Author Topic: pruning fruit trees (Read 3654 times)

lestansange · « **on:** November 16, 2013, 06:56:41 pm »

Is there anybody living in the DL area handy with the secateurs who could give me some guidance on pruning apple, plum and cherry trees.
Thanks

doganjo · « **Reply #1 on:** November 16, 2013, 07:02:02 pm »

And the same in Central Scotland please?

HesterF · « **Reply #2 on:** November 16, 2013, 11:53:41 pm »

Where is DL? Can really recommend going on a specialist course - I went on a two day weekend course this time last year which was brilliant. I've still a long way to go but it gave me enough confidence to get started.

BTW, you don't want to prune cherry or plum trees (or any other stone fruit) at this time of year - they need to be done when the sap is rising because they can be prone to silverleaf.

H

ellied · « **Reply #3 on:** November 17, 2013, 10:53:17 am »

DL is Darlington, Co. Durham, if you mean postcodes rather than a short for something else name!

Ditto HesterF, don't touch any stone fruit until summer, I made that mistake and lost a very productive Victoria plum to silverleaf.

Since then I've joined the local Orchard Group and got lots of info from them which I follow as far as I can. I should be starting on the apples now since the last fruit is out of reach and I'm on year one of a 3 year pruning plan!

From what I remember so far:

1. Don't do it all in one year, do some over winter and some in summer for apples, over 3 years and keep looking at the overall shape as you go, stand back, wait 6 months if necessary, don't do too much and stress the tree or you lose productivity.

2. Look to create an open centre or goblet shape with the key branches so the light gets to the fruit on the north side equally and you don't let it get damp/dark in the centre area as that encourages moulds and infections.

3. Take out branches that cross and impede access to others, new wood 1/3 to 1/2 the new growth for twiggy bits, and do less rather than more if unsure.

I'm hoping to do a grafting course in February, so will be leaving some til then so I can practise with spare twiggy bits! But apple makes great twigs and logs for the fire, and I'm told the thinner branches are also good perches for chooks..

Lesley Silvester · « **Reply #4 on:** November 17, 2013, 10:37:27 pm »

And goats enjoy the trimmings.

lestansange · « **Reply #5 on:** November 18, 2013, 12:00:02 pm »

Thanks for the helpful advice but really would like a person to show me whats what. Such things as fruit bearing spurs etc. Got all the books but could do with a practical session. Anybody? Co Durham, N Yorks area

Bramblecot · « **Reply #6 on:** November 19, 2013, 11:52:36 am »

How about the RHS gardens at Harrogate, or is that too far?

My

love the prunings - they got the

when they raided the garden and destroyed all my new fruit trees (my fault). The replacement cheap trees from Lidl are doing really well but no idea of varieties.

Marches Farmer · « **Reply #7 on:** November 19, 2013, 12:11:40 pm »

Once full grown drupes (plums, etc.) should need very little pruning - just crossing or damaged branches or ones near enou gh to the ground for sheep or goats to reach them and pull them down.