Author Topic: shearing frisky sheep (Read 3788 times)

Fieldfare · « **on:** May 17, 2011, 12:22:58 pm »

Hi all- a bit of advice needed- I have successfully fleeced 2 of my Castlemilk Moorit ewes with electric shears- they didn't really want to keep still- the 2nd one was a bit better and took me 20 minutes- I had to release her 4 times and start again- with the fleece in 1000's of bits (although I must admit they do look really neat!). Any tips on getting them to sit? (they seem to be always looking for a way to escape my grip...). Really difficult to get them to stay on their sides also (4 legs off the ground). Is it something I am not doing in the handling? Would it be cheating to get a 2nd pair of hands to grab a couple of legs...or is this what folks normally have to do with skittish primitive breeds? I get the feeling it is acually easier with big lumps of sheep who can't be bothered too move normally?

Thanks in advance for any tips

Roxy · « **Reply #1 on:** May 17, 2011, 01:37:01 pm »

Not sure about the big lumps of sheep being easier. Our two large Shropshire ewes are awful to handle at all. My OH was thrown right across the pen and ended up with a big bruise on his forehead, and he was only catching them for the farmer to shear. He had a struggle too. Now Bertie my Shetland boy, was good, and enjoyed the experience!

SingingShearer · « **Reply #2 on:** May 17, 2011, 02:26:24 pm »

Hi,

The main thing is to keep the sheep's feet off of anything that they can kick against and to keep the sheep as calm as possible.
If you had just been rugby tackled, held on the ground and shaved then you wouldn't be too happy

.

It is more to do with experience than anything, if you can get hold of the head and slip your thumb in the sheep's mouth between their teeth then most times they will cooperate more.

Thanks,
Philip

PDO_Lamb · « **Reply #3 on:** May 17, 2011, 02:30:29 pm »

The British Wool Marketing Board and Agricultural Training Boards run courses to teach clipping to a pattern that is like peeling an apple round and round so the skin comes off in a spiral. Shetlands are smaller so you end up working bent down all the time which can be hard on the back but, if their feet are kept hanging free with nothing to push against when they kick out, they can be quite cooperative. If I remember correctly Shropshires have wool from the point of their nose to the tips of their toes and its a long stretch to these extremities. I don't think my back would be up to it these days.

BadgerFace · « **Reply #4 on:** May 17, 2011, 03:07:08 pm »

One thing to keep in mind, it is uncomfortable for sheep 'sit' when their bellies are full. I always bring mine in a good few hours before starting shearing - whatever I do though, some still get the wriggles

Fleecewife · « **Reply #5 on:** May 17, 2011, 03:40:54 pm »

We keep primitives and I know what you mean about them being wriggly

Ones being shorn for the first time can be particularly awkward as they don't know what's going on, whereas our older ewes love getting all that wool off and are well behaved. When you have them sitting on their rumps with the head hanging down on one side, if they wriggle then a firm hand pushing down on the breast bone helps to calm them. I have also heard that you can push down into the belly but I haven't tried that. Wait to resume until they are still. It's probably not a good idea to let them up partway through as that way they have won and will just wriggle all the more. The most difficult time is when they are on their sides - stick your foot under the underneath shoulder, with their front legs bent and tucked up tightly, held by your ankle and shin. In theory like this they shouldn't wriggle as they think they can't get any purchase with their feet. The squirmers will still find something to kick against so with particularly bad ones it is a good idea to have someone else talking to the front end and holding the head in the appropriate position for the stage of shearing, but slightly off the ground anyway. If you are taking a long time to shear then sudden squirming is the sheep asking for a toilet break

SingingShearer · « **Reply #6 on:** May 17, 2011, 04:04:40 pm »

Hi,

Shropshires arne't that bad really, but Ryelands can be!

A professional shearer can shear most sheep without too much struggling, but if a sheep has been treated badly by a shearer before then they can be very bad.
Shearlings are good to shear as long as you know how and so are primitive breeds

.

If you are confident and relaxed about shearing then the sheep will know and should behave better.

I have had black eyes and bruises whilst I was learning but it all gets better after the first 1000

Thanks,
Philip

robate55 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 17, 2011, 05:20:25 pm »

My husband & I have just finished shearing 30 first time Hebs. They were wriggly but I find the better I am getting at shearing (still not very good) the better they are. The ewes are still to go but will be much easier judging from last year. Tup could be more difficult tho'.
I am finding the comments on here really useful as we are only into our 3rd shearing season & still have a lot to learn
Rose
ps my husband does hace black eye from one of the shearlings horns