OK, from limited experience but a lot of recent advice from experts, my interpretation is that pruning like a solid goblet is the opposite of what apples need, you want more of a bowl with space in the centre to let light in to the fruit and space for it all to hang. Also, you don't do it all at once, use a 3 year cycle to shape a tree so it has a chance to adjust AND keep producing fruit, otherwise it's recovering instead of producing. Too much foliage in the centre blocks light and warmth and I would say might contribute to the mildew issue tho other problems might be too close to other heavy hedging or dark damp spaces?
The previous description of pruning is better than mine but I'd suggest you leave the outside edges of the trees this year and take out a couple of central pieces, ideally ones that cross others or the centre, not all of it, just make a start. And cut back taller leaders of this year's growth by a third to a half max. Feed with manure and mulch after rain so it's trapping water in the soil rather than dry, and apparently what you put on this winter/spring will feed the following year's fruit not the same year.
The ones back to rootstock can possibly be regrafted, I've not learned that yet but it would be my intention to find out. On its own the rootstock variety won't have the qualities you wanted in the fruit, that's why it's just rootstock, for its size rather than its produce. I've been offered training in grafting by the orchard group secretary who is an expert grafter, but it's too soon yet, early next year. I'll ask him next time I see him if regrafting to the same rootstock again would work or if it's better to start over.