Re.rhubarb, I think there's a cold snap coming so that wouldn't be great. If you're planting a crown, there's a danger it'll just rot in cold, wet soil. If you've got the option, wait until spring - you could always put it in a pot until then (again making sure it doesn't freeze through).
You're right, crop rotation is mostly for annual veg. Strawberries are worth shifting every few years but most soft fruit stays put. The general gist is that you divide into four or five groups. The exact groupings vary a little and there are some veg that you can just plant wherever each year but the general principle is that there are some diseases that will proliferate if you grow the same veg in the same place each year so you want to move than round so the ground gets a change of veg each year. Different crops also take different nutrients and give back different nutrients - so peas and beans fix nitrogen in the soil, for example, so I believe that benefits calabrese to follow them. I've divided mine into four groups - calabrese (cabbages, broccoli, Brussels, cauliflower), legumes (peas and the various beans), root veg (carrots, beetroot, parsnip and I have onions, garlic and leeks in that group too) and the 'fruit' (slightly random group with tomatoes, potatoes and sweetcorn, did have courgettes but I've moved them to the pumpkin patch now). I then bung in salad stuff wherever I end up with a space.
It's definitely worth reading around a bit and seeing how others arrange their veg beds because it'll give you some ideas about how to arrange your plants. Some work with small blocks, some with rows. There are also benefits of companion planting - quite often herbs can help with other plants. I'd spend the next couple of cold months doing that, planning and ordering your seeds and then you'll be all ready to kick off in spring.
H