Author Topic: Worming  (Read 4359 times)

Rosemary

  • Joined Oct 2007
  • Barry, Angus, Scotland
    • The Accidental Smallholder
Worming
« on: August 16, 2009, 11:50:49 am »
I'm moving our ewes (and lambs at some point) into a rented field. It hasn't "officially" been grazed by sheep in eight years but some of the sheep in the next field used to come through before we fixed the fence 5 weeks ago. It's a six acre field and there would have been no more than a dozen lambs on it at any one time, probably over the last three months. It should, therefore, be reasonably worm free, yes?

I thought I woudl worm our sheep before I move them over but what's the timing? I know there's something about letting the wormer work for 24 hours. So should I worm the sheep and leave them on their current grazing for 24 hours OR worm and move immediately? Or something completely different?

Pigs are sooooo easy!

Thanks

hexhammeasure

  • Joined Jun 2008
    • golocal food
    • Facebook
Re: Worming
« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2009, 12:33:25 pm »
bring the sheep into the pens and leave them to stand for a couple of hours to 'empty out'. Then worm to the correct dosage and keep them in-bye for 24 hours before moving.

Having said that lots of people just get on with it and move straight away. so I don't think too many people will be worried about the practicalities
Ian

PuBS

  • Joined Aug 2009
  • National
    • PuBSForum
Re: Worming
« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2009, 01:23:06 pm »
Dont rely on the grazing being worm free either, a cut of hay or silage helps REDUCE worm burdens on pasture but will never eliminate it.
The worst enemy of your sheep is another sheep - lambs are likely to have contaminated the pasture especially if the worming regime of their owner is to the same standard as his fencing.
Nickcordery
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www.pubs.myfunforum.org

 

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