If you make a U-shaped pipe and pour water in one end, water will come up just as high in the other.
Yes, that's right - it's how a builder's level pipe works, for instance.
And if you fill a tube with approx 3 liters of water, and another with 68, the 68 will be more work to move around.
OK, bear with me here. If I dive 5m down in a small swimming pool, the pressure my ears feels is the same as if I dive 5m down in a big swimming pool, right? Pressure = height x density x acceleration due to gravity - the amount of water present doesn't matter at all, only it's depth.
Beyond that, it's messing with my brain as to how to explain it simply, but trust me - if it wasn't like that, I'd have lost my job a long time ago. Edit: Try this - it's not the weight of the water in the hose that matters, it's the flowrate you move it at. So, ignoring frictional losses for now, moving 1 litre per second of water in a 1" diameter pipe takes exactly the same energy as moving 1 litre per second in a 10" diameter pipe. (Actually, even if you DID take account of the frictional losses, it would take
less energy to move the 1 litre per second in the big pipe than the small one, even though the amount of water held up in the big pipe weighs more). I don't know if that helps, but anyway.....
I understand you're an engineer Womble. So the answer is. . . ??
Without overcomplicating it, you don't need a massive pump, because you don't need a massive flowrate. 5m of height gain is literally 5m of water head (or half a bar, if the pump is quoted that way). So I'd go with something which has a "dead-head" static pressure increase at the left hand end of the pump curve of around 10m (or 1 barg) - basically 5m plus a bit more for luck, and to overcome frictional losses. If it ended up being a bit more than that then fair enough - it will just pump at a higher flowrate.
The harder question is how to control it, since you won't want the pump running all the time, and it's hard to put a level sensor in the trough, because it's a long way away. The easiest solution for that is to do exactly what naturelovingfarmer suggests, and have a small header tank on stilts (assuming the layout will allow that - you'd be aiming for the level in the the header tank at the low part of its cycle just before the pump turns on to still be a bit higher than the water level in the trough). Then you have a submersible pump in the well, which runs on a float switch in the header tank to keep the header tank continually topped up. The outlet of the header tank then flows under gravity, as NLF says, to the trough, which would have a standard ball-cock arrangement. As long as you get all of the air out of the long pipe, that will work just fine. It will still freeze in the winter though!
HTH!