[tommytink]

Looking for a clear wormer and wondering which is best for ewes and lambs?

Someone I know uses Cydectin but this is twice the price of others and not sure why?? Is it because it provides protection against parasites for a period of time as well as killing down any that may already be present?

I was looking at Oramec or Noromectin, both of which also cover nasal bots which Cydectin doesn’t.

Any recommendations?

[twizzel]

As I understand persistent wormers shouldn’t be used routinely, more for helping to reduce worm burdens on pasture. I‘ve used oramec no problems. I also look for what comes in a reasonable sized container for a small flock as it’ll probably go out of date before you finish the bottle. The sqp at your local store should be able to advise what one is better for you as they are trained to sell these wormers.

[tommytink]

Cydectin would be a persistent wormer, right? The guy in the co-op said it remains in their system for a period of time and will be affective against anything new picked up if they’re moving pasture.
I went for the Oramec as it had a longer expiry, and also treated nematodirus and the nasal bots.
Someone has told me my lambs are not weighty as I haven’t wormed them, and that I need to do it as they have no natural resistance as opposed to ewes which do. I think in part it’s a different breed of sheep as well and he’s used to packing weight on Texel crosses. Mine won’t be as big but there definitely isn’t much meat on them...

[Possum]

The best thing to do would be to take a mixed faecal sample to your vets. They will be very happy to check if there are any worms present and can usually give you the results on the same day. If you need a wormer it will depend on the type of worms present and your vet will discuss the various options with you. There is no point in spending money on a wormer if it is the wrong one!

[twizzel]

Yes cydectin injectable is persistent (1% and 2%) hence the very long meat withdrawal which also pretty much rules out using it on lambs going for meat. Also needs injecting behind the ear.


Agree though, you should get your vet to do an egg count before worming. Don’t go by what other people tell you, or you’ll end up worming them when they may not even need it, and end up with wormer resistance quicker than you can say lamb chops.

[tommytink]

I understand FECs for ewes but thought maybe I should’ve done the lambs and I’d been remiss. They have all had a dose recently due to tapeworm anyway.

[twizzel]

FEC for everything- ewes, lambs, rams    it’s really useful on growing lambs especially as they can be affected by coccidiosis (which can have similar symptoms as worms- scour, ill thrift) which won’t be touched if you use a wormer, which would therefore increase the chance of wormer resistance and not actually treat the underlying cocci. So yes... fec everything. I need to do my ewes and lambs soon 

[tommytink]

On a slightly different matter, I wormed my Radnor lambs with a white wormer for tape. One of them still has it, I know which one as I’ve seen her have a pooh and there were still segments. I appreciate the dose might have accidentally gone down the wrong hole, or not have been taken down completely enough to be effective. Should I dose again? I’m thinking yes as it obviously hasn’t worked on her (whereas the rest seem cleared of it)?

[shep53]

Since you are saying that you are going to worm all ewes & lambs with Oramec ?? then don't worry about the tapeworms . Have you done a FEC  on the ewes & lambs separately to see if they need worming ??

[bj_cardiff]

I would just use the wormer they recomend or one of the cheaper ones (Oramec), clear wormer is Ivermectin so the active ingredient is the same in all of them.

I totally understand why people would do worm counts and don't disagree. However for me, I find routine worming of the lambs is important while they are growing fast through the summer months.

[tommytink]

I got the Oramec primarily for my Radnor ewes who hadn’t been wormed since January and their poohs weren’t looking too good. When I called vet before about it they just said first instance worm with an alternative type to last time.
The lambs have just had the one dose of white wormer so far and primarily because the tape worm was evident. SCOPS doesn’t show clear ones deal with tape...

[twizzel]

I would just use the wormer they recomend or one of the cheaper ones (Oramec), clear wormer is Ivermectin so the active ingredient is the same in all of them.

I totally understand why people would do worm counts and don't disagree. However for me, I find routine worming of the lambs is important while they are growing fast through the summer months.

I wormed my lambs just over a month ago with a white wormer. FEC this week showed no worm eggs... so regular worming is only going to increase resistance?

[bj_cardiff]

I wormed my lambs just over a month ago with a white wormer. FEC this week showed no worm eggs... so regular worming is only going to increase resistance?

Well there is routiene worming and routiene worming isn't there.. I would of thought after 4 weeks if they had picked up enough worms to be an issue there is a bigger problem going on. Overgrazed fields or a HUGE worm burden on them! I tend to do mine evey 8 weeks or so and usually try to swap between clear and a different group - yellow at the moment. So dosed at around 3 months, then at 5 months the largest are usually ready so what doesn't get sent off will be wormed and I'd do the same at 7 months and probably start feeding them up at the same time.

if they are all thriving then I don't see any point in worming for the sake of it, if a few start being messy and just look a bit lean, then I'd worm them.

[Buttermilk]

FEC.  This is how I found out that I have ivermectin resistant worms so using Oramec here is a no no.

[SallyintNorth]

On a slightly different matter, I wormed my Radnor lambs with a white wormer for tape. One of them still has it, I know which one as I’ve seen her have a pooh and there were still segments. I appreciate the dose might have accidentally gone down the wrong hole, or not have been taken down completely enough to be effective. Should I dose again? I’m thinking yes as it obviously hasn’t worked on her (whereas the rest seem cleared of it)?

The tapeworm where you see segments in the sheep's poo doesn't actually cause much harm in the sheep.  We discussed this when you found the segments initially, I think, and said that since you would be worming anyway then may as well get one that covers the tapeworm too.

So my concerns with this would be (a) yes, does it indicate a problem with technique or dose rate?  And/or (b) is this ewe really struggling, so is more susceptible to these worms?  So whatever you decide to do next I would think it would be worth giving her a mineral drench or jag as a general pick-u-up. 

Do they have Himalayan rock salt and / or a mineral lick available in the field?