Author Topic: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide  (Read 13145 times)

bamford6

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bamford6

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Re: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide
« Reply #1 on: September 20, 2010, 02:57:20 pm »
Problems with Eggs                      Here is a round up of the main problems that can manifest with eggs.

Wind egg

This is a small egg with no yolk. It is fairly common when a pullet is first coming into lay. It is not important and can be ignored, unless the pullet continues to lay such eggs. Wind eggs can also occur in older hens if they are subject to sudden shock.

Greenish yolks

Acorns and the annual weed shepherd’s purse can both have the effect of turning the yolks green. Check the pasture and rake if necessary.

Eggs with pale yolks

Yolks are naturally paler in winter when the grass is not growing and there is nothing wrong with this. Customers prefer deeper yolks, however, often having the erroneous perception that such eggs are more ‘free-range and natural’. In fact, battery egg producers routinely give their birds feeds that contain artificial colouring agents to make the yolks deeper. More natural feeds contain grass meal and maize to improve the colour.

Eggs with vivid orange yolks

Too much yolk colour pigment in the feed, either artificial or natural. The Roche scale is the standard way of determining degrees of yellow-orange in the yolk.

Double-yolked eggs

This is fairly common with large eggs and is not a problem except where fertile eggs for incubation are involved. It is caused when two yolks are released into the oviduct at the same time and are then encased by one shell. It can also be caused by a sudden shock.

Egg with blood on the shell

This is often the result of straining on the part of the hen, where large eggs are involved. It may also be the case with a pullet first coming into lay. Avoid giving pullets too much artificial light until they are well grown before the commencement of lay.
If the shells have small spots of blood on them, rather than streaks, then suspect the presence of red mites. Treat with an anti-mite preparation from the vet or specialist suppliers.

Egg with blood spots inside

This is usually the result of blood escaping from the ovarian follicle and becoming embedded in the albumen. It can sometimes be the result of shock or stress and normally rights itself. There is some evidence that there is a hereditary tendency for this condition, so avoid breeding from such a hen.

Dirty eggs

The solution to this problem is obvious! Nest box material needs to be checked frequently and soiled material removed. Every effort needs to be made to stop the foraging area becoming muddy otherwise it is carried in on the hen’s feet to be transferred to the eggs. Ensure that eggs are collected frequently.

Fertile eggs

If hens are running with a cock the chances are that they will be laying fertile eggs. These should not be offered for sale for they cause offence to many consumers. Registered producers are required by the egg marketing regulations to produce eggs with, ‘a yolk that is free of foreign bodies’.

There is considerable misconception about this subject, with people making varied claims such as: ‘hens lay better when there is a cock with them’, and ‘fertile eggs are more healthy and nutritious’. In fact, the opposite is the case with both claims. With the former, there is a greater risk of disease transference, as well as physical damage to hens from the male’s spurs. With the latter, there is a greater risk of disease-transference into the egg.

Traditionally, breeding flocks and laying flocks were kept quite separate, as they still are with free-range flocks today. If you have your hens running with a cock and don’t object to eating fertile eggs, that is of course your own business, but selling them to others should be avoided.

Soft-shelled eggs

The first pullet egg may be soft-shelled until her system gets into its stride. If it continues, make sure that the birds are getting a balanced diet such as that provided by a commercial free-range or organic layer’s ration. Such feeds will usually contain calcium and phosphorus in the right ratio (around 3.5-4% calcium to 0.3% phosphorus). Providing a little crushed oyster-shell or calcified seaweed will ensure that any deficiency is rectified, for the birds will not take more than they require.

A shock can also make a hen lay a soft-shelled egg. My own observations are that if a flock is caught in a sudden shower of rain (for they are sometimes too dim to run for shelter), a few soft-shelled eggs are often produced the next day, but by the following day, they’re back to normal.

It is when soft-shelled eggs or misshapen ones are produced regularly that there need be a cause for concern. Veterinary advice should be sought. Conditions that adversely affect eggs include Newcastle disease (a notifiable disease to the authorities) and Infectious bronchitis, but there would be disease symptoms showing in the birds themselves if either of these was present. Hybrids are normally vaccinated against them.

Egg drop syndrome (EDS) is also a viral infection that results in a reduced number of eggs, as well as an increased number of pale-shelled eggs. Birds do recover from it but egg production may not get back to its previous level and there may still be a proportion of deformed ones produced. It can be vaccinated against.

Dark shells becoming pale

Shells that are normally dark brown may become lighter for a number of reasons, including stress, illness or lack of appropriate food. The main reason, however, is strong sunlight on the back of the hens. Ensure that there are enough shaded areas for them on their ranging area.

Eggs with watery albumen

This is more common in hot weather than at other times of the year. It is also more frequent in older hens. Occasionally it can be a reaction to vaccination. In this case, a multi-vitamin supplement in the water can help. Infectious bronchitis, referred to above may also be the cause in an unvaccinated flock. If the condition persists, veterinary advice should be sought.

Middle-banded egg

A sudden shock can cause a temporary halting within the egg-laying system. If there is an egg there at the time, it may end up with an extra band or ridge around it. They are normally nothing to worry about, as long as the flock is not subjected to regular disruptions.

Misshapen eggs

These differ from middle-banded eggs in having a range of distortions, including soft ends and uneven or ribbed surfaces. Thin patches or excessively chalky areas may also be seen. They are more common with older hens, but may also indicate a disease such as Infectious bronchitis or egg drop syndrome (either present or past). If the condition persists, veterinary advice should be sought.

There are obviously quite a few things that can go wrong with eggs, but it is also worth pointing out that it is a minority of eggs and chickens that are affected by problems. If chickens are well-fed and housed, in clean conditions and with access to plenty of fresh air and good ranging space, they are likely to remain healthy and productive for a long time.

Fleecewife

  • Joined May 2010
  • South Lanarkshire
    • ScotHebs
Re: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide
« Reply #2 on: September 20, 2010, 03:13:35 pm »
Thank you for that Gary
"Let's not talk about what we can do, but do what we can"

There is NO planet B - what are YOU doing to save our home?

Do something today that your future self will thank you for - plant a tree

 Love your soil - it's the lifeblood of your land.

bamford6

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Re: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide
« Reply #3 on: September 20, 2010, 03:17:07 pm »
General Chicken Health Product Suppliers:-

* I found The Domestic Fowl Trust do a wide range of health products which they sell on-line at the following link. This includes Flubenvet, Red Mite Repellant powder, Poultry Shield, Scaly Leg and Face cream, Poultry Spice, Respite, Wound powder, Apple Cider Vinegar. - Domestic Fowl Trust - health care products

* Ascott Smallholding Supplies also sell a wide range of poultry health products but don't seem to have Flubenvet but do have just about everything else you're ever likely to need - http://www.ascott.biz

* P & T Poultry supply a whole range of chicken health products. - http://www.pandtpoultry.co.uk

* SPR Centre - Animal & pet Feed Centre and Accessories - http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/spr/index.html

Flubenvet:-

Best Pet Pharmacy - http://www.bestpetpharmacy.co.uk

Farmrite - http://www.farmrite.co.uk

Pet Vet Care - http://www.petvetcare.co.uk/

The Domestic Fowl Trust - http://www.domesticfowltrust.co.uk/health2.html

bamford6

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Re: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2010, 03:19:43 pm »
Medication commonly used in the treatment of poultry.


**Please be aware that the Veterinary Medicines Regulations are being reviewed at the moment and new ones will come into force on 1st October 2010.

Some info about the categories of medicine:

POM-V Prescription only medicine – veterinarian. A medicine, to be supplied only on veterinary prescription, which must be prescribed (either orally or in writing) by a veterinarian to animals under his care following a clinical assessment, and which may be supplied by a veterinarian or pharmacist in accordance with the prescription. (Formerly POM products and a few P products.)

POM-VPS Prescription-only medicine – veterinarian, pharmacist, Suitably Qualified Person.
A medicine for food-producing animals (including horses), to be supplied only on veterinary prescription, which must be prescribed by a veterinarian, pharmacist or SQP (either orally or in writing) and which must be supplied by one of those groups of people in accordance with the prescription. Formerly PML livestock products, MFSX products and a few P products.)

NFA –VPS Non-food animal medicine – veterinarian, pharmacist, Suitably Qualified Person.
A medicine for companion animals which must be supplied by a veterinarian, pharmacist or Suitably Qualified Person. (Formerly PML companion animal products and a few P products.)

Flubenvet   **It is not licensed for use in ducks in UK.

~Category: POM-VPS

~Active ingredient:   Flubendazole 2.5%

~Treats: Endo parasites. (Worms).

**Flubenvet is not active against gapeworm and large tapeworm unless the dose is doubled. Not active against small tapeworm.
Egg withdrawal then applies for the course of the treatment and for one week after.
**Strictly speaking, the double dose should only be administered with the permission of a vet.

~Dosage:   5g (approx 1 rounded teaspoonful) per 4kg of feed. This ratio of Flubenvet to feed to be administered over 7 days.

~Egg withdrawal:   None if administered at the above rate.

Panacur   **Not licensed for use in Poultry in UK.

~Category: POM –VPS

~Active ingredient: Fenbendazole.

~Treats:   Endoparasites. Worms. Including the Taenia species of tapeworm.

~Dosage:   Varies. Be guided by the advice from your vet. Usually 10% Small Animal Suspension prescribed and dosage based on weight. Normally 1m per kg of body weight. Repeated a week later.

~Egg withdrawal:   Yes. ***See below.

Frontline    **Not licensed for use in Poultry in UK

Spray

~Category:   POM-V

~Active Ingredient: Fipronil 25%

~Treats:   Ectoparasites: ie Lice and mites.

~Dosage:   Advice varies. Follow the instructions given by your vet.

~Egg withdrawal.   Yes. ***See Below

Spot on

~Category:   NFA-VPS

~Active Ingredient:   Fipronil 10%

~Treats:   Ectoparasites. ie Lice and mites.

~Dosage:   Advice varies. Follow the instructions given by your vet.

~Egg Withdrawal: Yes. ***See below.

Ivermectin. **Not licensed for use in Poultry in UK

~Category: POM-VPS

~Active Ingredient: Ivermectin . Sold in UK as Ivomec, Xeno 200, Noromectin. Strengths vary.

~Treats: Ecto and endo parasites. Lice and mites. Worms, excluding tapeworm.

~Dosage: Advice varies. Follow the instructions given by your vet. Depends on weight of animal and type of Ivermectin prescribed.

~Egg withdrawal:   Yes. ***See below

Eprinex (Pour On) ** Not Licensed for use in Poultry in UK.

~Category: POM-VPS

~Active Ingredient:   0.5% Eprinomectin

~Treats: Ecto and endo parasites. Lice, mites, Worms excluding tapeworm.

~Dosage: Advice varies. Follow the instructions given by your vet.

~Egg withdrawal:   Yes. ***See below

Baytril   **Not licensed for use in hens producing eggs for human consumption.

~Category:   POM-V

~Active Ingredient:   Enrofloxacin 10% or 2.5%

~Treats:   Diseases of the respiratory and alimentary tract of bacterial or mycoplasmal origin.

~Dosage:   Advice varies. Follow the instructions given by your vet. Normally 10mg per kg body weight for 3-10 days. (10%)

~Egg withdrawal:   Yes. ***See below.

Tylan   **Not licensed for use in hens producing eggs for human consumption in injectable for, in UK, but is licensed in soluble form.

~Category:   POM-V

~Active Ingredient:   Tylosin

~Treats:   Diseases of the respiratory tract of bacterial or mycoplasmal origin.

~Dosage:   Advice varies. Follow the instructions given by your vet.

~Egg withdrawal:   Yes** See below.



***Info re Egg withdrawal.

Medications require different amounts of time to be eliminated entirely from the hens body.

Many drugs have an established withdrawal period because the appropriate testing has been done.

In many cases the egg withdrawal period is for the duration of the treatment plus one week after.

If drugs are prescribed by a vet “off label”” ie a non approved drug to treat a specific set of symptoms, based on clinical expertise, no specified withdrawal period may exist.

In this case, you may be advised to withdraw the eggs for 28 days.

Reasons for egg withdrawal.

Certain drugs are absorbed into the hens body. First into the blood stream and tissues, and is then eliminated via the liver and kidneys. Drugs are eliminated at different rates.

Substances can be deposited in eggs 10 days before the egg is laid so if using a medication for meat birds, it may be prudent to add 10 days to any specified withdrawal period.

Antibiotic residues in meat and eggs may cause a severe reaction in individuals who are allergic to antibiotics. A disturbance of the gut flora may also occur.

****Please note….this information is for general guidance only.

It is entirely your responsibility to seek the appropriate professional advice before administering any medication to your hens.
« Last Edit: September 20, 2010, 03:29:54 pm by bamford6 »

bamford6

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Re: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2010, 03:24:29 pm »
Worms - Treatment and Prevention
 

The advice given in this sticky is that of the authors and cannot be considered as professional advice. It is, however, drawn from the experience of a large number of forum members.

Worms in our chickens are of two general types

1. Gut worms These live in the chicken’s digestive system and cause the hen not to thrive in many ways. They can be picked up by your hen from other hens or from wild birds. Transmission is via faeces.
2. Lung Worm or Gape Worm These live in the chicken’s respiratory system and can be very quickly fatal by suffocation. They can be picked up by your hens eating slugs, snails and earth worms when free ranging.

Frequency of worming Most vets will recommend treating your chickens for worms every 4-6 months, but this is a decision for the individual to make.

Worming Products
There are a number of products available for use in treatment:
Flubenvet, Panacur and Diatom are the most commonly used by forum members.

Flubenvet Intermediate is the most commonly used by the forums members. It is a white powder containing 2.5% w/w flubendazole in 240g tubs. It is a broad spectrum anthelmintic (acting to expel or destroy parasitic worms) and is for oral administration, active against mature and immature stages of worms in the gastrointestinal and respiratory tract. Flubendazole has no adverse effect on egg laying and hatchability and there is no need to withdraw eggs from consumption.

Dosage and Administration of Flubenvet Forum members have employed a number of different methods of administering flubenvet. The correct dose rate is 1.2g Flubenvet Intermediate per kilo of feed and the chickens should be fed on this for 7 consecutive days. This is approximately the same proportion as Kate has recommended below. Large birds will eat more feed, smaller ones will eat less and so they get the correct dose for their body weight. It is a good idea to restrict treats to a very small amount in the afternoon while your hens are being wormed to ensure that they eat sufficient wormer. Some kitchen shops sell small measuring spoons which can be used to measure ½ or ¼ tsp.

Kate wrote:
I use 1tsp Flubenvet to 4kg layers meal but you could probably do 1/2 tsp to 2kgs as it's still an awful lot of feed. Give this over 7 days and discard any leftover.


Another method which some members use is to dose each bird individually each day for 7 days. It is not possible to weigh out the correct dose on domestic scales so they use a “pinch” (about 0.1- 0.2g) of flubenvet per bird per day for 7 days, and some members hide this in a grape which the hens will gobble up without hesitating, you can use the tip of a sharp knife to smear a little in the grapes, this should be plenty, but you do need to make sure each hen gets its grape (OK if you only have a few hens)  or add it to some porridgy food, mashed potato or whatever your girls like to eat  Some members administer it using a syringe with the Flubenvet mixed with a little water.

Panacur 10% is a wormer more commonly used for cats and dogs and birds which are not to be used for meat soon after dosing and are not used for table eggs. If you take your hens to the vets for worming they will probably be given Panacur (as many vets recommend it as a broad spectrum wormer), one dose followed by another 7 days later if there are signs of worms is in the faeces. Vets recommend withholding eggs for 7 days after the last dose of Panacur

Diatom is another name for Diatomaceous Earth, it is 100% natural and is mined from the ground. It is comprised of the fossilised remains of diatoms (a type of algae ). The diatoms have a hard shell made of ‘sharp’ non-crystalline silica, which does not decompose in the lakes, or sea where diatoms live. Thus over long periods of time large volumes of diatoms are exposed on the surface of dried out lakes. It can be added to animal feed at a rate of 5% to combat intestinal worms and can be considered an organic remedy as its action is physical rather than chemical but many members have found it unreliable for worming and the consensus of opinion on this forum is that Flubenvet is the wormer of choice. I use 20ml of apple cider vinegar to 1 litre of water. This is given once a month for 7 days, ( I start on the 1st of every month else I forget   )

Make sure you buy unrefined apple cider vinegar for horses and not the sort from Tescos etc. It can be bought from shops which sell horsey things. The Omlet shop also sells it.

The vinegar makes the chickens guts slighty acidic which worms and parasites (sp) do not like.You can get a wormer that you drop on the back of the neck (like cat/dog flea drops), and it works for mites too. It isn't licenced for poultry, but my chicken vet supplies it. It's called Ivermectin and you need the right dilution. The vet says that it's fine and there's no need to withhold the eggs.
« Last Edit: September 20, 2010, 03:27:14 pm by bamford6 »

bamford6

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Re: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide
« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2010, 03:29:00 pm »
IMPORTANT - Sneezy, coughing, sniffly chickens
 

There have been a few cases where chickens have developed sniffles, runny noses, coughs and sneezes. If you notice any of these symptoms in your recently delivered hens, please read the following message from Johannes at Omlet HQ....

I took a hen to the Vet, who is an avian specialist, on Friday to have it checked. He said that she had a mild cold that could be cleared up with antibiotics so we have medicated the entire flock. The condition of the flock here is good and we haven't had any deaths, but the vet said that moving the hens would stress them and this could exacerbate the cold symptoms by suppressing the immune system. Hopefully the treatment here should stop customers from having any problems. I think the best thing to do with people with sneezy hens is to ask them to call us, we will then probably advise them to take their hens to the Vet for a check up.

bamford6

  • Guest
Re: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide
« Reply #7 on: September 20, 2010, 03:36:27 pm »
First Aid Box    for youre girls and boys To stop feather pecking:
Gentian Violet (for antiseptic and to prevent feather pecking)
Anti-peck spray

General supplements to keep the girls in good condition
Garlic powder
Citricidal
Davinova C (calcium supplement)
Vaseline (it gets cold up here and the girls need their combs protecting from frostbite)
Liquid poultry tonic
poultry spice

Treatment for more unusual conditions
Liquid Paraffin (incase they have problems with their crop)
A syringe with no needle (for applying liquid paraffin directly) or you could use a pipette.
nail clippers to keep their claws trim

Poultry Spice-Helps to get their mineral levels and things up during moult.
Louse powder-Gets rid of lice when they have it.
Citricidal-You add it to their water when they have a cold/sneezes.
Latex gloves-I wear these when I'm louse powdering the chickens so it doesn't get in contact with my skin.
Rescue Remedy-Good for cleaning up wounds when mixed with warm water.
Vaeline-To stop the chickens getting frostbitten combs during winter. i lost 3 hens this week and it made me so mad becouse i dont no whot is wrong with them ..new yeres resalution vaccinate all stock
« Last Edit: September 20, 2010, 03:39:44 pm by bamford6 »

bamford6

  • Guest
Re: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide
« Reply #8 on: September 20, 2010, 03:42:57 pm »
Are my chickens healthy?



If you know if your chickens are healthy or not you can:

•    Treat sick chickens and prevent diseases spreading within your flock

•    Change management practices that are affecting the health of your chickens

•    Select only healthy chickens when buying new ones!

Factors contributing to health

There are three important factors that contribute to the health of your poultry: management, environment and type of poultry.

Management

• Intensive systems

Poultry (broilers for meat production and layers for egg production) are kept in houses

• Extensive systems

Poultry are free ranging, and scavenge for food. This system of keeping chickens is usually found in rural communities where chickens are used for both egg and meat production (dual purpose chickens)

Environment

Environmental factors that can influence health include:

• Type of house

• Type of floor

• Climate

Type of poultry

Poultry can be indigenous, dual purpose, commercial broilers or layers

How to know if your chickens are healthy

General appearance

When you start looking at your chickens, you should do so from a distance to observe their behaviour

• Do the chickens look healthy or are they sitting alone and looking puffed up?



• Are the chickens seeking food to eat, walking or looking for shelter during cold or very hot weather?

• Are the hens laying eggs regularly?

• Are the chickens the same size, or are some smaller than others?

 

Look at different parts of the body from head to tail

You should look at all the different parts of the body from head to tail.



Head and neck
Comb/wattles

• The wattles and comb of a healthy chicken should be a red colour

• A blue or black colour is not normal

• There should be no cuts or swellings

 

 
Eyes

• The eyes should be round and open with a sparkle in them

• Eyes of sick chickens are usually closed or have an oval shape

• The eyes may be a dull white colour or they can be closed if there is a discharge of thick fluid

Nostrils

• The nostrils should be clean and open for the chicken to breathe normally

•    There should not be any fluid running from the nostrils. This can cause crusts that can totally block the nostrils, and the chickens will breathe with a snoring sound if the nostrils are closed in this way

• The area between the eyes and the nostrils (sinuses) should not be swollen
 

Beak

• The beak should be a normal shape. There should not be any parts of the beak missing, unless it is a layer (the suppliers trim the top part of the beak to prevent layers from pecking each other in the cages)

• The beak (usually closed) is open and the chickens breathe very fast when the nostrils are blocked, the chickens are under stress or the temperature is very high

• The beak should not feel soft and rubbery

Neck

• The neck should be strong and straight to keep the head high. It should not be weak and twisted

 

 
 

 
Body

Feathers 

• The entire body should be covered by feathers except for some of the indigenous breeds where the neck and chest may be bare. The feathers protect the body against extreme temperatures

• The feathers are normally flat against the body and are only raised when the chicken sleeps, in cold weather or when it is sick

• Other chickens or the chicken itself should not be pulling out the feathers

• The feathers should be clean because chickens clean themselves every day. Feathers that are very dirty with droppings around the vent may be an indication of diarrhoea

• You should check between the feathers for ticks and lice. Ticks are usually found around the head and lice on the feathers of the neck and wings

 

Condition

• While the chicken is in your hands it is a good idea to evaluate the condition of the chicken by feeling the muscles around the breastbone

• For a healthy chicken the muscle covers the breastbone

• If you can feel the breastbone very clearly with little muscle covering on each side it may be an indication that the chicken is sick and has not been eating for a while or that it is not receiving enough food

 

 
Healthy chicken   
 
The chicken is sick or is not receiving enough food   
Legs

• The legs should be strong, straight and smooth

• The colour of the legs is usually yellow

• There should not be any cuts, swellings or crusts on the legs

• The chickens should walk normally without limping   
Tail and vent

• The tail and vent area should be clean and the feathers should be soft and fluffy

• A swelling can be an indication of an egg that cannot pass

• Caked faeces could be an indication of diarrhoea

 
Healthy chicken   
Diarrhoea
If there are signs that chickens are si ck

• If they are chickens you are thinking to buy, do not buy them

• Separate sick chickens from healthy chickens

• Get advice from a veterinarian or an animal health technician

acresareace123

  • Joined Mar 2010
Re: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide
« Reply #9 on: September 20, 2010, 03:45:24 pm »
hi, thanks for all that info, very useful

i have light sussex who seem to have got red rashes on their legs, between toes and red scales like something out of alien nation, all in the last day or so, some worse than others, none are lame or bothered in the slightest

 theyre on the yard and grass and in of a night

could this be scaly leg? ive hibiscrubbed and vaselined

bamford6

  • Guest
Re: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide
« Reply #10 on: September 20, 2010, 03:48:46 pm »
Advice with 1) giving Baytril and 2) Are the chickens cold?
 

Hello, everyone.
Any advice you can give/experience you can offer on the following greatly appreciated.
1. Hetty, lovely ex batt, sneezed twice on Wednesday and her breathing was just about audible - nasal on Thursday morning. Late working last night so didn't see them Thursday night but shut them in the Eglu house after dark. Let them out this morning and Hetty's breathing very audible. Her body was heaving like a bellows.
Took her to the vet at once, who gave her a shot of antibiotic and has give me two prefilled syringes of Baytril to use on Saturday and Sunday. She had a temperature of 104 but is still chatting to me and she hasn't stopped eating. The vet said it could go either way and the others might/might not catch whatever it is.
Baytril tastes awful, apparently and the vet wished me luck. What is the best way that you have found to administer it?

2. In the eglu, the bottom tray is lined with newspaper and I put Cosy Coop in the nesting part. I don't usually put anything else in the house. The run is on grass, with moving to fresh part of the lawn each month. I have only recently taken to shutting them in the house at night because they get really impatient if I don't let them out at daybreak. Because of all the recent rain, I have covered the run in corrugated clear plastic and a waterproof groundsheet. They don't have a perch yet, though, so I am worried about being on damp ground. So:
- do you think I need to put something else in the house to help keep them warm at night?
- how essential is a perch to chicken health?

If you can think of anything else that might help or think I am doing something wrong, let me know.

bamford6

  • Guest
Re: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide
« Reply #11 on: September 20, 2010, 03:52:53 pm »
yes it could be i use a spray on there legs .the problem is we dont no all that there is to no .the damp wether at the moment will make things worse for the chickins .in winter time not meney problems but humid damp wether is no good

acresareace123

  • Joined Mar 2010
Re: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide
« Reply #12 on: September 20, 2010, 05:16:08 pm »
thanks very much, they were on grass when we got alot of rain, so was thinking it might be that, and the damn wild birds nicking their food so have moved onto the yard for a few days to see and drying off, thanks very much for replying :)

Sharondp

  • Joined Jun 2009
Re: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide
« Reply #13 on: September 20, 2010, 05:54:17 pm »
Very useful info Gary - thank you  :)

knightquest

  • Joined May 2010
  • Birmingham
    • Knight Pet Supplies
Re: ThePoultrySite Quick Disease Guide
« Reply #14 on: September 20, 2010, 08:35:28 pm »
Great info Gary. Thanks

Ian
Ian (me), Diane (my wife) and 4 dogs. Ollie (Lab mix) , Quest (Malamute), Gazer and Boris (Leonbergers)

 

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