Author Topic: Does my coop need to be rat proof?  (Read 8379 times)

HesterF

  • Joined Jul 2012
  • Kent
  • HesterF
Re: Does my coop need to be rat proof?
« Reply #15 on: February 19, 2015, 07:16:17 pm »
I'll measure the only perch routinely used by my chickens tomorrow but I'd guess it would sit just above the top of your nest box level (18 inches?). But as I say, it really depends which breeds you will have. I have Orpingtons which are big, heavy birds so they don't like to go up and are likely to get injured coming down again if the perch is too high.

congo181

  • Joined Oct 2014
  • Near Maidstone, Kent
Re: Does my coop need to be rat proof?
« Reply #16 on: February 19, 2015, 07:30:15 pm »
We have seen this website which isn't too far for us to go, and to be honest they all look nice to us :-)
http://www.chickensforsaleinkent.com/

I like ll of them really apart from the BBF, but thats purely down to aesthetics.

We are a family of 3, but we are thinking of starting out with 3 or 4 hens, predominantly for eggs only.
We want to free range them if we can.

HesterF

  • Joined Jul 2012
  • Kent
  • HesterF
Re: Does my coop need to be rat proof?
« Reply #17 on: February 19, 2015, 09:47:24 pm »
Yep, they're all hybrids so they will probably be fine with the higher perch (none of them are meat birds - all bred for laying). I think they're a bit confused because they've said Light Sussex (a pure breed) is the same as Sussex Star (which is actually a Light Sussex/Rhode Island Red hybrid) and they say Cream Legbar (a pure breed) is the same as Skyline (which has Cream Legbar in it but is a hybrid). But the pictures look pretty - I would go and visit to be absolutely sure. They don't mention whether they actually breed them there (that I could see) so ask to see the parent stock and go with your gut instinct. I know there are some hybrid breeders in Kent that have a bad reputation but I don't know who they are, I'm afraid. Just be sure that you're comfortable with how they look after their birds - you want to be sure you have healthy birds from the start.

The only real difference, as I understand it, between hybrids and pure breeds is that pure breeds breed true i.e. the offspring will have the same appearance and characteristics as the parents. But hybrids have been developed to be particularly good in something specific - whether it be egg laying or meat (or fighting but that's a different discussion!). The egg layers tend to be fab for two or three years and then tail off quite fast. Commercial egg producers keep their birds for 18 months and then cull or sell on. So just be prepared that in a couple of years, you need to get more birds in and consider what you'll do with the older birds. I believe hybrids have a lower life expectancy so that, in a way, helps - but they can have more health problems too.

Three or four will certainly produce enough eggs for your family and I'm sure they'll be more than happy free ranging if you can keep predators at bay!

HesterF

  • Joined Jul 2012
  • Kent
  • HesterF
Re: Does my coop need to be rat proof?
« Reply #18 on: February 19, 2015, 09:49:39 pm »
Oh, only other thing is they're vaccinated against everything and anything. Good for them but might be hard to mix with unvaccinated birds later - it means they can carry diseases that they won't die from but mightl kill other birds that are introduced to the flock.

 

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