We have done quite a length of mixed hedging since we came here 18 years ago, so now hedges surround our land entirely. We plant a double or triple row of bareroot plants and we do 50 or 100 metres in a go, to keep the cost manageable each year. The bareroots do cost, £1 for 2-4, depending on the species, although if you use the tiniest size they're not bad, certainly better than those grown in RootTrainers.
We use hawthorn (quickthorn) for the outer row, then a mix of 50% hawthorn, hornbeam, beech, hazel, field maple, with the odd holly, rose, rowan, honeysuckle, oak, crab apple, wild cherry and so on mixed in. This gives a lovely tapestry effect and has wildlife value for various birds and critturs.
Initially we tried planting without protecting from sheep and next door's cattle - a total waste of money, time and effort, as even when the plants survived the ravages, they never did well. So now we use double sheep mesh fencing, with the hedge sandwiched between, and the cattle side with an extra top wire so they can't quite reach the plants.
Because we don't use chemicals, we haven't been able to keep the weeds down, but if you are happy to use a weedkiller around the base of your new hedgerow it will establish much more quickly. Where we are it's very windy, wet and cold so it has taken at least 7 years for our hedge plants to get their roots down, then they romp away. Somewhere with a less windy climate would establish much more quickly. If you're on the Outer Isles you will struggle to establish a hedge at all, so gorse is about the best option there.
We grow lots of willow in a series of three parallel windbreaks to protect our polytunnel and coppice, but I wouldn't use them for a march boundary as they are not long-lived, nor would I mix them in with normal hedgerow species as they will dominate initially then die back leaving gaps. Elder does this too.
For us the biggest cost is the fencing, although my OH does all the work, but the materials are costly. We have found that it's not worth skimping on the fences and we put up sturdy stob and mesh fences all around. Animals will still stretch across - it's amazing how long a sheep's neck can be - or push through an electric fence. It is utterly disheartening when the new hedge you've planted and ,lovingly tended disappears overnight when next door's cattle have reached over and pulled the lot out by the roots
For maintenance, you can choose to trim or to lay, or a mixture of both. Laying is to thicken the lower part of the hedge to prevent animals pushing through. You let the plants grow tall, but keep the sides in check, then when the trunks have reached a certain size they are ready to be laid. You only need to lay a hedge once the bottom has started to die out. The rest of the time, keep the hedge pruned, preferably in an 'A' shape to allow the maximum sunlight to reach the bottom. To reach your initial desired height, trim the top every year, but allowing it to be a few inches taller each time - this will keep it dense.
I will try to remember to post some pics of our hedges then and now.
Topic: New hedging project. (Read 8154 times)
