You think that's bad arobwk - you should see the reality
But Sally, I don't want a tuffet

. I went on a weaving course to learn all I needed, although the instructor warped my 4 shaft jack loom for me (I think she thought I would spend the whole week doing just that). The weaving was simple, just mathsy technique which I loved, so now I'm left wanting to get on with the floor loom, but with a big mental block about warping. So I bought a little Harp rigid heddle loom to practice small things on, then life got complicated and I haven't even made anything on that. The big (to me) floor loom is a Dryad from the 70s, the kind every hippy and every school had back then. It's old, we've been working on some repairs and I need to do some more work on it before I set to. For example, the previous owner had tied up the pedals with thick orange polyprop rope (yes it has two pedals).
The thing is that the warping
is easy for someone who knows how to do it, but as I have never warped the thing I don't have a clue so it's not going to be easy. I think there are youtube clips out there for the Dryad so when I'm ready I'll take a look at them, get Mr F into a warp mood and give it a go. Meantime can anyone give me advice about the best warp material to use with Heb fleece for a sturdy floor rug which will go into the washing machine please? The Dryad is much bigger and chunkier all round than most Ashfords Sally, as they are made for floor rugs, but I get your point about checking the thickness to roll onto the front beam. I'll try and get a pic tomorrow so you'll see it's a project, not something I can just start weaving on.
Updated: I just found this old thread
https://www.weavolution.com/group/dryad-upright-rug-loom-19195 which shows just how different this loom is. Reading through other peoples queries, I see that my loom might not be complete, and could be quite difficult to use, especially now my joints have got creaky. It seems everyone's Dryad is a bit different from the next persons

I'm suddenly feeling despondent.
One good hint is that someone recommends the back to front warping technique, because the whole thing stands upright, so you can work with gravity