Author Topic: Pillar drill - recommendations (Read 7968 times)

suziequeue · « **on:** June 15, 2012, 07:23:20 am »

I have been given the opportunity of buying a pillar drill for my birthday.

There seems to be a bewildering array of choices out there. Where do I start??

I would be using it for standard projects plus possibly some craft projects in the future (chairs especially I hope)

Does anybody have any recommendations? At present I don't have space on my workbench for a bench mounted one but once we move back into the house then another bench in the workshop is a possibility.....

Thanks

chrismahon · « **Reply #1 on:** June 15, 2012, 08:55:32 pm »

Do you mean a proper motorised pillar drill or a pillar drill stand Suziequeue? I have a Draper pillar drill stand (£30) which has the drawback of too high a speed for anything over 6 mm and too low for anything under 3 mm. That's in wood which is more forgiving. Chuck capacity of half inch is OK but it really needs to go down to 100 rpm for hole saws. Sure you can download recommended cutting speeds for drills and hole saws in various materials. Metals are unforgiving as I'm sure you know. For big drills you need to be able to clamp the workpiece securely to the bed and you will need some power, say 1000 Watts minimum. The other problem I have is depth. It has a gauge to measure it but only 70mm, which with clearance above the workpiece gives 65mm useable.

suziequeue · « **Reply #2 on:** June 16, 2012, 07:27:41 am »

I am starting from scratch so I would want the full monty.

[/size]I was looking to get an Axminster WD16F twelve speed free standing pillar drill. Speeds go from 120 to 2580 rpm because I do want to be able to use a hole saw and also for the drill to be a little more than I need to start with so that I would "grow" into it as my skills improve.

chrismahon · « **Reply #3 on:** June 16, 2012, 09:12:16 pm »

There are two reviews on that product Suziequeue. It will need bolting down securely and it is a lightweight machine really. But should be plenty good enough to start. Just need the drill 'plunge' depth -how far down will the chuck decend using the handle. I've found 70mm is not enough and suggest 100mm as a minimum or you will need to drill in two stages which is tricky to do because of the swarf. Speeds are good range but you will find you really only use about 4. Highest, lowest and a couple in the middle - 600 and 1500 probably.

I'd like something like that but the annual budget has just been spent on a trailer.

suziequeue · « **Reply #4 on:** June 17, 2012, 06:30:52 am »

Thanks Chris

When you mentioned 100rpm for the hole saw I am presuming you mean into wood? or were you talking about metal?

"It is a lightweight machine really"

Realistically - I think will be a lightweight user.

robert waddell · « **Reply #5 on:** June 17, 2012, 09:16:28 am »

well suzie not that much interest in pillar drills is there
with the amount of liquidations in the enginering industry you can pick up an old style pillar drill for not much money usually scrap price the real heavy duty ones will be 3 phase
although the lightweight new ones are good enough for occasional use it is more accuarasy with pillars as opossed to a hand held drill

suziequeue · « **Reply #6 on:** June 17, 2012, 11:24:47 am »

Yes - it's the accuracy that I'm really looking for Robert. In future I want to be able to make nice things. At the moment I'm just cobbling stuff together and it bugs me

deepinthewoods · « **Reply #7 on:** June 17, 2012, 12:07:10 pm »

the heavier the drill the better, and the depth of gape is all important as chris says. roberts right about 3phase ones. i bought a 'lightweight' machine and its just the right side of useless.

chrismahon · « **Reply #8 on:** June 17, 2012, 07:05:43 pm »

When drilling holes for fixing parts together always mark and drill from the assembly face if you need accuracy, not the screwing face. That way if the drill wanders off a bit, which it can do even with a pillar drill because of uneven grinding of the drill tip, the error is minimised. You can also get a good hand held drilling squareness by using long series drills and a small square.

si-mate · « **Reply #9 on:** June 18, 2012, 09:45:14 am »

I bought this one from machine mart a couple of years ago:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cdp401b-drill-press?da=1&TC=SRC-pilar%20drill

I've drilled 25mm holes in 10mm steel before without issue and also used it with a 47mm hole saw.

chrismahon · « **Reply #10 on:** June 18, 2012, 07:25:34 pm »

Looks a good machine that Si-mate. But the lowest speed is still high although the highest is great for very fine drills. Nice large table as well. I'm always a bit wary of Clarke stuff -the first thing that broke on my saw bench was the emergency stop on the first day! I've had a pump short circuit and melt down as well. They have a good spares system, but the prices are double what you would expect to pay.

suziequeue · « **Reply #11 on:** June 18, 2012, 07:55:49 pm »

Thankyou. This is all grist to the mill. I think it's a toss up between Draper and Axminster

Odin · « **Reply #12 on:** June 23, 2012, 06:32:52 am »

I have one of those Machine Mart drills mounted on the bench, had it about three years, its does the job. There is movement in the head, but if the job is marked out and punched accurately, then not a problem. Have made the drop sides for farm trailers and at the moment I am using it to fabricate a Ratchet and Pawl hand brake lever for a farm trailer. Working on steel up to a quarter / five-sixteenth thickness, above that the belts slip.
Some things on the drill are a bit thin, but hey, its made in China and wasn't expensive. A good old British Made thing would be far superior but I do not have the work.
The next big job for it is a new rear door for my six foot Howard Rotovator.
The bench to mount it on and electrical supply cost more than the drill.