Author Topic: worms, bugs, and beasties! looking for advice please!! (Read 3943 times)

pikilily · « **on:** April 19, 2009, 03:49:20 pm »

I have been trying to work out what the best worming, de-fluking, lousing and anti flystrike regime would be for me.

I have only 5 ewes and 11 lambs (now three weeks old) in Scotland, on pasture which has never had sheep., but has had my horses grazing on it. I think from some previous discussions that at the moment I am overstocked. They are in a one acre field, but I am trying to get another field to rent while i make my other field sheep proof.! what is a reasonable stocking level for lowland grazing?

I am overwhelmed by the array of products on the market, the cost, efficacy etc. Some of the products come in absolutely huge containers..it also seems that you need to buy numerous variations on a theme.

So the question is;

What is the best sheep worming product/regime for me?

What is the best fly and lice product for me.?

I am ok with giving injections - I am a nurse.

I dont want to spend a fortune on something i only get a few uses from before it goes out of date. So another Q would be how long is the average shelf life, once opened? and how small a container can one buy?

emma x

VSS · « **Reply #1 on:** April 19, 2009, 07:57:31 pm »

There is a new injectable wormer from Cydectin which should give worm cover for the whole summer. Just be careful of the meat withdrawl period though - I don't know what it is but would guess it is quite long.

For ectoparasites, we use Dysect as it deals with ticks as well. Some people are keen on Clik as one application should last for 16 week (but it won't if you don't apply it correctly), but we don't use it as it doesn't work on ticks.

Try your vet for small quantities - if you are in an agricultural area, they should be happy to provide you with just the amount you need. We have often bought just a few dose of fluke dose for cattle in a bottle from the vet.

These proucts I mentioned won't deal with fluke - if you want a combined fluke and worme dose, you might try endospec - very useful later in the season when your lambs are almost ready to go as it only has a 3 day meat withdrawl period.

shetlandpaul · « **Reply #2 on:** April 19, 2009, 08:09:42 pm »

yes ask your vet. they decant enough for our ten sheep. I would not want to buy the big bottles way to expensive.

pikilily · « **Reply #3 on:** April 19, 2009, 09:47:15 pm »

VSS, how do you apply your dysect to the sheep. and how often...I actually have some in my horse medicine chest.
Thanks for the prompt answers. I want to have this clear in my head before i either waste my money or harm the sheep.
Bless them.

i'll look into the cydectin as well, ta

Emma x

garden cottage · « **Reply #4 on:** April 22, 2009, 10:19:14 pm »

5 ewes with lambs on 1 acre i would say is absolute maximum,also depends on quality of grass/grazing, at some stage you will need to rest it and take off all livestock to allow grass to recover and prevent worm build up, think this is the biggest problem where smallholder is concerned paddocks being overgrazed when grazing is short flock health problems usually follow.

shetlandpaul · « **Reply #5 on:** April 23, 2009, 06:53:14 am »

that does seem a lot of sheep for such a small area. We have 10 sheep and 7 shetland ponies on 25 acres and we struggle. if thats the only area that you have then your going to have problems. were are you going to produce your winter feed from. it expensive buying it in.

pikilily · « **Reply #6 on:** April 23, 2009, 10:57:24 am »

hi Garden and Shetland,

Yes I do feel that the five ewes on one acre, with lambs at foot is too much. I actually have approx three acres of ground. The field they are in is one acre with two small paddocks of 1/3 acre at either end. My other fields are 1 acre and 1/2 acre paddocks, but at the moment they are not sheep proof. Getting the correct fencing up will definitely be my next priority. Then I can rotate horses and sheep around.

I must admit that the number of lambs (11) took me and my shepherding guru a bit by surprise. He anticipated that the hoggs would have singles and that I would maybe have one or two casualties. I am chuffed to say I did not loose a single lamb, so I have a lambing percentage of 220%.

I think this autumn I will sell on three of the ewes and keep a just couple of the ewe lambs. All the other lambs will be for going for freezer or to market. I already have several of the lambs reserved for friend's freezers. Maybe then I will only put the remaining two ewes to the tup. That would give me four mouths to feed over the winter, with a possible 4 lambs due this time next year. A slightly more manageable number!?

As for feeds I dont grow my own hay,,,I have done before but it is more stressful than lambing! I buy in my hay for the horses and sheep from very local suppliers. At £12-£15 delivered big (4 x4) top quality hay bales it is a good price. The home grass is pretty good quality a;though I tend not to fertilize very often at all and I only spot spray for dockens. I let all the other plants grow for variety.

Today I have dagged, jagged, and tagged. So feel and smell very shepherdy

Ended up using the cydectin which I got from the vets.

Emma x

shetlandpaul · « **Reply #7 on:** April 23, 2009, 11:36:50 am »

well done. very lucky. we have two suppliers of hay small bales are £6.5. we produced 12 bales of silage but lost three to mold. We learn as we go along i thought the local crofters were daft putting old nets over the top of the bales to protect them from gulls. we soon got some in. Our grass is only just starting to grow so the sheep and ponies are turning there noses up at the hay.