Recent Posts

1
Poultry & Waterfowl / Re: 14 years and five months
« Last post by Richmond on June 30, 2026, 09:59:30 am »
That's an excellent age. Our oldest was 13, a crossbreed bantam who produced many many offspring, whether we wanted her to or not  ;D. She even laid a few eggs in her final year (distinctive from all the other hens so knew they were her eggs). It was truly a sad day when she went.
2
Poultry & Waterfowl / Re: Goslings and danger from predatory birds
« Last post by Richmond on June 30, 2026, 09:52:48 am »
They should be ok after about 5 weeks. Do you have any adult geese you can introduce them to? They will be safe within the flock once accepted.
3
Sheep / Re: Advice on breeds
« Last post by SallyintNorth on June 29, 2026, 02:07:54 pm »
Just wrote an epic post on overwintering sheep, and Cloudflare then lost the lot.

I'll try again (this time! I will put a copy in paste buffer before pressing "Post"!)

Check your abattoir can take home kills in December / January.  Ours won't, and any for late Oct, Nov, or early Jan need to be booked in months in advance.  (Like, in July.)

If your priority by December is the meat, and you can get a slot at the abattoir, I'd go for something that'll be ready in December and send them off then.  Any sheep will stagnate if not lose condition once the grass loses its nutritional value.

As a generalisation, commercial types will lose condition once the colder and/or wetter weather comes, unless supplemented and given good dry shelter.

If you'd rather have them grazing for longer, then you need something won't go backwards and ideally can grow through winter on just forage.

The traditional choice for overwintering is Cheviot.  Lambed in late April / May on the hills, sold as weanlings late August/Sept, at that point looking like bunny rabbits and fetching more than fat lambs three times their size in the primestock ring next door.  They make good use of anything and by New Year are impressive "butchers lambs"  fetching top dollar as "spring lamb" until the first of that year's crop hit the marts. Dunno if you'd get any around here though, and they usually don't get sold in small numbers.  If they do go through the marts here, you might be able to get one of the buyers to sell a small handful of his/her purchase on to you at the mart.

Primitives like Hebs and Shetlands will keep condition in the circs you describe, but won't grow much once winter hits and would be a lot bigger - and tastier - after a second summer. 

Over the border in Cornwall, around Bodmin, there are lots of Herdwick crosses and Swaledale crosses, which would cope with the circs you describe.  Pure Herdies traditionally get three or even four summers, and Swales two summers, to develop the trademark flavour, but crosses might work for you.  (But avoid ones that look like Mules, they'd likely be too soft to be putting anything on over winter.)

I'm not as familiar with the sheep on Dartmoor, but I'm guessing there will be Blackfaces and crosses thereof, which would be similar to Swales and crosses, and should be a bit meatier.

I don't have personal experience of Devon & Cornwall Longwools, but there are plenty of them, and crosses of them, around Bodmin, and they should do what you want I would think.
4
Sheep / Re: Advice on breeds
« Last post by humphreymctush on June 28, 2026, 06:28:14 am »
It doesn’t really matter which breed. My advice would be to get whatever is available locally and at a reasonable price.
5
Marketplace / Re: goose or gander wnted
« Last post by Rosemary on June 27, 2026, 11:25:25 am »
Poor old goose. Hopefully, someone will have a pal for her. :bouquet:
6
Marketplace / goose or gander wnted
« Last post by Bandodle on June 26, 2026, 11:12:04 am »
WANTED
a goose or gander. My old Gander has just died leaving his partner very lonely. She doesn't understand where her mate has gone. :'(
Pretty much any age accepted.

I stay in the Midmar, area

Hopefully someone can help my poor goose.
7
Sheep / Re: Introducing Wethers to Tups - Advice Appreciated
« Last post by Bishybarneybee on June 26, 2026, 06:11:00 am »
Thank you Sally, that's very helpful. I will wait until it's a bit cooler to move them.

I've been getting some database errors too. At the moment I have to switch off WiFi and use mobile data to access the site and that seems to work.
8
Sheep / Re: Introducing Wethers to Tups - Advice Appreciated
« Last post by SallyintNorth on June 24, 2026, 12:28:57 am »
Sorry it's been a while before anyone replied.  The forum has been giving me database errors most of the time, I try to reply to your post every so often and finally tonight it's let me! 

I've never had a problem combining wethers and tups.  I usually run them alongside each other for a few days, then open the gate.  Obviously, if there was any aggression at the fence line then yes, one would use the same tactics as combining tups.
9
Wildlife / Re: Swallows 2026
« Last post by Penninehillbilly on June 18, 2026, 12:39:58 am »
Its good of you to try and shade the area, just something about them is so special.
Luckily we put a layer of insulation to prevent condensation, hope ours are OK up there.

We are only allowed in the barn for short periods of time, I don't do too bad, as my third is walled off up to about 3M, but husbands stuff is below the nest area.
They do have a narrow access, but as soon as I open the door and the stable type door top, they whizz in and out of there, sometimes sometimes having to make avoidance manouvres if we meet in the doorway  :)
10
Sheep / Introducing Wethers to Tups - Advice Appreciated
« Last post by Bishybarneybee on June 17, 2026, 10:46:05 pm »
I have two tups who live together in a "Batchelor Pad" field. Although it's my smallest field it can sustain several more sheep.

I have 2 or 3 Hogget weathers I would like to put with the tups to make better use of the pasture until they are ready to go in the autumn.

I know you have to be careful putting tups together and pen them up closely to get used to each others scent so they aren't so aggressive.

Do you need to do the same introducing Wethers or will they be more submissive as they don't have the testosterone in their systems to make them so aggressive?

I have never done this before so would very much appreciate any advice on the best way to introduce them. Thank you

© The Accidental Smallholder Ltd 2003-2026. All rights reserved.

Design by Furness Internet

Site developed by Champion IS