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Author Topic: Hive plans  (Read 2200 times)

Bramham Wiltshire Horns

  • Joined Oct 2014
  • leeds
  • Bramham flock Wiltshire Horns
Hive plans
« on: April 02, 2017, 12:13:30 am »
Can anyone recommend a good hive plan
I'm slightly better than novice at D.I.Y
Thanks
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NewToThis

  • Joined Jan 2015
Re: Hive plans
« Reply #1 on: April 02, 2017, 09:13:55 pm »
Some useful plans in the DIY section in the following link - with feedback/corrections from users building them:

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=20

I've gone for 14x12s myself - though decided to buy in rather than build in the end

Bramham Wiltshire Horns

  • Joined Oct 2014
  • leeds
  • Bramham flock Wiltshire Horns
Re: Hive plans
« Reply #2 on: April 02, 2017, 09:30:35 pm »
Thank you
I will have a look through them

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cloddopper

  • Joined Jun 2013
  • South Wales .Carmarthenshire. SA18
Re: Hive plans
« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2017, 11:11:25 pm »
Before you start decide whether they will be top bee space or bottom bee space . Then mark you plans accordingly in red ink .
You'd not be the first person who made a cock-up & produced parts for both methods & only found out about it when you played with building the hives up . ( Guess how I know ?  :innocent:  )

 Bottom bee space is supposed to lay you open to less chance of squashing the queen when reassembling the hive , plus it's marginally easier manipulating the frames ( apparently) .
 

 If you like you can make a heavy crown board out of 3/4 marine ply & put 3" side walls on it ( don't forget the bottom bee space lip or routed in on the side walls  .
 Using dovetail joints  & a waterproof glue as well as stainless steel screws should see it stay solid & water proof fir a good 10 years if you also give them several coats of bee friendly waterproof varnish .
On my first ten crown board feeder trays I used rubberised bitumen to seal them as I had a 20 litre drum of it .   That was a very BIG MISTAKE !  The rubber was just about the best glue man ever made for about 15 months  till it fully cured & dried off . They were un-useable till then .  :(

 To get the bees up to & back down from the syrup feed :-

In the middle of the crown board glue & screw in a 2 "x 2" x 2 &  1/8"  high  block of rough cut wood  & when the glue is set  bore it out down the middle right through the crown board too . 

This not only makes a nice heavy crown board it means you can fill the tray in the top with syrup feed a gallon at a time from a plastic watering can .
 or
If you have a lot of hives like I had ,  12 volt pump it in from a 310 litre  barrel with battery power supply mounted on a trailer .

 Doing it like this with crown feeders & a syrup watering can or a pump set up means you're  not upsetting the bees if you're feeding them in inclement weather or at night in the dark after work .

 It also helps curb robbing so long as your lids are sturdy & well fitting  .

 If your skills are up to it ...frames dimensions on this site :-

dummies.com/home-garden/hobby-farming/beekeeping/cut-list-for-british-national-hive-deep-and-shallow-frames/
« Last Edit: April 03, 2017, 11:24:49 pm by cloddopper »
Strong belief , triggers the mind to find the way ... Dyslexia just makes it that bit more amusing & interesting

 

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