Author Topic: Electric fence wire positioning (Read 3791 times)

Womble · « **on:** July 23, 2012, 12:04:30 am »

Hi Folks,

It looks as though we might finally be getting our pig enclosure fencing done this week. It's going to be done with rylock netting, but since we need it to last a while, I want to install an electric (hot) wire at the base of the fence, to discourage the pigs from rootling underneath it.

Can any of you pig keepers tell me at what height, and how far out from the base of the fence I should run this lowest hot wire?

Also, for the adjacent poultry fence, I'm going to have hot wires run across the top and near the base to keep foxes out. Again, does anybody know what the best position for the bottom hot wire is?

Thanks in advance! Womble.

oaklandspigs · « **Reply #1 on:** July 23, 2012, 08:21:40 am »

In height terms, about 6", the pigs will appraoch it with noses down.

As far as how far out, no real distance needed, just enough to stop it touching the netting.

If you do the netting the "wrong way round" then you can use the posts for both netting and the electric.

What does "wrong way round" mean? well normally you would put in the posts and then attach the wire to the inside of the enclosure - the theory being that an animal pushing against the wire will also be pushing the wire against the post, so not relying on the staples to hold the fence on.

Howver if you put the wire on the outside, then you can put screw in insulators on the inside of the posts to hold the electric.

It is the electric that keeps them in so the fact that the netting is on the outside doesn't matter, as they'll never touch the netting - once trained you can keep pigs just behind a single strand of tape, so the fence is only providing some additional comfort for you and a backstop for electric failure!

Screw in insulators let you adjust height easily, if your ground in not flat pigs over a period will level it for you, so the ones on a lower slope might need raising after a while.

robert waddell · « **Reply #2 on:** July 23, 2012, 08:32:31 am »

you get long screw in insulators it is irrelevant if wire (rylock )is on one side of posts or the other it is only an aesthetic thing if you are dividing a field one side will have it correct the other wont
if you come up to ours David and have a look at our pens it will give you a better idea of what you can do and what you want

Womble · « **Reply #3 on:** July 23, 2012, 12:44:05 pm »

Thanks folks,

The contractor said he'd have a think about the hot wire, and has proposed mounting it on separate 4" stobs, rather than on the fenceposts themselves. The reason for this is that we're having horse rylock rather than the standard stuff, partly because it could be horses the other side of the fence, and partly because it will be poultry proof, so I won't have to mess about with any additional netting to keep hubbards etc in or out. The contractor's reasoning on the 4" stobs was that he wouldn't be able to fit the insulators through the horse rylock, but he was open to ideas.

What do you reckon?

robert waddell · « **Reply #4 on:** July 23, 2012, 01:00:49 pm »

horse rylock that is a new one on me

Womble · « **Reply #5 on:** July 23, 2012, 01:41:21 pm »

Just smaller squares so they can't get their hooves trapped, and also chicken proof, that's all.

oaklandspigs · « **Reply #6 on:** July 23, 2012, 02:21:03 pm »

Probably as easy to use a screw in offset like this :

http://www.rappa.co.uk/products/123-screw-in-offset-25-pack

and again these can be moved if needbe

Depends on what he'll charge to do a load of wood offsets

robert waddell · « **Reply #7 on:** July 23, 2012, 03:17:32 pm »

just my opinion womble i think you need a different contractor or do it yourself the ones that oaklands highlighted is similar to the ones i use

bloomer · « **Reply #8 on:** July 23, 2012, 03:39:08 pm »

Quote from: robert waddell on July 23, 2012, 03:17:32 pm

just my opinion womble i think you need a different contractor or do it yourself the ones that oaklands highlighted is similar to the ones i use

i can't see any reason not to mount on the same posts, sounds like he just wants to charge you for another load of stobs!!!!

Womble · « **Reply #9 on:** July 23, 2012, 04:18:10 pm »

Yes, quite possible - and hence why I asked the question! However, the stobs were just his idea, and I'll discuss the offset brackets above with him, since I see no reason why they couldn't be used with any type of rylock.

The one advantage of doing it with stobs is that the wire could be run with a fair amount of tension. However, I'm sure it would be cheaper to use Oaklands' offsets and some white electric tape instead. You pays your money and you takes your choice I guess.

Robert - I need to invite you round soon anyway to have a look at the rest of our fencing

, so you can tell me then what an idiot I've been, and I promise not to be too offended!

robert waddell · « **Reply #10 on:** July 23, 2012, 05:37:04 pm »

the initial set up with electric fencing is quite dear but then it is relatively cheap to extend you don't need stobs to get tension on the wire better with wire than tape more fun watching them get jagged

i am in stirling tomorrow what time are you at home