They are very easy to trap using cage traps and fenn traps.
You can buy either at your local farmers merchants.
The cage traps can be baited with tinned cat food.
The fenn traps need to be set in artificial tunnels along side chicken pens and in dry ditches etc. There's a massive diference in size between an otter and the mink,so the size of the hole in the tunnel precludeds otters being caught by mistake.
I despatch any that I catch in a cage trap with an air rifle pellet in the ear.
Now I'm a long way from being an expert at using Fenn traps but I have had some success with them. I have them permanently set around our smallholding.
I have also found them very useful in helping to stop rat infestations getting started and in letting me know that I may have a few around. I tend to use them in conjunction with rat poison, in as much as I have bait stations in use for just about 12 months of the year.
As well as taking rats, Fenns will also account for mink and stoats etc. Fenn traps are what are known as body crush traps. This means that they are designed to crush the body cavity of the animal causing virtually instant death. This is opposed to the now illegal leg hold traps such as the infamous gin trap. You really need the next size up for mink from the Mk 4 but even so, I've had good results with the 4's.
I always have the hope that any feather taking vermin will run through the artificial tunnel that all traps must be set in, before they get to my chickens. There's nothing like being optimistic is there?
They say that a picture paints a thousand words, here are some pictures.
This is a likely spot for setting a trap. Its at the back of one of my chicken sheds which has a little ditch come soak away to take the rain water from the roof. Any visiting vermin would be quite likely to have a quick scoot along what would appear to it to be a natural highway.
Here are three unset Fenns.
Heres one of the simple tunnels that I mentioned earlier. Its against the law to set fenns out in the open.
Here's the inside of the tunnel to give you an idea of its construction.
Heres the Fenn in almost the set position. The jaws have been pressed apart and the safety mechanism is now keeping them open.
A blurred finger showing the safety mechanism.
The foot plate is then set but the safety is still kept on. Note the peg which the trap is anchored to the ground with.
The trap is set in the ditch sideways to the tunnel entrances. Now and only now do you release the safety.
The white wire is my electric fence that i have to keep foxes at bay. It doesn't work for mink, rats or stoats.
The trap is fixed with a peg and the tunnel placed carefully over it. The tunnel prevents non target species from being caught in the trap.
I've placed a couple of strategically placed stone to try and guide my prey towards the tunnel and the waiting trap.
Thats about it then. its not rocket science but do watch your fingers.
Its a good idea to scratch the ground up infront of both ends of the tunnel. Members of the weasel family are very inquisitive and this is often enough to rouse their curiosity. I hope that this has been of help.