Author Topic: electric fencing for sheep (Read 3856 times)

kanisha · « **on:** February 03, 2018, 08:00:07 am »

Have three strand ( tape) electric fencing in situ for grazing ( horned ouessants) . I have generally only electrified two of the three tapes and that is usually enough but after a couple of break outs by a persistant young ram am thinking I need to electrify all three. Am also considering replacing current box ( wired in to mains) and am wondering if i was to include the third tape would I need to go for a box with more umph.... ( non technical term ....) what do i need to consider when looking at output to ensure all three tapes provide enough of a deterrent?

Tim W · « **Reply #1 on:** February 03, 2018, 08:17:15 am »

http://www.rappa.co.uk/advice-centre/22-energiser-guide

here's a link to a guide for 'umph' ratings required

chrismahon · « **Reply #2 on:** February 03, 2018, 09:27:28 am »

You may find the weakness is in the earth circuit, rather than the energiser. Have you tested the voltage all around the fencing?

shep53 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 03, 2018, 12:50:06 pm »

Normally mains energisers are the most powerful and consistant , earth rods certainly affect power , personally I only use tape as the top wire as a visual aid , the other 2 wires either poly or better steel . IT is very difficult to stop a sheep once it has the habit of escaping , does it go through the same place every time ( may be able to stop ) or just anywhere it likes ?

kanisha · « **Reply #4 on:** February 03, 2018, 01:58:04 pm »

Have worked out that he is going under the bottom tape as its the only one not electrified. Since switching the electrification to the bottom tape that has stopped the break outs so the fence is a deterrent. The older rams don't bother ( they have plenty of grazing) and with larger horns are careful about what size space they try to squeeze through anyway. This guy was originally pushed through by a more dominant ram hitting on him constantly ( hes now gone) but the habit remained.

I was concerned that if I switched electrification to all three tapes that the power would be dissipated between three tapes not two and be less effective ( no idea, is that how electricity works.. seem to remember about increased resistance?) so was thinking a box that reflected the greater amount of tape to cover would be a better long term solution?
The box is old and will need to be replaced at some point. will check voltage over various points but from inadvertant self testing it seems to get to the ends...!

Tim W thank you for the guide very helpful will need to look a few things up!

shep53 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 03, 2018, 06:04:53 pm »

You can buy simple fence testers on ebay for under £10 , sounds like you've stopped him

watty watt · « **Reply #6 on:** February 20, 2018, 10:49:14 pm »

I wouldn't worry about number of strands: our energiser is battery powered and does miles of fencing. Just make sure there is a good earth. I replaced the leads supplied and put on heavy croc clips/ soldered connections. And make sure there's no earth leakage through grass or vegetation.

Backinwellies · « **Reply #7 on:** February 21, 2018, 07:33:47 am »

The bottom strand is always going to be the one that needs to shock .... sheep follow their noses as they graze .... chances are their fleeces would insulate from shocks on back anyway.

kanisha · « **Reply #8 on:** February 21, 2018, 07:52:53 am »

so far no more breakouts :-) will wait for a break in the weather ...please! and then check though from end to end

TonyG · « **Reply #9 on:** February 21, 2018, 09:17:11 am »

I'd be very wary of using electric fencing with horned sheep, there is a previous post regarding this https://www.accidentalsmallholder.net/forum/index.php?topic=65468.msg531605#msg531605

farmers wife · « **Reply #10 on:** February 21, 2018, 10:53:12 am »

we run Rappa system. Worth buying testers (£20) check if running well if so don't go buying more stuff.

Have spent a lot of time studying the problems and the conclusion is after 7 strands (yes 7) of the most expensive wire. You need to take out the leaders. Once you take out the ones that wont respect the system your problems are solved. You cant teach some they will charge through and the rest will follow. Now run 3 wires. Certain breeds don't like wire and best to do it from lambs.

The line of grass needs to be short for the bottom wire otherwise you lose the charge. We put in steel pin in ground for the earth.

kanisha · « **Reply #11 on:** February 21, 2018, 11:36:23 am »

Quite agree Tony G . I'm not hugely comfortable with it but its temporary fencing on land adjacent to my own which allows me and the owner to benefit. I don't have another solution that will allow me to do this. The rams are in at night or when i'm away and can't keep a regular eye on them. I used to use a little paddock for the youngsters with a small section of electric fencing to train them to leave the tape well alone certainly i've had more problems since i've had to stop using it. How ever usually once learnt the youngsters don't bother. There are deterrents on the other side of the fence such as chasse ( hunt ) dogs - a popular pastime here during the winter.

pharnorth · « **Reply #12 on:** February 21, 2018, 02:31:46 pm »

I would agree that sliding under the bottom wire is the most common form of breakout so essential that is electrified. The earthing is the most important aspect of maximising the power if you are already on mains. Living in a dry area I have found that they key is to have good multiple earth stakes and water them in the summer.