[kaz]

Well not been that active on forum lately due to hubbys accident, but thought I'd just let you know took the plunge and got two puppies, not from the same litter.
Hip scores really low and eyes clear from both parents.who can advice on their training. One 11 weeks & other 13.5 weeks. I don't want them turning into hooligans.

[HappyHippy]

Awww - you'll need to post a photo (I go all broody with puppies  )
Retreviers are incredibly smart (though some do have the loopy gene )
The main thing to remember with any puppy is make it do what you want when it's little, because if you don't it'll turn into an unruly adult. A vet told me this when I took my first GSD for it's vaccines and I've never forgotten it !
Some basic sit training and getting them used to walking on a lead without pulling etc maybe only 5-10 minutes at a time to start with, puppy socialisation and training classes are a good thing, but you can do the same yourself. We had retrievers when I was younger, they're very smart and quick to learn. We had a 'loopy' one, rehomed to us by it's owner after it chewed though (amongst other things) a live freezer cable ! He was always nuts - but responded really well to gundog training. They're a bit like kids - the more you put into them, the more you get out 
Annie will be along soon with proper training advice - she's more of an expert than me 
But good luck with them (and nice to see you back)
Karen x

[Rosemary]

No advice - you should meet my dogs  . But echo Karen - pics please and glad you're back. How is OH?

[doganjo]

Awww - you'll need to post a photo (I go all broody with puppies  )
Retreviers are incredibly smart (though some do have the loopy gene )
The main thing to remember with any puppy is make it do what you want when it's little, because if you don't it'll turn into an unruly adult. A vet told me this when I took my first GSD for it's vaccines and I've never forgotten it !
Some basic sit training and getting them used to walking on a lead without pulling etc maybe only 5-10 minutes at a time to start with, puppy socialisation and training classes are a good thing, but you can do the same yourself. We had retrievers when I was younger, they're very smart and quick to learn. We had a 'loopy' one, rehomed to us by it's owner after it chewed though (amongst other things) a live freezer cable ! He was always nuts - but responded really well to gundog training. They're a bit like kids - the more you put into them, the more you get out 
Annie will be along soon with proper training advice - she's more of an expert than me 
But good luck with them (and nice to see you back)
Karen x

Here I am, and I couldn't have put it better myself - you been watching my training videos, Karen? he he   Seriously, Kaz, follow this advice and if you have any problems at any time ask away.  I'll help if I can. 
Basically if you want your dog to do something as an adult let it do it as a puppy - like jump up at people to welcome them, run riot in the house, jump all over the furniture, knock the kids down, steal food off the worktops - all what a  boisterous pup will do. Training is more a case of modelling behaviour than anything else.  Oh and don't do as I do, do as I say (I am the world's worst at training my own dogs - although if they were Cockers, Labs or Goldies I would be much better at it.

[kaz]

Thanks for the advice. They are pretty good and will come to being whistled so I am on the right track.
Don't they look cute.

[HappyHippy]

AWWWWWW OOOOooooo Ahhhhhhhhhh
They are BEAUTIFUL !!! I want one, or two, or fourteen lol!
What are their names Kaz ?

[kaz]

In the picture where they are sitting, the one on the left is Amber and on the right Skye. Amber is the older one.

[robert waddell]

and what about collies???

[doganjo]

I was going to suggest whistle training them, but usually you start with verbal commands and hand signals (useful if you can get the dog to stop at distance and look at you), so if they recall to whistle already that's really good.  They may go 'off' when they reach the 'teenage stage' of about a year to one and a half.  Remember if you whistle and they don't come back first time, don't whistle again as you'll be training them to ignore the first command.  Go and get them, bring them back.  That's the bit I can't do any more in a large area - I can't catch puppies any more.  So train the recall in an enclosed area so you can bring them back physically if they ignore you or run the other way.  If a pup thinks you can outrun it when it is small you can make it believe you'll always be able to do that.

[kaz]

and what about collies???
I've got them as well........................

[kaz]

Had both of them out today together & seperately. Found an old whistle and tried recall only once, excellant responce to that on a sharp whistle they both came to me. Also am at early stage with them to stay i.e. told them to stay while I walked out into field admittedly shut the gate between us (they can at this stage get under it if they want) but there they dutifully stayed until I returned to a raptuous  welcome. Probably a fluke but what the heck. They definately want to please.
Oh by the way hubby on mend. It has been a long journey and still continues to be.

[knightquest]

Congratulations on the stay and I'm glad hubby is on the mend. 

I would say that if you want to work on training and stays in particular, then just start off small and not give 'em too much chance to break the stay before you return. If you start small you can gradually increase the distance that you leave them for.
If they start to break at a certain distance, go back to a distance that they can do and build up again.

Love the raptuous reward when you got back by the way.

Ian

[Nina]

Echo advice from previous posters - And don't think it's been mentioned yet, but make sure you do plenty of individual training away from the other pup - They're so close in age, they'll bond great with each other and you may find yourself battling to get their attention away from their best mate!  Socialisation with other dogs/people/noises/traffic/situations/other animals (everything you can think of!) if vastly important, especially up to 16 weeks of age to aid being a well balanced grown up dog.

Probably the most important thing to train now is the recall, for their own safety - Long lines are great for this, recalling from a stationary start and progressing to recalling from them being distracted.  Plenty of reward when they are back and in the position you want (or just back to you!) And never scauld for not coming back when eventually they decide to return if they've been ignoring you - To a dog - Why the heck should I go back at all next time if I'm going to be told off??  (Yet you see it all the time when walking - Yes, it infuriates me!!)  To increase the thinking side of it, you can progress to having both dogs stationary (sit or down etc) and recall one at a time using dogs name and recall command - So they really have to listen to you - I love doing this with my 4 and sometimes with family's 2 dogs too - You really see them concentrate!

In general training - Remember - Consistency in commands, short sessions for the pups, plenty of reward (toys, treats, fuss) - And most importantly SMILE when you're training - Both you and the pup should be having fun...!!! 

[knightquest]

Echo advice from previous posters - And don't think it's been mentioned yet, but make sure you do plenty of individual training away from the other pup - They're so close in age, they'll bond great with each other and you may find yourself battling to get their attention away from their best mate!  Socialisation with other dogs/people/noises/traffic/situations/other animals (everything you can think of!) if vastly important, especially up to 16 weeks of age to aid being a well balanced grown up dog.

Probably the most important thing to train now is the recall, for their own safety - Long lines are great for this, recalling from a stationary start and progressing to recalling from them being distracted.  Plenty of reward when they are back and in the position you want (or just back to you!) And never scauld for not coming back when eventually they decide to return if they've been ignoring you - To a dog - Why the heck should I go back at all next time if I'm going to be told off??  (Yet you see it all the time when walking - Yes, it infuriates me!!)  To increase the thinking side of it, you can progress to having both dogs stationary (sit or down etc) and recall one at a time using dogs name and recall command - So they really have to listen to you - I love doing this with my 4 and sometimes with family's 2 dogs too - You really see them concentrate!

In general training - Remember - Consistency in commands, short sessions for the pups, plenty of reward (toys, treats, fuss) - And most importantly SMILE when you're training - Both you and the pup should be having fun...!!! 

Good post 

Ian

[Jackie]

Thats my breed you have there I bred and showed those for over 20 years so ask away.

Train them seperately always or they will just play with each other and bond with each other too much. Spend some time with each pup on its own too.

Please tell me their affix, I may know the breeders.