My first advice would be not to do something concrete until you have had a year to learn what a season on your new land is like. So far this has not been a typical year, but you will get some idea. You can also learn where the warm and extra cold parts of your new veg garden are, plus just what the soil is like where.
Clearly someone else has used your smallholding before you, so you are buying into all their pests, diseases and soil problems, so don't expect that first year to be plain sailing with success all the way. You can become self sufficient in most foods eventually but give it time to develop.
Until this year I have always grown on the flat, in rows, using a Mantis to keep the weeds away between rows. But we all get older and stiffer so this year we have made six beds in our tunnel, which cover a bit less than half the floor area. We also have our greenhouse in the tunnel (it's a bit windy up here) for chillies and peppers (should have been aubergines too but they got infested so were burned. The tunnel is 7m x 14m so 21 feet by 42 feet, but tunnels are never big enough! In the beds we are growing dwarf french beans, leeks, onions, shallots, garlic, carrots, parsnips and loads of green salad stuff. We also have a mound of compost from the bin into which we plant our courgettes with excellent results. That compost will be used on the beds next year and we shall make a new mound for next year.
Outside we have two rotating beds (it used to be three but we grassed one over and planted new apple trees). We use one plot a year, leaving the other covered with a thick layer of poultry house cleanings (
and straw) and a tarp, weighted down with breeze blocks. By the time we get back to the covered bed after a year, the soil is friable and perfectly fertile, also nice and warm. Sometimes there are a few very white thistle roots to dig out, but otherwise it is ready to plant straight into. Meanwhile the other bed gets the covered and fertility treatment for the next year.
In the outdoor area we grow our potatoes, broad beans, peas, leeks and some flowers for cutting, sometimes winter brassicas too; everything else is grown in the tunnel because of the local weather and climate. We haven't had any lambing emergencies for a few years
but on occasion we would bring any ewes and lambs in need of indoor care in there in the winter. During Bird flu we had our poultry in the tunnel all winter and both those events helped the fertility no end.
But we decided to try using raised beds this year, so we could concentrate our precious compost and FYM only on the areas which needed it.
Our beds are narrow - 3 feet - as we have found that anything wider inevitably leads to standing on the soil to reach the middle. Ours are made of scaffold planks which are cheap but should last many years. We filled the beds with a mix of molehill soil (we have lovely volcanic soil), spent mushroom compost which we bought in in 2 x 1 ton sacks (fitted neatly in the sheep trailer!), FYM, compost, whatever was left of last years multipurpose, liberal seaweed meal, woodash from the logburner (our own coppice wood) and anything else we had around. We shall top them up each year.
A few years ago the soil in the tunnel seemed to get exhausted somehow in spite of annual refreshing with compost, manure, seaweed meal, ash and molehill soil. We still have a huge problem with spider mite, mice, occasionally rats, and pigeons and cabbage whites coming in the louvres.
For planting on the flat in the tunnel, we grow climbing beans, beetroot, cauliflowers (currently coming out of our ears!) and winter brassicas (some years our outdoor crop is flattened and rotted by snow lying for a long time).
Being in a rather extreme area, I don't bother with successional growing other than for salads - instead I try to have in-season veg year round, and store large quantities of summer gluts in the freezer and as preserves, plus roots and top fruit in boxes of straw.
What have we learned? Don't do everything at once - smallholding life is hard and everything always takes longer than you expect so start slowly and work up to your full self sufficiency gradually over 2 or 3 years. Give your plants greater spacing than you think they will need. Mechanise or use mulches to keep the weeds down. Experiment with plant varieties as your old favourites might not do well in the new site. For us even potatoes which had previously been failsafe failed (our land used to be a potato farm so we need blight resisant varieties of tomatoes as well as potatoes). When you up the scale of your production, also up the scale of your equipment, making it tough and sturdy - products intended for garden use simply don't stand up to large scale use.
Our growing methods are geared towards reducing the amount of work we have to do - mulches and mechanisation
We usually eat most or all home produced veg, salad and in-season fruit at 2 of our meals each day. That is our reward for all the hard work.
This is rather long but please pick out anything which might be relevant and of use to you.