaffer tape holding a plastic bag , no, he wasn't joking!

When I told him this was the Environment Agency, I got a blank look off him!

Even suggested moving our tank into the hay bay next to some hay.

I have found a plastic in metal tank which is cheaper than the plastic bunded  ones but it's got to be kept under cover. We do have somewhere, but it would take hard-core to level it out meaning it would be just as cheap to buy a fuel station!

Going to have to keep thinking......

[PipKelpy]

So far am thinking wheelie bin, ratchet straps, bungee cords, wooden frame, padlock!