[edandfred]

can any wise heads guide me as to what size tractor would be needed to look after a five acre well drained fairly level field. I only envisage having to run a chain harrow over it in the spring , top it a few times over the year and have sufficient grunt to run a a few implements such as  log splitter, cement mixer, post hole borer etc off the pto.

At the moment I'm looking at a compact but dont want to regret buying it in a couple of years time

Thanks in advance

[Hassle]

Look at the horse power required by the implements, then consider the price and see if you can afford anymore?

[henchard]

Personally if its level land I'd buy something like a second hand MF 35 or 135.


As long as it is in good basic condition, it will do all that you want, go on for ever and should always be worth around what you paid for it. Very simple to service as well.


Many of the cheaper compacts have Chinese components so stick to brands like Kubota if you go down that rout

[Still playing with tractors]

it depends on the size of your impliments and how quickly do you want to do the jobs?

i would either go for an old MF as above, just dont pay too much, if your not in a hurry or look at somthing abit more modern around the 70-75hp mark. always better to have more omph than less and push things. once you have one you will end up with other toys, trust me its addictive

[shygirl]

we considered compact tractors and apparently japenese are quite good but chinese are not so good - or wasit the other way round?
it think it may depend on your land - ours is very hilly and i couldnt see much going up the steep bits, unless it was very big or a quad.

[lachlanandmarcus]

Not sure about post hole borers but we find the things we really need all of our 75hp on our old wee. John Deere for are baler for the hay and our large (10ft) flail mower. Smaller hps tend to struggle with those bits if kit. Topping etc and harrowing no prob with lower hp. We've just got a post hole borer so will let you know how it copes with that. The other thing to consider is whether you will be lifting heavy things, altho a lot of compacts have a front bucket, if you put anything beefy in it the tractor tips up even with weights counterbalancing which can limit their usefulness.


I would endorse the MF suggestion, or a JD (ours is 2030, 1976) - it has the advantage of not being sought after by tractor showing types as its a US company, but the MFs are decent value as there's quite a lot around.


Japanese better than Chinese for compacts but tbh the compacts are no cheaper than a midi sized thing which will run normal size implements which are cheaper and easier to get hold of and to get mended.

[Still playing with tractors]

Yes a 10ft flail and baler (small bales i presume) is a heavy load for 75hp. i use either a 110hp or 130hp for our 3m fail and our round baler soon soaks up our 155hp.........oh you can never have enough

[Castle Farm]

Whatever you get buy one with a cab on.

I have a Case 695  K reg.and thats about 69 horse. Does everything I need, bought at auction (ex Surrey CC) for £3800 plus all the auctioneers add ons.

[lachlanandmarcus]

Yes a 10ft flail and baler (small bales i presume) is a heavy load for 75hp. i use either a 110hp or 130hp for our 3m fail and our round baler soon soaks up our 155hp.........oh you can never have enough

Yep it's a small baler, NH276 Superhayliner!! With go faster stripes! We were surprised that she copes fine with the flail mower but shes done 2 years with it so far without a problem, we only use it on flattish fields tho.

[stufe35]

I have a 4 cylinder MF 35. Which I have used with all the implements you mentioned (and a baler). It was 37hp when it was new 50 odd years ago.  I would go with a farm tractor rather than compact because matching implements are more plentiful second hand. My observations would lead me to believe they are generally cheaper than compacts which seem to bring a premium. 

Most farm tractors are robust and long lasting and will easily do the tasks you are talking about, it's finding a good one and knowing its a good one that's the tricky bit.

Dealers will charge you a premium and might still sell you a dog.

I would favour Massey 135 or 165, but I am biased to MF because that's what I've mainly used.  I've also used an international 434 which bring a bit less than the MF s. and are immensely strong. As I've said ford, John Deere , david brown, international all well proven.

They stopped making my model of MF in 1960 but I can get every single part for it on next day delivery.

Comment about value is correct, if anything old tractors seem to be going up in value.  You certainly shouldn't loose if you decide to have a swap in a few years time.

If you want to run log splitters you need to have the right hydraulic connections. Most tractor can be adapted to suit, but if the right valves aren't already there you might easily spend another £100 sorting them out. Worth putting into the mix if buying from a dealer.

[edandfred]

thanks everyone for the info and advice. stuck in Africa at the moment trying to earn a crust to pay for the thing so apologies for the delayed reply.

Am I right in thinking that PTOs are pretty standard but hydraulic fittings vary - some implements need a flow and return?

[Still playing with tractors]

pto's come in either 6 or 21 spline versions the most common now is 6.

Yes some attachments logsplitters for example need a send and return to work, most other things folding harrows etc just have a double acting ram and need a twin feed or single feed.