Author Topic: gabion baskets (Read 5281 times)

Izzy · « **on:** April 27, 2011, 08:01:11 pm »

My oil tank sat on a slope above an inadequately built dry stane wall. I've pulled the wall apart and stacked the stones. I've got three 1m x 1m x 1m gabion baskets (flat pack) plus a coil of steel wire.

I dug into the bank and installed one basket. It took more stones than I thought to fill. But that problem can be solved. I realise now I should have enquired here before I started. Any advice?

Can anyone tell me about tying the edges of the baskets? I've just been making wee twists of wire and fixing them every 6" or so. Should they be closer together? Doubled up? I really don't want the whole lot to start slumping in a few years time.

Making the wire twists is a bit fiddly. I'm sure some fencing tools would be useful. Is there anyone here in West Stirlingshire who'd lend me industrial cutters/pliers?

Also the bank itself is not quite a metre high. So my filled gabion is proud of the surface. It doesn't look great but should be solid enough. Structurally, should I dig down a few inches in order to have the top flush? Digging, shovelling and disposing of the soil involves an uphill wheelbarrow journey to the trailer and then the tip.

All advice very welcome. Thanks

Iz

robert waddell · « **Reply #1 on:** April 27, 2011, 08:46:50 pm »

there is an art to filling gabion baskets it is no use just throwing the stones in they have to be built in or it looks a mess
the wire is it the proper wire fencing wire is no use
if it slumps it is due to poor stone building or the ground giving way
reduce the hight of the basket level with the banking dont cut the basket just fold the surplus down
the only tools you will need are wire cutters and a hammer for packing

ShaunP · « **Reply #2 on:** April 28, 2011, 09:24:31 pm »

The important part is the additional bracing from the front to back face to stop the bulging. The fo;;owing is an extract from the manufacturers.

Internal windlass bracing ties 2 per 1sqm at 1/3rd points vertically and
mid point horizontally on 1m deep units and at mid height and mid point
horizontally on 0.5m deep units.
Adjacent units to be jointed by continuous lacing on the vertical and to
the horizontal joints at front and rear of coursing joints.
Units shall be filled such that the mesh lid bears onto the rock fill. The lid
shall be wired down on all joints and across the diaphragms.

As already said, you must use the proper wire. Fencing wire will not last!!!

Izzy · « **Reply #3 on:** April 29, 2011, 10:14:36 am »

Thank you for the advice. The wire was supplied with the baskets. It does not look like high tensile wire - if anything it is less substantial.

From the internet I had read about internal bracing with a windlass and so I have done that. The site I looked at said only one was required which should be enough since I am not stacking the baskets on top of one another.

I have made some effort into packing the baskets but have not been chipping the stones into shape. I have just been putting right-angles into corners and edges along the front edge, and staggering them like bricks. I want it to be solid but I am not too worried about appearances - they are pretty industrial after all. I will be keeping my wheelie & recycling bins in front of them.

Thank you again for the advice.

Declan · « **Reply #4 on:** May 07, 2011, 04:24:41 pm »

About the look of them compelted gabions. You can plant heathers in them with a little soil on top. The more expereinced on this site might be able to suggest some plants that might do well in those dry conditions.

Declan