I had a mower battery fail this year which was only 2 years old. Nice bright green light, but measured 11.5V and there wasn't enough power in it to operate the starter solenoid. The green 'light' (floating indicator) is only on one cell, so if one of the others fails it won't show.
As Womble says, a simple voltmeter will suffice. There are two test to do. First is the no load voltage and the second with a load. You expect the voltage to drop slightly under load, but not that much. Connect a headlight bulb across the terminals- it shouldn't be dim or drop the voltage below 12V.
Right, update:
Today, someone lent me a konnwei car battery tester (you'll be fine, read instructions.....).
I tested 4 batteries, 3 leisure, 1 car (my old Kia battery, not only was it salvage written off, just when I needed to get dog to vet, she wouldn't start, wouldn't jump, was really at the end of my tether! Mechanic came out "sounds like cam belt love" not what you want to hear when you've taken salvage price over full write off price! Few days later, my usual mechanic come out, do full test, "you need a new battery".) Old battery taken to Shippon, charged once (this was late last year).
Meter today states car battery at 50%.
65A CCA 480 (I think, I know it's little)
3 leisure batteries ALL with green floats,
85A MCA(is it?) 780
2 at 10.3v 10.3A,
1 at 10v 9A
Which I'm assuming is not good?
All were tested as out of car and the top 2 options regarding type of battery which I think (off memory) is regular flooded and agm flat plate.
However, each had CHARGE-RETEST on the display and according to to instructions means I need to recharge, then retest and if the same results appear, battery knackered, this could be very expensive!
So, do i go by this new tester OR do I buy a multimeter and check that way, or do I consider praying as batteries haven't gone down in price?