Author Topic: Sharpening garden tools (Read 3930 times)

r+lchick · « **on:** October 30, 2009, 09:21:42 am »

Has anyone come across a book or a course on how to sharpen up garden tools, the non electric type? We all have a great many tools but have not come across anything on the care and management of garden tools. I don't mean tractors. I want to sharpen up my hedge cutters and tree loppers. Any suggestions out there? Ros

HappyHippy · « **Reply #1 on:** October 30, 2009, 12:29:52 pm »

Just hang on for Rustyme - he's your man for that kind of stuff

I'm sure he'll be along soon.................................

Alternatively - Gardeners world featured a bit on it on the last programme - check out BBCi player.

RUSTYME · « **Reply #2 on:** October 30, 2009, 01:47:39 pm »

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJMGNOGojZk&feature=channel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgD2O6yj7yM

I think these are what you are after sharpening ?. The bloke on the clip knows far more than me about it , and explains pretty well what needs to be done . The only thing is , he uses a thin grinding disk on a bench grinder.
You don't need to have one of those . An ordinary sharpening stone will do the job if the tools don't need to much of a sharpen . If they are very blunt , run a flat file over them first . You may need a vice to hold the blade in , but just stroke the file along the blade carefully , from centre to tip , keeping the same 'original' angle that was on the blade. Make sure you keep that same angle each time you run the file across the blade .
The best way to learn is try it on an old rubbish tool first , just so you get the hang of things . The hedge/branch loppers are self explanatory once you have watched the video . You may just be using file instead though . For the curved bit of the loppers you may need a half round file to get the edge clean .
Most tools can be kept well sharpened, with just one or two files and/or a sharpening stone . Should cost about £5 or so the lot , and they will last for years ...
For garden spades and forks , clean off as much mud as possible , wipe them dry and then have a bucket full of builders sand , into which you have poured some old car engine oil . Looks horrible , but if you push the spade (working end ) into the sand a few times, after each time you finish with it , it will not only keep a good edge on it but also coat it in oil . This means you never end up with a rusty old spade/fork whatever. The bucket of sand will last almost forever , just an occasional top up required.
For scythes and sickles you will need a round sharpening stone (cost about £1) . The same rule applies , just follow CAREFULLY the original angle on the cutting edge , very easy and once they are sharp , you will only need to give them a light stroke with the stone every now and then as you use them .
Always remember though ....mind your fingers !!! these tools will cut you badly !!

Hope the links helped more than my long winded ramble ....?

Cheers

Russ

Norfolk Newby · « **Reply #3 on:** November 01, 2009, 01:23:20 pm »

YOu can buy small files specifically made for sharpening saws. For carpenter's saws, these are usually triangular in section and with a fairly fine surface. I use my Workmate to hold the blade (between the two wooden 'jaws'). The blade is then held all along and fairly close to the cutting edge so the teeth vibrate less and are held firmly without any damage.

You can also get files which are pieces of metal with diamond powder stuck on their surface. This makes a file which can tackle hardened saw blades (the teeth are heat treated to make them very hard to keep their cutting edge). These saws are very difficult to sharpen with a normal file but if you can get a similar diamond file, you can resharpen them fairly easily. I even use mine to put an edge on drill tips this way. You only need to give a drill a couple of strokes to give it a good cutting edge to make a hole in steel.

Don't use the diamond files to grind metal to create an edge. The diamond surface will be lost. Just use them to give the final polish.

I also use a sanding disc on my spade to get a better edge on the bottom if I am digging where there are a lot of roots from bushes and small trees. It really makes the job a lot easier.

NN