I use this method and it works really well. I turned over 10-12 volumes of compost this way last year & stored it for use at the end of the season.
You dont have to be really precious about the quantities because it just takes a little longer if they are not exactly right.
I have been taking neighbours weeds to get enough volume - he didnt believe it would work till i showed him the end result of his weeds after about 5 weeks.
My experience is this
the cubic metre volume is important - it doesnt get hot enough if you dont
if its not hot enough after 4 days leave it for a few more days
if its working your heap will be about 2/3rds the size after 4 days
dont worry about weed seeds - some get through but not too many - I put loads of docks on one and only 4 or 5 survived the heat.
Make sure you put 2-3 watering cans of water on your new heap as you are building it.
Chicken poo is the best accelerater - i mix this in with the layers
Too many grass cuttings will give you a slimey mess - just dry it out and add it back in again
Doesnt work well in the colder months - heat not maintained
I put plastic sheet on top then an old carpet to keep the moisture in
After 4-6 weeks it will still be rough so I store it up for another 4-8 weeks before I use it.
I use the Berkley method as well ..
Instead of being a big butch hero I have to use a kiddies sand spade araldited onto the butt end of an old damaged up tide sea fishing rod ( I'm 75 % disabled ), to move the piles around .
I have seven of the local authority 310 litre Dalek style black poly prop conical lidded composter bins ( purchased some for a tenner each delivered ) others came off " The free cycle "
I've been using lots of animal based manures plus all the greenery out the gardens all kitchen waste including cooked food/ bits of bread but not fat)
To over come the probs of having to keep several heaps of materials so I can eventually blend a Dalek using the BM I bunged all the greenery and non stable pigsty, chicken pen etc. stuff in one bin ..it rots down fairly quick .
I cross shred paper and tear up all cardboard boxes into palm sized bits & sprinkle it over the top of the contents don't let it lie in big wodges ..it won't rot quickly and often goes slimy .
I then go and get a trailer of straw'd stable muck or shavings or wood pulp or hemp or even neat cobbles .
Remove the Dalek case off what's all ready rotting and then add a 4 inch thick base of straw to the new site where I've place the bin to soak up any liquids ( why let it all run away )? ) drop in a 3 -4 inch thick layer of stable muck ,give it a spray with the hose spray head , add 3-4 inches of the already rotting veg matter etc. and give it a spray and carry on till the bin is filled .
Do the same with another empty bin to use up everything or to store it away from wind sun and rain
During the next week I'll get a trailer of chicken muck neat or with beddings and lift off one of the Daleks break the heap apart and rebuild like before including some straw in the base layer then layer the contents with the chicken muck
Then the next week I'll do the same again using pig muck & bedding . this gets repeated till I have at least five different animal manures as well as lots more home produced rotting veg matter & bit of paper.
Because the bins lose volume of contents due to decay and evaporation it's not often I've run out of space .
Once I have all five manures integrated I'll try and turn each bin at least once a week for four weeks not adding anything else . I have a temp probe that I can slip down a copper water pipe I'ts good to see the pile head to 140 o F as that real composting .
Once the pile starts to stay below 100 oF then I leave the compost alone till needed , you'll notice that it will become infested with muck worms which is a bonus as they eat the decaying materials and produce a very valuable worm cast manure for free.