Author Topic: Worming & fresh pasture (Read 4820 times)

Barcud · « **on:** February 28, 2010, 09:25:15 am »

Just after some views on worming sheep before moving to new pasture.
Do you worm and then move after 24hrs or so, worm and hold on hardstanding etc and then move, or worm and move to new pasture straight away?
I've heard opinions for and against for each $:-\$
Mike

ScotsGirl · « **Reply #1 on:** February 28, 2010, 03:05:53 pm »

Hi

Well if you can find an expert/vet who will give you a definitive answer then lucky you. Definitely worm and hold for 24-48 hours before moving otherwise the worms will come out in new pasture.

View now is to worm only as and when required as worms are becoming resistant to chemicals. What you don't know is the worm burden on new pasture. You can do a worm count now to give you an idea what action should be taken. My vet charges approx £16 and the result is usually phoned through on the same day depending when you take sample in. They can't do fluke as this is complex and goes to a lab for screening.

Deb

supplies for smallholders · « **Reply #2 on:** February 28, 2010, 05:04:28 pm »

Hi,

Agree with scots girl - but also important is to strip graze to prevent a buildup of any worms on the same piece of pasture.

Thanks

Gareth
www.suppliesforsmallholders.co.uk

Barcud · « **Reply #3 on:** February 28, 2010, 08:52:06 pm »

I've been given the couter opinion by my vet, that you should worm and then move straight to new pasture, otherwise you get high numbers of resistant worms being shed on your new pasture!
Mike

Rosemary · « **Reply #4 on:** February 28, 2010, 09:31:37 pm »

Westgate Labs do testing for 9.99 including fluke.

ScotsGirl · « **Reply #5 on:** February 28, 2010, 09:38:14 pm »

Wow that sounds like a good deal, do they have a kit available or do you just send a bag off? Pity the postie if it bursts!

I was typing a reply when this post was added so I have to start again!

Might be worth clarifying with the vet as it takes at least 24 hours for worms to be shifted by wormer so if you move straight away you will take them with you and the idea is to leave them behind!

I am worming my ewes as they lamb thereby keeping worms inside shed and moved straight to muckheap. As I only have 2-3 acres I need to keep an eye on things but until now have had no need to worm as levels low and sheep clean.

Hellybee · « **Reply #6 on:** March 01, 2010, 03:01:10 am »

Ours are due to be moving on soonish, think we will be folowing the above advice, put them on clean, keep the ground sweet....ooooo spring grass come on down...or up as the case may be lol

Ours are been held up near the house on grass, a field that will be used no doubt for the others due to lamb after the first lot of ewes and lambs move on, then it will be rested and used for camping from late april onwards i wouldve thought.so no sheep there til next years lambing.

Rosemary · « **Reply #7 on:** March 01, 2010, 08:51:14 am »

Westgate do a kit for 9.99 or there abouts. Comes with a little box, label, envelope and glove!

Barcud · « **Reply #8 on:** March 01, 2010, 10:01:45 pm »

Quote from: ScotsGirl on February 28, 2010, 09:38:14 pm

Might be worth clarifying with the vet as it takes at least 24 hours for worms to be shifted by wormer so if you move straight away you will take them with you and the idea is to leave them behind!

I think the vets reasoning is that if you worm and hold before moving to fresh pasture, what the animal takes with them will be those worms resistant to the wormer. You then have sheep grazing land with only resistant worms on it ......
by worming and moving straight away, you reduce the overall burden, without selecting for resisant worms. If you get my drift.

We are worming in the shed at the moment after they've lambed, but before they go out onto grass, as you are doing. Just interested in what others are doing.

Mike