Smallholders Insurance from Greenlands

Author Topic: Worming sheep  (Read 2946 times)

Black Sheep

  • Joined Sep 2015
  • Briercliffe
    • Monk Hall Farm
Worming sheep
« on: January 27, 2018, 06:39:26 pm »
So I'm working on my flock health plan (thanks for all the information I've culled from here, especially [member=2128]Womble[/member], [member=27063]Marches Farmer[/member] and [member=146945]crobertson[/member]) and am finding the construction of an approach to worm control mind-bending! I've read the SCOPS guideline linked on here recently and the general principles are fine but it seems to lack specifics - which I appreciate as every farm's situation is different.

Our position is as follows:

  • We're on north-facing slopes at around 900 feet in the North West so it is often wet.
  • We have six in-lamb (hopefully) 2-3 year old Hebridean ewes but intend to slowly grow the numbers in time.
  • We have three large fields (roughly 5, 4 and 3 acres) so without a lot of fencing (and I'm having to get enough of that done already) our ability to rotate is limited and paddock grazing isn't feasible. We may also be able to get some cattle grazing at times from the local farmer but want to limit this to periods when they won't trash the ground too much - which may be limited given the amount of rainfall.
  • The land hasn't had sheep (apart from perhaps the odd escapee for a few days here and there) gazing on it for several years.
  • Assume no more incomers to avoid getting sidetracked into quarantine management.
Based on my limited understanding this is what I'm thinking of for this year and the questions that occur to me:

1. All fields should be low risk as not grazed by sheep for several years, until we put our 6 out in January, so a very low stocking density and thus should not have passed many worm eggs to create potential infectivity.

2. Nematodirus shouldn’t be an issue as no lambs last year (or several before). So even if the forecast is high I shouldn't need to do anything as there shouldn't be any larval stages present to infect our lambs.

3. Given the low infectivity of the pasture is there any value in treating the ewes at turn out after lambing?  They will have a periparturient rise, but if I worm them will I just increase the risk of the eggs that they pass being resistant types, which combined with a presumed low in refugia population, will just increase the risk of resistant worms on my pasture. Would I be better treating based on FEC or just treating those in poorer condition?

4. FEC lambs every 4 weeks after turn out and respond if results, or symptoms, dictate. This will help detect any issues arising from potentially not worming the ewes at turn out. How long would you continue monthly FECs before reverting to the plan adopted for the rest of the flock?

5. How often would you FEC the ewes in this period?

6. No pre-tupping treatment for the ewes unless lean or clinically affected.

7. Obviously next year will be a different kettle of fish and need changed plans. One particular question is that as we intend to keep our lambs until 15-18 months old what worming strategy should I employ for them - they won't get a turn out dose as they won't have been pregnant.

The options for reducing potential spread of resistance seem to be either leaving 10% untreated or staying on the same pasture for a period after worming. Given that the latter is unclear regarding how long to stay for (SCOPS says 4-7 days for very susceptible sheep on highly infected pasture - I hopefully won't have highly infected pasture and most of my sheep won't be very susceptible as they are older than a year - i.e the time needs to be longer) and some wormers can make this period 5 weeks or more, I think I'll try and use more of the former strategy.

I then need a similar plan for fluke but want to keep that for a different discussion on a different day!.

So, are my interpretations, assumptions and suggested plans reasonable? All thoughts welcome and appreciated.

twizzel

  • Joined Apr 2012
Re: Worming sheep
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2018, 08:06:54 pm »
If I read correctly I would be very wary about letting cattle onto your ground to graze, you don’t say what TB risk area you’re in but you could end up with cattle failing a pre movement test and being stuck on your land.


You can section fields and rotate pasture with electric fence relatively easily but with only 6 primitive ewes on 12 acres you may not see much benefit to it... it would be more beneficial to shut off half of it off and take a cut of hay which will also help with any worm build up on pasture. We will worm this year with Cydectin 2% as it is a persistent wormer. Did you quarantine worm the ewes before they were turned out on the fields when they first arrived? If not they could have brought resistant worms with them.


Don’t forget fluke treatments too, not sure if you’re area is high risk for fluke but we are... I treat for fluke (not worms) pre tupping, at scanning and again at lambing.

pharnorth

  • Joined Nov 2013
  • Cambridgeshire
Re: Worming sheep
« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2018, 08:41:43 pm »
With just 6 sheep you could FEC each one individually (easier if you are bringing them in to lamb and pen separately) and take it from there on what is needed for this year.  SCOPS and other advice is aimed at larger flocks/ higher densities and essentially uses sampling and probability to manage flock risk, whilst the biology is the same the risk equation is rather different. I agree with twizzel, a hay crop on at least half your holding would reduce worm risk and give you a useful product.

Backinwellies

  • Global Moderator
  • Joined Sep 2012
  • Llandeilo Carmarthenshire
    • Nantygroes
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Re: Worming sheep
« Reply #3 on: January 28, 2018, 08:15:39 am »
Assuming ewes were wormed with anything other than a white wormer when they arrived and there has been no sheep on your pasture and the size of your 'paddocks'  I wouldn't think you would need to worm at all in first year (maybe FEC lambs once or twice if you would feel happier).     I agree with the hay/silage/haylage advise. and have fields topped to sheep grazing height when needed as sheep will 'mess' and grow slower on longer grass if you cant electric fence smaller paddocks.

If in a fluke area then assume fluke are there and treat (but beware resistance to Fasinex and other flukicides with same ingredient.)  With just 6  ask if vet will dispense enough for them .... or ask neighbouring Farmer (but be aware some Farmers are less aware of storage requirements, and some always use worm/fluke combined treatments despite resistance warnings)
Linda

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bj_cardiff

  • Joined Feb 2017
  • Carmarthenshire
Re: Worming sheep
« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2018, 07:18:08 am »
I only worm Ewes about a month before lambing and then as they lamb. If their slow to pick up after weaning the odd ewe might get another dose? That's it, the Rams I've never wormed. Its normal for sheep to carry a small worm burden.


Black Sheep

  • Joined Sep 2015
  • Briercliffe
    • Monk Hall Farm
Re: Worming sheep
« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2018, 09:44:45 pm »
Thank you for the thoughtful replies.

[member=25072]twizzel[/member] - we're in a low risk area for bovine TB and the cattle are from the adjoining farm. Would a positive test stop them moving back through the gate? If so it's something I can cover in the grazing agreement we'll have - that all TB tests need to take place when the cattle are off our land.

You mention using moveable electric fence, but I thought this was a no-no for horned sheep?

Two of the fields have been cut for silage (little chance for hay up here!) in recent years so I will definitely be aiming to continue to use some of the land for that, like you say it may help reduce risk a bit. The only practical issue is that I have to close a field or not (given that I didn't think you could use electric fence with horned sheep).

[member=30154]pharnorth[/member] [member=26580]Backinwellies[/member] - that's really helpful and reassuring that I'm on the right lines with not needing to do too much the first year and just FEC occasionally to see. I think I'll FEC when they come in for lambing and go from there.

Yes, agree that with such light grazing pressure I'll need to top from time to time - hopefully by closing off some of the land this will reduce the frequency a bit. The smaller field is in higher level stewardship to regenerate the upland hay meadow so will be left to grow and set seed.

The neighbouring farmer has said he's not had much issue with fluke although the land is wet in places. The vet also suggested just seeing what the carcasses look like and otherwise only fluking if there seem to be symptoms. That they are both independently saying the same thing is reassuring.

SallyintNorth

  • Joined Feb 2011
  • Cornwall
  • Rarely short of an opinion but I mean well
    • Trelay Cohousing Community
Re: Worming sheep
« Reply #6 on: January 29, 2018, 11:11:36 pm »

You mention using moveable electric fence, but I thought this was a no-no for horned sheep?


It's the electric mesh fencing you can't use with horned sheep.  Two or three strands of tape or wire will be fine.  I prefer the flat tape myself, it's more visible.
Don't listen to the money men - they know the price of everything and the value of nothing

Live in a cohousing community with small farm for our own use.  Dairy cows (rearing their own calves for beef), pigs, sheep for meat and fleece, ducks and hens for eggs, veg and fruit growing

twizzel

  • Joined Apr 2012
Re: Worming sheep
« Reply #7 on: January 30, 2018, 07:45:40 am »
It would be worth talking to your local animal health department about the Tb testing. We are high risk here in the south west testing every 12 months. Any cow moving off a holding must pass a pre movement test within the last 60 days, you can’t just stipulate it can’t be done on your land and has to be done when they get home. I’m not sure about low risk areas and pre movement testing but it’s something to investigate further. Whereas tack sheep grazing for winter is relatively straight forward, bringing cattle to graze can open up a whole can of worms on the TB side of things, they also require more robust fencing and are quite picky grazers compared to sheep. Also moving cattle on will put your holding on a movement standstill for 6 days, so just be aware of that too.

Black Sheep

  • Joined Sep 2015
  • Briercliffe
    • Monk Hall Farm
Re: Worming sheep
« Reply #8 on: February 01, 2018, 09:07:16 pm »
[member=25072]twizzel[/member] Thanks for that, I will check locally.

[member=10673]SallyintNorth[/member] That's very helpful, I've obviously misread somewhere. Being able to use some temporary strands will be very helpful to avoid selective grazing of larger fields.

So, I've got a better idea for a worming approach for the year but I'm not sure about fluke treatment. Every example I look at seems to suggest treatment in different months. I've got examples from people on the forum, the vet and the AHDB Flock Calender:

Example 1: January, April, October
Example 2: January, August
Example 3: January, October, December
Example 4: January, September, October
Example 5: September, October, November

Is there any logical basis for when to do this that I can apply to my circumstances?

SallyintNorth

  • Joined Feb 2011
  • Cornwall
  • Rarely short of an opinion but I mean well
    • Trelay Cohousing Community
Re: Worming sheep
« Reply #9 on: February 01, 2018, 11:58:37 pm »
Fluke has a complex lifecycle and its treatment regime varies according to locale and weather.  Where I was in the north of England, the 'usual' regime was treat sheep every 6-8 weeks from October through March. but if you didn't read your vet's newsletters or have other inputs to tell you, you'd lose sheep to fluke over the summer in some years.  And not just wet summers - it could be a dry, sunny summer, but the conditions over the previous summer and the winter and spring caused fluke to be active through the summer.

So ask your vet for a standard regime to put in your flock health plan, and keep reading the NADIS parasite forecasts and any other reliable input you can find - ask your vet if they have a newsletter they send to their farm customer you can receive, for instance. 
Don't listen to the money men - they know the price of everything and the value of nothing

Live in a cohousing community with small farm for our own use.  Dairy cows (rearing their own calves for beef), pigs, sheep for meat and fleece, ducks and hens for eggs, veg and fruit growing

Black Sheep

  • Joined Sep 2015
  • Briercliffe
    • Monk Hall Farm
Re: Worming sheep
« Reply #10 on: February 03, 2018, 07:52:07 pm »
Had a helpful chat with the vet on Friday in response to the queries I sent them. That gave me a bit more of a basis for the differences in regimes and a rationale for "the usual schedule", plus an understanding of circumstances where I might need to do things differently.

In case it is useful to others the answers I got to the questions in the original post were:

1. Correct.
2. Probably correct.
3. FEC the ewes when brought in and treat at turn out (if needed) based on those results but if possible look to avoid treatment so can build up an in refugia population that isn't resistant.
4. Probably too frequent. Suggested to FEC later in the season / symptomatic treatment this year.
5. When brought in for lambing and again later in the season.
6. Yes.
7. Yes - go off forecasts and symptoms.

Again, in case it is helpful to anyone else I've attached the flock health plan I've arrived at for now. It will develop over time I'm sure, but is hopefully a good start.

Thanks to all those that have offered advice in the thread.

 

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