Smallholders Insurance from Greenlands

Author Topic: Is Ammonium sulphamate compost activator a useful tool ???  (Read 6698 times)


  • Joined Jun 2013
  • South Wales .Carmarthenshire. SA18
Is Ammonium sulphamate compost activator a useful tool ???
« on: June 26, 2014, 01:27:37 pm »

 I have a large compostng problem and it's been aided by the judicious use of Ammonium sulphamate  the plant life in my garden that i didn't want has now been rendered into quality compost that will notr reemerge .  read on and make your own judgement

Cornell university USA also has an interesting set of notes about it .

 My 25 Kg sack cost me 103 delivered to my door .

It should do wonders for the Japanese knot weed and horsetail that always seemed to come back time and time again from the smallest sliver that survived being dug up , weed killed with round up hot composted or burnt off .
First signs at day five after use are very very encouraging.

The information below is how it used to be used sucessfully in days gone by .
The info is just for your point of interest only of course as the document indicates

In the EEC Ammonium sulphamate, is no longer licensed to use as a tree, stump or weed killer. We are not selling it for that application and you should not use it for that purpose.

This information is supplied for your research into past practice.

Standing trees
Use an axe to make a ring of downward sloping cuts . Pack the sloping cuts with crystals at the rate of 60g per 10cm of the trunk diameter.
Newly felled: apply the crystals whilst the sap is still leaking from cut area, at rate of 60g per 10cm trunk diameter. Cover with polythene cap or bag.

Older stumps: cut, drill or axe to live tissue and treat as above.
Suckers or regrowth: protect surrounding area and apply a solution of 200g in 1 litre of water.
Shrubs, bushes, ivy and brambles
Spray every 2 square metres of foliage at rate of 100g in 1 litre of water. Growth over 1 metre in height should be cut to near ground level and crystals applied to stumps or root area sprayed.

Rhododendron, laurel and hawthorn
Cut down and immediately treat stumps as above or spray stump and root area with 400g in litre of water until thoroughly drenched. For best results apply in May or June.

Common perennials: 100g per 1 litre of water for every 2 square metres.
Tough weeds such as nettles, dock, ground elder, mares tail and couch grass; 200g per litre of water for every 2 square metres.

Japanese knotweed: Cut down and immediately apply crystals (60g per 2.5cm diameter of stem) or spray stem and root area at 400g per litre of water for every 2 square metres
For best results spray April to September when rain is not forecast.

Old Tips common even for most new weed supressants .
Bigger areas of weeds: it is more economical to mow or cut the area and clear the debris before spraying the area.

Individual weeds: Use a small hand spray directed accurately whilst protecting adjacent plants or apply by brush.

Protect valued plants: Protect valued plants and their roots within the area to be treated. Do not use on ground under which roots of valuable trees or shrubs extend.
Imperial conversion table changes from the old imperial measures to the metric measures  which was introduced as far back as 1973

Metric to Imperial
60g per 10cm oz per 1 inch
60g per 2.5cm 2oz per 1 inch
100g per litre per 2 square metres 1lb per gallon per 100 sq feet
200g per litre per 2 sq metres 2lb per gallon per 100 sq feet
400g per litre per 2 sq metres 4lb per gallon per 100 sq feet

 I find these old information sheets highly interesting .. a far cry from the stuff we find these days .
Strong belief , triggers the mind to find the way ... Dyslexia just makes it that bit more amusing & interesting


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