The Accidental Smallholder Forum
Pets & Working Animals => Horses, ponies, donkeys & mules => Topic started by: mab on June 24, 2011, 10:05:11 pm
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Hi all,
I'm now the proud owner of a 10 yr old Shetland pony mare called Rosie! :) , but despite asking a few people how much I should allow her to eat (I've been scaring myself silly reading about Shetlands & laminitis), I'm still not clear on how I should be monitoring her weight.
The best suggestion so far is to measure her girth regularly but as she's already a bit fat I don't know what I'm aiming for except to keep it from increasing.
Also, I was thinking of walking her to keep her fit, but as she's not shod, I was wondering how much on-road walking she could do? - I suspect I might have to ask the farriers advice on that one though.
Any advice welcome.
thx
mab
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mab without knowing her history this is all a bit stab in the dark - for instance has she had lami previously? has she been a ridden pony? what about sweet itch (another common shettie problem)?
having said the above a few observations:
- generally shettie have good feet so walking her out in hand is a VERY GOOD IDEA, built your relationship and also get her used to being out and about
- she wont need anything other than grass and that should be restricted - particularly when the weather is being like it is - ie heavy rain then sun
and you want to be looking at the top of her neck - the bit where the mane joins it, if its wobbles then she is probably too fat and needs to be on a diet - not so short that she's starving though :(
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hope this starts you
also learn how to take a digital pulse (your farrier or experienced horsie person can show you) and teach her to let you ckeck it often - preferably daily
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Thanks Egglady,
According to the lady I got her off; no she's not had laminitis previously, but then she hasn't owned Rosie all that long. She didn't mention sweetitch, but I didn't think to ask about that.
The history I've got:
Rosie and a couple of other mares were owned by another bloke and the lady acquired them all pregnant. Rosie's foal was dead (still born?) so the fat she'd been allowed to build up in preparation to feed the foal is still there.
She's over the pregnancy and her udders (not sure that's the word for a horse) have gone down.
Apparently she's been broken for riding & driving my an earlier owner, but recently she's been just a broodmare - as far as I know. Apparently the previous owner wasn't particularly good in regard to building a trust relationship with his horses - he used to catch them using a lasoo - so the lady has been building her trust up since then.
She seems fairly well behaved to me - she will let me put her headcollar on without difficulty, and she'll walk to heel better than my dog. So far I've taken her for a couple of walks in the paddock (well jog's actually - at that speed she can't stop to eat the long grass ;D ). I'd like to take her up the road when I walk the dog, but wasn't sure how far she could go every day on tarmac without causing her problems.
At the moment she's in a very small paddock 24/7 with an open shelter and a tall hedge for protection from the elements, but I am not sure when to let her have more grazing.
mab
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depending on when the foal was born you might need to check for things like mastitis.
the grass is growing quickly just now so dont be fooled a small paddock for one wee shettie is ok, better too little grass and some hay than too much grass and painful lami :(
check what the hedge is made of so its not anything poisonous.
have you had horses previously?
they do like a compnaion as they are herd animals.....are there other horses or ponies nearby to keep her company?
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better too little grass and some hay than too much grass and painful lami
OK, though that begs the question how much hay do I give her?
check what the hedge is made of so its not anything poisonous.
it's mixed - hawthorn, wild rose, elder, sycamore, bramble and green Ivy to name the principal species; there's no ragwort - though I understand that's only a problem when dead & dried in hay anyway. I did ask the lady about poisonous plants and she thought that the pony would avoid them anyway.
have you had horses previously?
no.
they do like a compnaion as they are herd animals.....are there other horses or ponies nearby to keep her company?
Um, Well, I was originally told that a horse / pony would be perfectly happy with the sheep for company, and the lady I got her off thought she'd be OK with them (I did ask that question), though I have subsequently met someone who was dubious about a pony who's used to other ponies being happy with just sheep; As far as I can tell she seems happy, though of course, being new to horses I'm not sure what signs to look for.
Thanks again!
mab
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its much better to have at least two shetlands. you should not need to feed her anything at the moment. Shetlands put on a lot of podge during summer to take them through winter. if your shetland is thin at the end of the summer its not a good sign. if its fat at the end of winter thats not to good either. you don't want her on rich ground the rougher the glass the better. her feet need to be done every couple of months depending on her feet. this you can learn to do yourself. she will not need shoes if she is not being worked hard.
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I can only relate my experience with my Highland and Shetland. Both are unshod. Smokey was driven and longeined for at least an hour a day every day on tarmac and his feet were fine - they just grow faster. Start slow and increase amount every day. Get a foot trimmer and take their advice.
She'll prefer another pony for company - a sheep can't give the same social interaction such as mutual grooming.
You should be able to feel her ribs if you run the heel of your hand fairly firmly up her side. A pony needs at least 1% of its bodyweight in long fibre to maintain gut function. I'd also give her access to a salt lick and mineral lick, and water of course.
You can calculate weight by multiplying girth x girth x length in cm and dividing by 11877 to give weight in kg. Length is from chest to point of hip.
Get a hold fo Jaime Jackson's book on natural horse boarding- Paddock Paradise. It's perfect for natives.
I'd recommend doing some reading on natural horsemanship - it will help you understand her behaviour and learn how to deal with issues that will inevitably arise in a constructive way for both of you. Remember, she's a horse not a dog or a human, and her needs are quite different.
Good luck and enjoy your new pony - once she gets to know you, she'll give you great joy.
Where are you?
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was just about to ask the same question rosemary - whereabouts are you mab?
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Our rescue shetland is a porky little fella. Came to us in a horrendous state, could hardly walk with hooves so overgrown they had started pointing upwards at the toes. During the spring and summer when the grass is good he has to wear a muzzle otherwise he gets very fat and is very prone to laminitis. It's one of those things you have to watch closely.
Our lad is more than happy with sheep and Alpacas as company, we think he was kept on his own by the previous owners for most his life so I guess its what they are used to. His best friend is Gravy, our suffolk sheep, they look quite cute together as he's a big boy and they are the same size!!
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Sorry, didn't get back to the PC 'til now - what a day!
I'm in east anglia - norfolk/suffolk border.
So it sounds like walking her up the lane will be OK - that's good.
I can't feel her ribs at all.
I'm I bit concerned though that the consensus of opinion here is that she needs equine company; I don't want her to be unhappy, but am dubious as to whether my plot will support two ponies. If she won't be happy with the sheep, perhaps I shouldn't be keeping her at all? I must admit that she and the sheep are not particularly keeping close yet - I was hoping that was just while they got used to each other.
Antz - I'm glad there's someone supporting the sheep company view - I was beginning to think I'd imagined the people who said it's possible - But Rosie was with other ponies not sheep :-\ .
Thx
mab
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hiya, hope you dont mind me just pointing out that ivy in a hedge is not so good, its poisonous.
I hope you have loads of fun with her i love my shetlands, my both have a very short grass paddock its surprising just how little they can live on, i measure there girths every week, right round there tummies i just do it in inches, so i can keep an eye on any weight gains or losses,
both mine go for walks up the road, i have just bought a harness for them as i want to do driving with my filly next year and i am trying it out on her mum just at the moment to see how she likes it, she has only ever been used for riding before, but i thought it would be a good way to exercise her and me to do a bit of long reining.
All the very best with her, :wave: :hshoe:
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hope you dont mind me just pointing out that ivy in a hedge is not so good, its poisonous.
I don't mind :) but I am surprised - it's not poisonous to the sheep; they love it! That does explain why she hasn't eated the bits that are out of reach of the sheep.
M
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Re the sheep / horse comapny thing.
We have cattle and sheep together and sheep /ponies. While they graze side by side quite contentedly, there is no real interaction between the species, compared to pony with pony, where they play and groom together. I suspect sheep company for a pony is better than nothing but, in most cases, way short on equine company.
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Well, I've taken her for walks for two days now; she certainly seems to enjoy them, and she doesn't seem to be bothered by cars & tractors which is a bonus (had visions of being dragged off into the fields).
Also had the added bonus that as we walked past the gate of a 'horsey place' (stud? - forgot to ask what they do there) just up the road, the bloke poo-picking came over to the gate to say hello, and said I was welcome to come & ask for advice if I needed to :) Always handy to have someone local, even if their expertise is with larger horses.
I'll post a picture of Rosie as soon as I can extract the pics from my old camera.
Tried to measure her girth today but for some reason she doesn't like the tape measure :( - don't know why.
Mab
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i think sometimes they think it is electric tape! and if i thought you were going to electrocute ME, I'd be a bit reluctant to let you put it round my belly!!
just go easy with it and you'll get there.
find someone to help you long line her and you'll have lots of other avenues open to you :)
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Of course! You're right, it does look like the electric tape!
I never though of that! ::)
m
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Maybe try measuring her with a piece of string, then measure the string. (Or cotton, or wool, or leather - whatever she doesn't find scary.)
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Shetlands are prone to laminitis so do keep an eye on her and don't allow her too much grass. Watch the size of her tummy (and hips), you should be able to tell if she is fat (or thin!). Look to see how she stands. If you can't tell, or just need a second opinion - ask your farrier! He will be seeing your pony every 6 weeks and will be able to advise re her weight/feet. Ask him to give the field the once over too, and ask if he thinks what you are doing is right. He is paid to look after your horses feet and that is all you are asking him to do - so he should be willing to give his opinion.
Don't ever be worried about asking. You pay good money, and the wellbeing of her feet is his job.
:horse:
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Its hard to feed a Shetland too little, way more likely to feed them too much and kill them with kindness. So it's likely that two could live off even a small paddock as long as they have hay in the worst winter weather.
You could always get one on loan from World horse welfare, they have a Norfolk place; they would check out if they thought where you planned to keep it was suitable for them both, and by getting on loan it means if circumstances changed the loan one could always go back to them.
Having said that the sheep will mean the pony wont be as depressed being alone as if they had nothing, but they should really have something they can groom with and that means ideally another horse. If thats not poss then you will have to be the other horse and do lots of scratching and grooming daily for them!
The ivy with normal horse paddocks would generally not be chosen by horses; it might be more of a risk with Shetland paddocks as they are kept so sparse so the shetlands might be tempted to eat it. Sheep do love ivy, it's very good for poorly sheep who wont eat but sheep and horses are totally different.
ragwort is dangerous live too, but when live it is bitter tasting so horses tend to avoid it. However as with the ivy above, because of the deliberately bare nature of a shettie paddock they may resort to eating it so I would say it should be removed for sure in your scenario, get a Ragfork off the web, the only way to get it up with the root, and wear gloves as it is toxic to humans too!
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Hope you have fun with your shetland. We started with one but kept her in a mixed herd of horses. My present horse is on his own now. I kept a friends horse with him last year and was very worried when they moved away but he is fine. He did have a bad week last week speaking to me a lot more and needing me to be in the garden near him but then the two horses next door were away... hes back to normal now he likes people and as long as there are other horses around he doesnt seem to need to actualy be with them.
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Hi again,
Rosie seems to be settling in OK. Actually there are horses in earshot of here - I can hear one calling out - I just can't see him.
Still not got a girth measurement - I'm wondering if I'm making matters worse by being a bit hesitant about offering bits of string and seeing if she wants to avoid them. Think I need to read Monty Roberts and/or that Jamie Jackson book Rosemary recommended.
Still trying to contact a farrier - I keep getting answerphones - bah!
mab
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She is very pretty, try not to be to hesitant it does make matters worse and remember to breath while doing things infact giving out a loud sigh helps to reasure them that evrything is ok
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shes beautiful
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If stressed , sing. Keeps you breathing. Lots of people have just one horse or pony and not all are kept with any other animal. In a perfect world having another pony would help but then you have the extra cost and not everyone can afford this. The main thing is to look after your lovely pony as best as you can, giving plenty of attention and fun. Your blacksmith should be able to tell you if there has ever been laminitis in the feet. Shetlands like other ponies need a check on their weight but do not starve, if you have too much grass use electric fencing to make a small paddock and feed hay. Read up on looking after natives and what you can do with them. Most of all have fun. ;D
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If you're having no joy with a farrier, you could try an equine podiatrist. The Equine Podiatry Association is a good start. An EP cannot shoe a horse but can trim and offer advice on hoof care.
The Jaime Jackson book is about horse boarding not horse handling.
Monty Roberts is good but (and I know I'll get shot down for this by someone) maybe you should have a look at the Parelli Programme. Natural horsemanship is a way of being with your horse - it doesn't "belong" to Parelli, Roberts, Rashid or anyone else except maybe horses. The Parelli PROGRAMME is useful for folk starting with horses, because it starts with the basics for the HANDLER. It's not a horse training programme, it's a human training programme. You don't need all the equipment, although a good rope halter and a 12ft line is pretty invaluable because it allows the horse to drift and move its feet if it is anxious, without it getting away. The L1 covers fundemental concepts like pressure and release, approach and retreat, timing and feel.
If you can get hold of a Level 1 pack on ebay and watch the DVDs, you'll get a grounding in the basic skills. PP calls it the Seven Games but it's about understanding horse behaviour, building a solid relationship with your horse (on which everything else that you do with her will be based) and learning a language that your horse can understand. She already knows the language and how to play the "games" because she's a horse - it's YOU that needs training :)
Remember, EVERY encounter you have with your horse counts. From the moment you come within sight and sound of your horse, you can make it positive or negative for her, so be aware of her. She will give you constant feedback through her body language about how she is feeling - learn to accept it for what it is and acknowledge it.
Horses forgive (thank God), so if you make a well intentioned mistake, she'll forgive you, but she won't forget, so it will pay you to invest a wee bit in this. You won't regret it because horses are such wonderful creatures. Even tiny ones ;D Or maybe especially tiny ones. Just remember that, even though she's small, she's all horse. ;D
Sorry to go on - but I hope you have lots of fun with her, she looks a sweetie :)
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Rosemary - you're a positive mine of information!
That Parelli course sound like exactly what I need. Not cheap though - oh well, no one ever said that looking after a horse would be cheap ;D
Having done a search I did find this website:
http://www.iceryder.net/7games.html (http://www.iceryder.net/7games.html)
But I'm thinking it may be worth buying the DVD and do the job properly rather than trying to follow half understood utube vids.
If stressed , sing. Keeps you breathing.
You obviously haven't heard my singing! ;D
mab
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That is one very pretty pony :-)))) and looks less podgy than most Shetlands! good stuff!
I avoid Parelli like the plague as I dont like the way theyve been filmed treating horses.....
But would heartily recommend Monty Roberts UK protegee, Kelly Marks and her books/vids, she is excellent and it is more British than American as she is British. My old yard owner did a course with her and it was all genuine stuff, really impressive and kind treatment, they worked with some unbroken horses and it was amazing.
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yes your pony looks very well not over fat. you do need to remember that shetlands behave slightly diffrent to your larger horses. ie turn away dose not always work plus there is often the risk of a love bite. just be patient and spend a lot of time with her.being on her own should make it easier to bond.
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ahhh parelli!! :D :D :D
cant stand it myself...as said before the way ive seen them treating horses on film >:(..another problem is 'everyone' is suddenly an expert! the go around waving their whips..oh sorry ''carrot sticks'' ;) and thats it all your horse problems are solved!!!ha yeh right!
monty all the way for me..he's got patience and is not out to teach horse tricks to please a crowd at the N.E.C!
i use his 'join up' technique many times on rescued shetland sive had over the years and its not a miricle remedy but it really helps you connect with your pony in a simple way...... :horse: :) :hshoe:
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I'm not getting into a slagging match about Parelli.
The programme is good, IMHO, I cannot legislate for those who follow it. However, there are lots of very good exponents of natural horsemanship out there - and the principles are the same regardless. I am familiar with the Parelli programme and it's good in that it's very basis, explains the principles and gives exercises to do. However, the principles are the main thing and the Parelli Programme can make you very focussed on the exercises until you bore your pony to death ;D (I know, I did)
Re Monty Roberts and join up - fabulous. I have also seen the round pen and join-up being terribly abused by those who THINK they understand it but actually don't have the savvy to apply it. So it's not the programme - it's the person applying it.
I don't regard myself as a "know nothing" or an expert nor am I trying to impress.
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Its the Ivy berries that are poisonous
As for walking,great for the mind and body!
Try this too http://www.thehorseagilityclub.com/great-britain.html (http://www.thehorseagilityclub.com/great-britain.html) great fun! ;D
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well if i can just throw another spanner in the works here, i think monty and parelli both have things to offer/things to chuck...for me i am really really impressed with richard maxwell (max), he trained with monty and then developed his own system out of it. he worked with horses in the army and is totally fab, just says it like it is.
he came and worked with a mare of mine a few years back and was absolutely what he said he was on the tin!
lots of good books and dvd's and he is as british as the rest of us!
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then comes along a stroppy shetland looks at you and say no chance.
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I agree, Laura, all have something to offer if we keep open minds. I like Max too - saw him at Deveon Equestrian Centre a few years back and was impressed.
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Started with Monty,like Richard but didn't start progressing with Malaga till I started Parelli (And no one can say "No"better than a mule ;D)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y190/jinglejoys/Mulesbringemhere-1.jpg)
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that does look very familier.
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Well I've ordered 3 Monty books (bought one, the other two are coming through the library), and I'm still looking at the available dvd's - although I need something soon - I must've done something wrong when trying to measure her girth - she's now decided not to let me approach her with the headcollar :-[ - she turns away. She's still happy to let me groom, etc & put my arms around her girth if I leave the headcollar behind though. But I can't measure her girth with my arms - they're too short.
looks like I'll have to start with the basics. No more walks 'til I get it on again - though she still looks hopeful when I go out the gate with the dog.
One step forward... ::)
mab
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Does she actually walk away?
Horses, like humans, have a personal space - a bubble, if you like. Some are bigger than others. As you approach a horse, you will hit the edge of the "bubble". The horse, particularly one that doesn't know you well or that is a bit anxious, may either walk away to maintain distance OR may simply turn its head away. If you respect the horse's bubble, stop immediately and take a step back ie acknowledge the "bubble", the chances are that the horse will turn its head back and look at you. A horse that wants you to "come in" will look at you with both eyes and with its ears forward. Approach again - it may turn away again, in which case you have a choice depending on the circumstances - continue to approach (at least you have acknowledged the bubble) or continue to approach and retreat until the horse is comfortable.
Assuming the pony is in a fairly small area, take the headcollar - don't wave it around but don't hide it (never sneak up on your horse - that's what predators do). If she walks away, keep going towards her ie put some pressure on her. Watch her body language VERY carefully especially her eyes and ears because timing is crucial. Keep her moving- don't allow her to graze but don't yeehaa around the padock either or SNEAK, never sneak. Keep your demeanor soft. At some point, she will either stop and look at you or turn an ear towards you. At that point, stop and either take a step back or turn and walk away. She may follow you or she may allow you to approach when you try again.
If she doesn't stand, pressure and release again until she does. She will soon learn that if she does what you want ie stop, you'll release the pressure. Once you can approach her with the headcollar, you might just want to give her a rub with it, then go away. Next time, if she's comfortable, you can put it on.
Personally, I like a thin rope halter - natural horsemanship, if you like - as it doesn't encourage the pony to lean against it. The broad "normal" headcollars are too comfy if the pony leans on it. Again, if you are using a rope halter, timing is important - if you want to teach the pony to walk forward, put on a very light pressure and give her time to respond; if she doesn't, up the pressure but as soon as she gives to the pressure - even a lean forward, not a step - release the pressure - that's her reward for doing as you asked. Then ask again until she has learned the lesson.
NEVER lose your temper - if you are getting cross, stop and walk away. Remember, she's not trying to upset you or be difficult. You are a predator, she could be your dinner - so until she trusts you not to eat her, be sensitive (not soft).
Sorry to go on - you'll find the books invaluable. If you can get to a Richard Maxwell, Kelly Marks, Michael Peace clinic, you will learn loads.
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Well she did walk away.
I think I got overconfident - and was too hasty; I think made her wary with my bit of girth-measuring-string and, having given up on that, I put the string down and picked up the head collar without giving her a chance to forget about the string.
So I've left the collar & string aside and focussed on reassuring her that I'm OK. She hasn't known me for long after all.
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TYPICAL SHATLAND!! IM SURE SHE'LL COME ROUND.X.X. :D ;)
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Don't take the comments here so personally. Just my opinion based on the dreadful women I've met.
:horse:
I just get so fed up with blanket condemnation of the Parelli Programme (and its almost always Parelli), based on the actions of a few people who are not real practitioners of natural horsemanship and obviously have no understanding of the principles. :(
You're obviously not meting the right people ;D
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"You're obviously not meeting the right people"
;D ;D ;D so true!
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mab, check out the Horse and Country TV website, the section about Monty Roberts. There's a wee video about controlling the footfall / join up. It's very good.
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Thanks again folks. It's been said before but the people on this forum are always constructive & helpful.
Found those vids on horse & country. :)
I think she's getting more relaxed but I don't want to rush it with the headcollar. Also, from the reading I've done so far I think I need to be more aware of my body language - and how it looks to a horse - as someone said earlier, it's about training ME to give the right signals. ::)
Changing the subject slightly: What do you do with all the horse poo?
I'm getting a bucketful every day!
mab
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We have a wheelbarrowload! It's in a pile to go on the garden.
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And if you don't want the poo yourself, look out for someone with a really lovely garden, especially if it's got lots of roses, and / or veg, and offer it to them. They'll probably be prepared to come along and pick it up off the ground for you, if you want!
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I was thinking about this pony (mab's) today, along with the Monty video.
Mab, if she will let you groom her and put your arms round her and is genuinely happy in her body language for you to do that, I think you need to get a headcollar on her asap. Without seeing her (caveat), it doesn't sound like she's afraid of you and the headcollar - she's just knocking a rise out of you. THis is why learning to read her body language is important - if she is genuinely afraid of the headcollar, the strategy is quite different to if she's got your measure and is working you ;D This isn't a criticism, by the way, so let me explain my thinking. Let me also explain that Smokey got my measure about 2 months after I got him - and he was well in control :(
One of the things that Parelli tells you early doors is "that in horseland, whoever causes the other's feet to move is dominant". So one of the early lessons is that you don't move your feet - you cause your horse to move his. In the Monty video, he tells us that it's who CONTROLS the footfall that's important - so it's not important for you to stand still to move the horse but you have to be in control of your horse's feet. Now, some folk will be reading this and thinking "has she just got this?" and will see it as self-evident.
Your pony will allow you to groom her and pet her ON HER TERMS. When she gets fed up, she can walk away. You can walk after her but who's controlling whose footfall? She is controlling yours. That's why I think you need to get a headcollar on her so that YOU can control the footfall. I'd recommend a rope horseman's halter - don't buy a Parelli one, they are hugely expensive - you can get the same thing much cheaper, but do invest in a 12ft rope line. It's a wonderful tool.
Once you have her in the halter and line, you can start to move her around. I like to play a game with Smokey and Bugsy called "I'll groom you without moving my feet" which is just what it says. I stand in one place and move them around to groom them, pick out their feet and so on. It give a purpose to the movement and the ponies understand purpose. We haven't quite sussed it all yet but it's fun working it out together - since you have to do the job, you might as well make it a constructive learning experience for both of you.
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aye, i agree with all of that Rosemary....and it most definately makes a difference to the 'who's in charge' game!
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Rosemary, you may well be right; I'm not certain if she's afraid of the headcollar, or just giving me the runaround because she's learned that she can - I may have been too diffident in my handling of her.
I'm not so confident of my horse reading ability as I am with dogs; i.e. if I'm stood beside her shoulder and her ears go back, is that 'cos she's just listening to me of is she expressing doubt about what I'm doing?
I was experimenting with gently pushing against her whilst grooming to maker her move in an attempt to establish myself as the one who gives instructions. Also I have persuaded her to let me touch the headcollar to her nose without her turning away (though one or both ears go back in a 'doubtful' expression).
I was thinking about using some chopped carrots/apples for treats so I could reward her for cooperating, but am not certain how much she could have as treats without it becoming a health issue.
The headcollar I've got is a blue synthetic strapping type; I've see rope ones online but I wasn't sure what size to get (does 'pony' fit all ponies?).
Of course, in accordance with the laws of Sod whilst trying to find the time to work with her, I've had a customer run off to france owing me £600 (and other people a lot more), the dog's been ill and one of the ex-bats had to be PTS (tumor) ::) why does it all happen at once.
Still I should count my blessings - the sheep have (so far) been fine :)
mab
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mab, i wouldnt give a shetland treats as it can really encourage them to nip
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oh but the love there carrot. you will get the odd love bite anyway well the daughter does she must taste nicer than me. the wife got a real nice nip on her cheek (face) that will teach her to sit down amoungst a herd of shetland fillies.
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mine get the odd treat but it is put on there food bucket, its never given out of my hand, once they start nipping its a hard habit to break :wave:
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true. but your pockets get a good snuffle and a very sad look if you have nowt.
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I got a rope halter from these people http://www.natural-knots.com/Rope_Halter/p214110_408472.aspx, (http://www.natural-knots.com/Rope_Halter/p214110_408472.aspx,) it's very nice quality and they will custom make for you instructions for taking the measurments are further down that page.
They were very quick, I got an email within a couple of hours saying the clour I had chosen wasn't in stock and listing the ones that were, delivery was really quick
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Thanks for that link! though I'm not sure she'll let me measure her nose yet ;D
Well I've got two books to read so-far, and if I don't make headway with them I was thinking of asking a local school/stable if they might give instruction in basic horse handling. Reading books is all well and good, but sometimes it helps to have someone watch and tell you if you're giving the signals you think you are.
cheers
mab
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Well I've got two books to read so-far, and if I don't make headway with them I was thinking of asking a local school/stable if they might give instruction in basic horse handling. Reading books is all well and good, but sometimes it helps to have someone watch and tell you if you're giving the signals you think you are.
I'm be careful who you ask. There are some pretty rough folk out there who have years of experience with horses and know nothing about horse behaviour. Where are you?
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Fair point, I'll have to ask around a bit. I was going to try the DIY route first though.
I'm in Bungay, Suffolk.
mab
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Thanks for that link! though I'm not sure she'll let me measure her nose yet ;D
Well I've got two books to read so-far, and if I don't make headway with them I was thinking of asking a local school/stable if they might give instruction in basic horse handling. Reading books is all well and good, but sometimes it helps to have someone watch and tell you if you're giving the signals you think you are.
cheers
mab
Wish I could find somebody good to do that with my dogs. They don't seem to know the same body language as me sometimes! I think you're doing great, wish I could have a pony, just not safe here so close to the village.
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Victory! 8)
I can now put Rosie's headcollar on again, at least today (twice); and if I'm patient I should manage tomorrow. I didn't need treats either.
;D Suddenly I'm feeling massively optimistic. ;D
Might try the measuring rope tomorrow too if the headcollar goes well - then I can measure her up for that rope halter :)
Thanks everyone!
mab
PS. at the risk of asking a silly question; What's the 12ft rope line for?
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Not an expert, but is that not a lungeing line - to exercise and school the horse/pony in a circle round the handler?
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Not an expert, but is that not a lungeing line - to exercise and school the horse/pony in a circle round the handler?
No, it's not a lunge line, although you could use it as one if you wanted to. It's just a way of connecting you to your pony but is longer than a "normal" lead rope. It is also heavier than a cotton lead rope so gives a firmer connection. The length and weight allow you to communicate better with your pony to move it around. It also means that you cen get it further out of your space if safety demands that.
Lungeing is useful but often overused IMHO, so it simply becomes making your horse run in circles. You can end up with a mentally bored but physically very fit horse - not always a good combination!!
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agree with rosemary - much prefer using long lines, better for pony as much more variety.....and less boring for the user too!
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im a long reining fan, horse are not designed to go round and round in circles, it doesnt do there joints any good, for an over all fitness longreining is alot better for them :wave:
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I agree totally - but LR is much more work for the handler. You can text while you're lunging, and have a fag ;D
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OK, I see that I need to research training / working methods - at the moment I'm just walking her when I walk the dog, and now trying to move her around whilst grooming. ;D
Thx
M
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When you are trying to move her, be VERY focussed on the part of her body you want her to move. If you want her to move her hindquarters away from you (always a good one to start with as ponies are usually better at moving the hindquarters than their forehand), look at the back leg nearest you, focus on it and kind of project your energy at it. Horses pick up on where you are focussed - so if you are, say, pushing her shoulder and looking at her ears, she probably won't be clear about what you are asking her to do.
You can lightly tap her leg or her hindquarters to reinforce - as soon as she tries to do the right thing, even if she only shifts her weight in preparation to lift the leg you want to move, immediately stop and look away - taking the pressure off is her reward. Then try again - try for one step, then quit to reward her. If she doesn't try, incrase the frequency of the tapping - NOT the force. But quit as soon as she tries. She'll soon get the hang of it.
But be clear what you want her to do - if you aren't, she can't be.
Nothing wrong with walking her with the dogs - you can build lots of learning into that. Just don't let her decide when she's going to graze. If you want to let her graze, give her a cue to say it's OK. I use "Easy" for my two, then relax my body, then when I want to go, I raise my body, focus on where I want to go and ask them to "walk on" - if they don't, the 12 ft rope is long enough to swing behind me and give them a tap on the bum, without me having to change my focus. It works much better that battling about grass.
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I tether my Shetland on short grass 8-9 hours a day, drive him barefoot on gravel and Tarmac about 1-2 miles 2 or 3 times a week. He has two gorgeous goats as company and certainly doesn't need another pony. He has a bare paddock at night but ryegrass and cocksfoot hay in a small haynet for comfort and peristalsis. His hooves are professionally trimmed and he wears boots when out driving for a week after. He lives on a lush dairy farm! But he is now 12 and I've had him all his life and he is fit, happy and stays constantly at 140kg on this regime.
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Hello I have just joined & am looking for some advice, I have a mini Shetland he is 5 years old & for the last 10 weeks he has had strangles we don't know where he got it from because he goes in a paddock on his own, the bigger ponies won't take to him, He was really poorly at first but has picked up &:HD seems to be coming to the end of the illness, The ptoblem I have is he is in a barn on his own away from the other ponies n his normal stable, he is bring very fussy with his feed he will eat it for a few days them leaves it, he is eating small amounts of nuts n having carrots n hay, I have been feeding him 3 meals a day to build him back but recently he won't eat his breakfast, bug when I give him fresh nuts HD munchies on them, A girl on the yard has told me I'm not looking after him properly because he isn't eating, he seems fine in himself now apart from the strangles , Does anyone have any ideas I've given him a bottle with treats in to play with ,
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Hi, I think you need vet advice and even if he is over the worst, he may still be a carrier. You need to buy a weigh tape and condition score him because under the fur he could be getting thinner.
I have never seen a small pony be anything but a food hoover so if he is not eating there could be another cause, teeth and or an abscess.
https://www.aht.org.uk/skins/Default/pdfs/steps.pdf (https://www.aht.org.uk/skins/Default/pdfs/steps.pdf)
I can remember when strangles was not worried about too much, its a virus in the environment like a cold and the best prevention is not letting you horse touch another and people washing their hands, We had one on a yard many years ago that apart from not being touched, the box he was in was enclosed,there were no special precautions and no other animals caught it.
Good luck.
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Thank you I am in touch with vet on a regular basis & he has said if he is eating he will be fine, he is having 3 meals a day & hay, he is & has always been very fussy with his food, I will check him tomorrow & ring the vet, he has been isolated from the other ponies for 10 weeks but two younger ones have caught it but how no one knows because I haven't been out of his barn near them,;Thank you for your advice
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Thank you I am in touch with vet on a regular basis & he has said if he is eating he will be fine, he is having 3 meals a day & hay, he is & has always been very fussy with his food, I will check him tomorrow & ring the vet, he has been isolated from the other ponies for 10 weeks but two younger ones have caught it but how no one knows because I haven't been out of his barn near them,;Thank you for your advice
Is there any sharing of yard equipment, e.g. mucking out forks and barrows or something like that? Strangles bacteria can be transferred between horses on people's clothes, equipment and tack. I'm surprised the whole yard hasn't been put on lockdown with no horses allowed in or out.
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He may also be suffering mentally due to lack of contact with other equines. While he was feeling really poorly this would not have as much impact on him.