[Briggsy from Gower]

We inherited a small orchard with our property which was and still is in various states for disrepair.

There are a couple of dwarf eaters that produce a handful of tasty apples each year so I have not the heart to remove them even though they are now overshadowed by the larger neighbours.

One is clearly suffering from some sort of infection.

Can anyone tell me what is causing this and whether there is anything we can do, or if it is time for the chop.

Thanks

[sandspider]

Doesn't look bad to me? Plenty of green left. I'd leave it be personally and see what happens...

[sabrina]

If you go onto Youtube there is quite a bit of advice on fruit tress. My trees have lots of brown spots and the few apples on them the same. Turns out it is scab and I have found an easy way to treat it so going to give that a try.

[Lesley Silvester]

If you go onto Youtube there is quite a bit of advice on fruit tress. My trees have lots of brown spots and the few apples on them the same. Turns out it is scab and I have found an easy way to treat it so going to give that a try.

I had to remove all the apples from one of my trees due to scab, this year. Sabrina, can you share the way to treat it, please.

[chrismahon]

There is a similar looking infection specific to chestnut trees, caused by a moth, so perhaps it is something along those lines? You may find that after the leaves have dropped and you've had a good hard frost it doesn't reappear next year. Certainly doesn't look serious at this stage and so no reason to fell the tree.

[sabrina]

If you go onto Youtube there is quite a bit of advice on fruit tress. My trees have lots of brown spots and the few apples on them the same. Turns out it is scab and I have found an easy way to treat it so going to give that a try.

I had to remove all the apples from one of my trees due to scab, this year. Sabrina, can you share the way to treat it, please.

The guy made up in a jug. 500ml of water, 1 teaspoon of veg oil up to 3 of bicardonate of soda and a drop of eco friendly washing up liquid. He then put it in a spray bottle and gave it a shake to mix well. I have not tried it yet as waiting for this weeks shopping to arrive with the eco dish washing soap. He says it also works on mildew for roses and other plants so will be giving it a try.

[pgkevet]

I've used dilute oil and eco mix for parasites like greenfly etc and works well... not sure it'd be much good for fungus. You can make up DIY bordeaux mixture (recipe on the web, ingredients from ebay) which I've used for blight on potato and tomato and fungus on my citrus. Or I suppose one could even try burning a sulphur smudge pot nearby on a windless day (i've sterilized my greenhouse that way.. sulphur chips in a scrap container and set fire to the sulphur.. just make sure you hold your breath until vacated the area.. nasty stuff)

[arobwk]

[member=188406]Briggsy from Gower[/member] - What do the young fruit look like? - i.e. are skins generally looking a bit scabby or spotty or cracked or otherwise just not right? 

[Zyg]

Wikipedia says, about Bordeaux mixture...

It is sprayed on plants as a preventative; its mode of action is ineffective after a fungus has become established.

[Briggsy from Gower]

Hi pgkeveet,

The tree has dropped all but one apple, which is in good shape.

Things don't appear to be getting any worse. He's got a terrible lean (I learned recently that people used to plant their small fruit at 45 degrees which explains the crazy nature of our orchard), however I think this winter I will install a good support, possibly the tree is just a bit stressed.

I don't think it is scab, but will keep a watchful eye out.

[pgkevet]

Wikipedia says, about Bordeaux mixture...

It is sprayed on plants as a preventative; its mode of action is ineffective after a fungus has become established.

When i used it on my spuds it was immediately aftet a blight watch warning and before the blight could take hold.
However my citrus is prone to getting nasty fluffy fungal areas developing early winter when put back into the citrus house because of the obvious reduction in ventilation when keeping it frost free. At that time it unquestionably stops the problem spreading to other parts of the trees.
The difference is between systemic and topical infection - a surface treatment can't stop something that already inside (unless it's absorbed too)

[arobwk]

 

He's got a terrible lean (I learned recently that people used to plant their small fruit at 45 degrees which explains the crazy nature of our orchard) ...

Interesting finding Briggsy' - where did that info' come from and did the source offer the reason why please ?  (Thinking aloud:  inclined away from or into prevailing wind perhaps to minimise rocking !?)

In passing, some other general comments:

I'm not going to offer thoughts on cause of the leaf “damage” - could be number of things including nutrient deficiency/ies.
But if it is scab, thorough cleaning away of debris (fallen apples/leaves) in early winter from around your tree/s will be essential.  AND, applying a high nitrogen solution, e.g diluted urine, to the ground before bud-break will, apparently, also help control scab for the coming season.  (I imagine repeat soil surface drenching through the spring would be required.)
I haven’t found an explanation yet for why/how nitrogen affects scab spores.  However, I’m wondering whether a urine-based spray onto the tree before and after flowering might also help (possibly with a white-oil mix to help the urea stick to bark and, in turn, leaf surfaces).  Even if a nitrogen-hit is an old-wives' tale and does not actually affect scab spores, nothing to lose by giving it a try.

As regards copper or sulphur mixes:  while organic, I seem to think they are not particularly user-friendly and there are some toxicity issues especially with repeated use I believe.  Luckily I have yet to feel the need to resort to either of these fungicides.

[pgkevet]

I wonder at a possibel association with cordon planting at 45deg?
Yes sulphur and copper solutions have a toxicity concern to the user. rare hobby use is diferent to sending out some underpaid chap without PPE to go spray several hundred acres by hand. IIRC some S American workers were referred to as parrot people after turning blue from copper sprays...

[Briggsy from Gower]

Hi, bit slow getting back to this thread I'm afraid.

The 45% is related to cordon planting yes. The logic is that the plant hormones move better through the branches at horizontal, or as close to it as you can get. All our small trees have been planted this way. The big ones not, as I assume it is not practical as they will eventually pull themselves over.

Have tidied away all the leaf fall so far and will do so again in the autumn. Will also have a go with the urine spray (or maybe duck pond water which is nitrogen turbo charged), worth a try. No other trees are suffering so I think this one may well be down to stress. His 45% is taking it's toll in soft ground as we have had some big winds this year. A sturdy support may be in order.