[jaykay]

Wow, that's pretty amazing 

Our roof was originally put on in 1655 but clearly some timbers were replaced in 1840 as it was carved into one.  My roofers last year were pretty impressed and have left their own date for the next guys 

[MAK]

Amazing work Dave - I guess that is why you are keen to buy old tools so that you can use the olde skills on such work. I stand corrected on our woodwork - I suggested chestnut as virtually all large trees near us are sweet chestnut. I gather though that there are different types of oak.
i met an old boy who restorred houses/barns and would buy 400 year old timbers etc from a large woodyard in Kent. He took to leavinf time capsules amongst his work becuase he was so intrigued to have known about the craftsmen who did the original wood work.

[deepinthewoods]

yes mak. i use a 1920's joinery book too. if anyone has an older one id be very interested. even a french one. that would be really very interesting.
chestnut was probably more valuable as fencing,  anything that needed longitudinal strength where it didnt matter about it being unstable in the grain so prone to movement over time.
oak is preserved by its tannin so much more practicle for joinery, oaks 'trustworthy'  and it smells nice when your working it. shame the dust is toxic. and oak splinters go septic quickest in your fingers.

[henchard]

We have always dismissed uPVC as completely out of keeping, but is there something like it, or a matt finish or something which would genuinely look like wood but not have to be painted so frequently?

Whilst I admire a really well made timber window made by a good joiner we have specified timber windows with a pre finished aluminium face for our extension project. See

http://www.rationel.co.uk/professionals/windows-doors/timbercomposite-windows-and-doors/patusplus/

and

http://www.rationel.co.uk/professionals/windows-doors/timbercomposite-windows-and-doors/aldus/

for an example.

These are made by a Danish company and are double or triple glazed. Personally I have not found a joinery company who can make windows to the exact details of well made factory windows.

Just my 2p

[JFDI]

I've had to organise maintenance since 1986 for a Pembrokeshire cottage owned by relatives.  The site is very exposed and the paint on the windows lasted little over 2 years before starting to flake.  Somehow the masonry paint seems to have got better over the years and is doing 8 or 9 years but those sash windows were a nightmare - especially getting a local contractor to get round to doing it.

We finally got a local firm to replace the windows with uPVC and it was the best decision.   They don't have the look, but they don't leak, rattle, jam and deteriorate in front of your eyes.  Yes I'm sure handmade ones would have been better for looks and quality but there was no way elderly folk could afford them.

[Fleecewife]

Thank you everyone - this has all been really informative and helpful 
 
Our windows don't really need to be replaced although there are patches of slightly soggy wood on a couple of the north facing ones - OH is very handy and can cut these bits out and replace, once he gets the time.  All windows here were made by a local joiner and you can see their coverage just driving around - all the old windows are clearly theirs for a radius of a good few miles.  They went bust about 10 years ago.  We had our south facing windows replaced by them about 16 years ago, with single glazed, custom made exact copies. The north side windows seemed fine.   We also had them make windows with double glazing in when the granny flat was converted - these are a problem because they are so heavy it's impossible to open and close them.  We suspect that they used inadequate weights but we haven't had the oomph to investigate further, especially as the flat is rarely used now.
 
We were looking into renewables as a way to reduce our energy bills, but we came to the conclusion that the most important change we could make would be windows which are double glazed, at least on the north side, and properly sealed.  When the wind comes from anywhere between NW and E it whistles in around all the windows, as well as through the cat flap and even under the skirting boards.  So I suppose when I said that painting was a huge chore - which it is and currently not coming high enough up the priority list to get done - that is perhaps me trying to justify getting rid of the draughts by putting in sealed windows.   I definitely prefer the wooden ones to look at, but as several of you have said, being weatherproof is a priority.
 
So I have looked at the URLs you have provided - some interesting products there, thank you.   The best company I have found so far is down in Cheshire, so I don't know if they would do work up here.....    And then there's the cost 
 

i have alot of experience in restoring windows ive been doing just that for the last 12 yrs. upvc is horrible stuff. it degrades over time releasinga gas which according to the conservation officer at cornwall council could be as harmful as asbestos in the future. i have removed enough of these travesties to know they just do not last. theyve only been around for about 30 yrs so have not passed the test of time. they are environmentally unfriendly in their construction and their disposal. they are a throw away item.
i appreciate that repainting windows can be a chore but done properly should last 5 years between repainting easily. most will go to 7 or 8 yrs. there is a much better range of paint on the markets nowadays that offer long working life. indeed some paints are 'self cleaning'
i have repaired and restored windows that are over 200 years old. with regular maintenance, good fitting procedures and a regular painting routine wooden windows should outlive the owners!!

We have used International paint before but it only lasted a bit longer than ordinary stuff.  Which make would you recommend?
 I am interested in the toxic problems from degrading uPVC - do you know more details DitW?

[deepinthewoods]

i would say international is good stuff. i think its gauranteed for 8 yrs. the best finish comes from really good prep. i rub down to bare wood, 2 coats of acrylic primer rubbed down inbetween then at least 2 coats of topcoat. im using water based stuff at the moment, i will look its proper name up when im in the workshop. it sticks like the proverbial.
 
the conservation officer wouldnt tell me any details about degradation of upvc. so i cant offer any more info. ill see if i can dig some stuff up.
the issue with the windows being double glazed and too heavy to lift is a common one.  they should have weighed the sash then added 'make weights' to the cord to even it out. the bottom window shou.d weigh 50/100grams more than its weights, and the top sash should be the same but lighter than its weights. then they stay shut. but are easy to move. you should be able to lift the heaviest window with 1 finger.
you can buy insulating strips for sash windows that are easy for a joiner to fit. if you would like the link ill pm you.

[deepinthewoods]

theres lots online about upvc degrading. heres a bit.
http://www.redbricks.org/home/gtr/why-we-do-not-want-upvc-windows/
 
horrible stuff.

[JFDI]

I used Yacht Paint from International Paints on a dinghy and while a bit of a faff to use the stuff was amazingly tough.  What I used was most certainly not water based.

[SallyintNorth]

We were looking into renewables as a way to reduce our energy bills, but we came to the conclusion that the most important change we could make would be windows which are double glazed, at least on the north side, and properly sealed.  When the wind comes from anywhere between NW and E it whistles in around all the windows, as well as through the cat flap and even under the skirting boards. 

Sounds like the most important change you could make would be a draughtproof cat flap!  I jest not - I've lived in boxes so sealed the only draught was through the cat flap, and you may as well have had the front door pegged open.

Best setup we had was a house with a proper porch; there was a tunnel/flap coming in through the thick wall under the bench seat, on the side of the porch, then a regular cat flap in the inner door that came into the house.  This being at right angles to the outer cat flap, not much draught came through it.

Otherwise I've used cat flaps with full-width and -length covers, and a thick curtain.  Cat has to knock or shout (or, as in the case of one, use the doorbell I conveniently hung on his collar  ) - so that is so close to having no cat flap and just letting them in when they shout, I subsequently didn't always have a cat flap at all.  It's useful to have a flap if you're out a lot, though.

[Fleecewife]

Hi Sally     Well, funnily enough porches front and back, with angled cat flaps just as you describe, are top of my wish list.....we just need the readies.  I don't want to wish for them as something nasty would have to happen first 
But you're right (of course  ) that we should do something about the cat flap.  Milly the puss is getting on a bit now and doesn't like the cat flap at the best of times, but if she's outside at night then I don't want her unable to get in - the road is very close.  The Jack Russell uses the cat flap too, so anything posh is likely to be smashed when he goes out at top speed to investigate some imaginary intruder     I'm not sure if Milly would cope with one of those two flapped tunnel ones - I'm sure she would use the floor in preference     She had a litter tray for the first year but won't touch one now.   We do have a heavy curtain over the door in winter which helps keep the draughts down.
 
Maybe we just need a nice new house in suburbia........NOOOOOOOOO     
 
ditw - yes please - the link for the insulating strips would be lovely.
 
It's windy today although not too cold, but I am being reminded that it's urgent that we do something.

[SallyintNorth]

The Jack Russell uses the cat flap too, so anything posh is likely to be smashed when he goes out at top speed to investigate some imaginary intruder   

As did this Springador, until he didn't fit any more, and then he just took it with him....

[SallyintNorth]

The Jack Russell uses the cat flap too, so anything posh is likely to be smashed when he goes out at top speed to investigate some imaginary intruder   

As did this Springador, until he didn't fit any more, and then he just took it with him....

I don't know what else we expected, with a breed named 'Spring-a-door'!! 

[Fleecewife]

 
                                                                   
 
Our other dog did that too with an internal cat flap - came through with it round her neck