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Author Topic: Hazel uses  (Read 4879 times)

fifixx

  • Joined Mar 2010
  • Shillingstone, Dorset
    • Bere Marsh Farm
Hazel uses
« on: January 24, 2011, 10:46:41 am »
I have lots of old hazel coppice and can see that the poles are ready for cutting - apart from using them in the garden, what can I make them into that isn't too difficult?  There are all sorts of sizes

Fleecewife

  • Joined May 2010
  • South Lanarkshire
    • ScotHebs
Re: Hazel uses
« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2011, 12:38:21 pm »
Oh lucky you - we have just the beginnings of a tiny new hazel coppice which probably won't be useable before we die.  Hurdles are made of hazel, although I think some of the weavers can be willow.  Can you use it as a cash crop?  There must be plenty of people like me who would love some.
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fifixx

  • Joined Mar 2010
  • Shillingstone, Dorset
    • Bere Marsh Farm
Re: Hazel uses
« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2011, 01:23:30 pm »
I'll look for some You Tube videos on how to make hurdles! 

Frieslandfilly

  • Joined Apr 2009
Re: Hazel uses
« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2011, 01:43:44 pm »
At this time of year, hazel is useful for hedgelaying if you know anyone doing it, you could always offer some in return for a lesson.

Hardfeather

  • Guest
Re: Hazel uses
« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2011, 06:24:29 pm »
Walking sticks are usually hazel. Some are cut for making into horn-headed sticks, and some are cut with a bit of base to allow a carved head to be incorporated into the stick. Hazel for sticks should ideally be cut in winter, and left to stand in bundles of ten or so, tied round in several places along their length, on an uninsulated concrete floor for about a year until dry.

Hazel can also be used for pea and bean supports, or set up as curved frames for a covering of mesh or polythene to protect seedlings/strawberries... For such purposes it can be used green.

Hurdles are fairly easy to make except the process is very hard on the palms of the maker's hands, at least initially. The uprights are placed into a heavy batten (a railway sleeper is ideal) and the holes into which they go must be set on a curve from end to end of the chosen length for the hurdle, and drilled out to about three inches deep.

Once the uprights are fixed in place, hazel rods and split rods are woven through the structure and hammered down tight with a club-like length of wood. Each new layer must be started at least a third way into the length so that the ends are secure. The damage to the hands comes from the practice of twisting the rods at the ends of the hurdle before resuming the weaving, and can cause blistering.

When the hurdle is completed, it is released from its curved shape and laid flat on a hard surface. The process of settling and flattening out serves to tighten the whole thing up, and it becomes quite robust and sturdy.

HappyHippy

  • Guest
Re: Hazel uses
« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2011, 07:38:30 pm »
AengusOg - would this work with other types of wood for the uprights (willow for example ?) I've got an abundance of willow and a bit of larch (but the larch's pretty thick so would need a bit of work) could I use this or does it really need to be hazel ? (she asks while eyeing the planting plan with a glint in her eye ;))
Thanks  :-*

Hardfeather

  • Guest
Re: Hazel uses
« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2011, 10:32:25 pm »
HH, I suppose you might use other woods for the uprights. In fact I'm pretty sure you could make willow hurdles, although I wonder if they may be as robust or long-lived as those made from hazel.

Larch is a lasting wood, for a soft wood, but chestnut would be better and longer lasting, if you could get it.

 

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