Author Topic: Just electric fencing? (Read 4863 times)

Dans · « **Reply #15 on:** March 15, 2017, 06:53:37 pm »

I was going to ask what breeds were kept by the people who have had success with electric on its own.

Has anyone managed to keep Castlemilk in with just electric? If it was subdividing I wouldn't be too worried but I'm pretty sure that if the ewes got out there would be he'll to pay with this guy. I think I'm gonna have to walk away from it and hope that I can find some other grazing.

Dans

shep53 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 15, 2017, 09:03:24 pm »

You could buy sheep /pig net 6x 100mt circa £720 or cattle net which is taller 1.15 m against 0.8mt 12 x 5mt circa £876 then buy 100 posts . You could then put a post every 5mt or so and tack the net to the posts , if necessary put a single electric wire on top if you think it needed . Then if you loose the field just dismantle the fence roll up and take away , you can then reuse or even sell . I have done this on arable land in first year grass for grazing lambs .

BenBhoy · « **Reply #17 on:** March 15, 2017, 10:09:23 pm »

Keep all mine behind 3 strand. No bother. Any Steve mcqueens get culled.

Tim W · « **Reply #18 on:** March 16, 2017, 07:06:04 am »

Have used the electric system with Swales, no worries ----not sure if they have as bad a reputation as the Castle's for escaping ?

harmony · « **Reply #19 on:** March 16, 2017, 09:11:17 am »

If you are not going to be able to sleep at night don't bother.

Fieldfare · « **Reply #20 on:** March 17, 2017, 10:29:55 pm »

Castlemilks walk through electric fencing and will eventually get their horns trapped on the wire and pull it all down.

bazzais · « **Reply #21 on:** March 17, 2017, 11:19:52 pm »

I hate electric fence takes ages to train everything to respect it.

Dans · « **Reply #22 on:** March 18, 2017, 12:06:22 am »

Thank you all. I think it's decided that we won't be using electric fencing. I'll give the farmer a call on Monday and let him know it's a no go. The putting up loose fencing might have worked but he has said he likes things to be done properly on his farm so I doubt that will fly with him. I'll keep hunting for more land.

Dans

Coximus · « **Reply #23 on:** March 21, 2017, 12:23:09 pm »

I have castlemilks and swales and hebrideans and I can assure, 100% that they will stay behind 3 strand wire, on a windy moor, for 3 months without escaping.

Simple rule - MAKE SURE THE Energizer is putting out 2Joule minimum.

A good hard shock and they dont even graze within 6 inches of the wire.
I find cheap energizers putting out less than 2Joule and the odd sheep will test the wire and get through, or push its head through and pull a wire.

The key is making sure the sheep KNOW wire hurts.
From a young age train them.

Most of my sheep wont even cross bale twine for weeks on end they're that convinced it will sting.

Good energizer.

GOOOD Wire. DO noty bother with rope or tape, get good low OHM resistance wire, and just make a 2.5ac block and move it round the field.

I get lots of short 3 month grazing winter lets and offers to tidy up arable fields, shooting moors, 25 miles in each direction and I can trust my electric fencing -

http://www.electricfence-online.co.uk/shop/electric-fencing/energisers-battery-powered/hotline-raptor-energiser-6v-12v-1081653.html

Similar to the one I use.

At 3 joules the sheep will get one shock and wont try again.

Dans · « **Reply #24 on:** March 31, 2017, 02:03:21 pm »

Thank-you all. We decided not to go for it as I'm pretty sure I'd just he worried all the time. The neighbour across the road has offered us half an acre to graze and we're looking cat reducing our numbers of breeding ewes.

Dans