The Accidental Smallholder Forum
Livestock => Poultry & Waterfowl => Topic started by: congo181 on February 17, 2015, 10:29:14 pm
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So I've almost finished my home-made coop ad its coming along nicely.
My construction currently has a load of areas around the roof area, both under the eaves and at the apex of the roof where I know small animals could enter the coop.
Do I need to close these areas to critters (I'm thinking mainly rats)? I want to keep the ventilation, so would I need chicken wire or similar over these areas?
Thanks all,
Jim
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Hi Jim,
Chicken wire won't keep rats, weasels, squirrels or other predators or vermin out, you need something much stronger and with 1/2" or 1" gaps. The good thing is you won't need a big expensive roll of it. The only thing chicken wire does is prevent chickens escaping inc escaping from predators, it doesn't keep much out other than magpies and pigeons.
Depending on where these gaps are located you might need something to stop the rain coming in, with our first coop the angle at which rain can fall surprised us...
Post a picture? :)
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All the ventilation points should be covered with weld mesh Congo. We use 12mm square with 1mm wire for ours. Even mice will get in and eat chicken feathers off the birds to get the blood out of the quills -a big problem here. Rats will eat their feet I've heard, taking toes or even the whole foot off during the night.
As Eve says, the angle of driving rain will get through ventilation areas so it is best if the apertures have sliding covers so one or the other side can be closed off, fully or partially, in bad weather.
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Thanks for all the replies.
Attached is a picture of the (almost) finished coop. All in all, pretty free from driven wind and rain, except you can see that there is a gap at the front of the gable end which I will fill in with timber.
There is also a gap under the ridge cap, along the roof line which is my primary ventilation. I want to keep the holes, so I will mesh underneath as suggested.
Under the eaves is a similar problem, and I think it will be more difficult to mesh it. If I simply fill it all in with timber than I don't think I will get much through ventilation. What dya think? Should I simply fill in under the eaves, or mesh?
Thanks,
Jim
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wire wool? rodents hate it.
it looks very good :thumbsup:
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Cool coop Jim. Cant you just put wooden battens with spacers (A few washers) so you will keep a small gap to let air in but nothing else in.
Good luck
David
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I have today bought some 13mm x 1mm welded wire mesh as suggested.
Unfortunately I think I will have to remove the roofing to fit it properly.
Ah well, the best laid plans of mice, rats and men :-)
Attached is a pic showing the gaps in the eaves. Re ventilation, I suspect that these will be too much overall. Shall I block some of them in? The pic shows 1 side, and the opposite is the same.
Cheers for your helpful replies thus far,
im
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No such thing as too much ventilation. It won't be drafts coming in from there so keep it as it is :thumbsup:
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Great - thanks Clydesdale.
I'm going to fit the mesh today, and may add some closing louvres the the eaves if I can find something that is easy.
Cheers,
Jim
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Looks good - realised my duck house (from Jim Vyse) has space under the eaves which is not covered in weld mesh but ducks are probably less under threat from rats because they're still active at night. The rest of the houses all have some sort of heavy mesh over all the openings.
Where are you? I think you're not far from me at all.
H
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Hi Hester.
I am between Tovil and Loose, out in the orchards. You?
Got the mesh on, but had to take the roofing apart to do it. Should be finished with this bit by end of play today.
I need to start thinking about getting some chickens I suppose :-)
I'm going to leave the eaves open but meshed and see if there's a draught, but I doubt it. If there is the I will just close them in, I also bought some sliding vents for the gable end panels too.
More pictures later I hope.
Jim
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They should be fine if all your openings are at eaves level, the draught will be above them and most chickens are pretty well able to cope with cold temps anyway (well as cold as we get here). I'm just off junction 10 of the M20 so a few miles below you!
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Finished the (hopefully) rodent proof mesh. Does it look OK?
Can someone look at the pics of my roost poles/trays and comment on their height and head space?
The are 800mm (2'8") from the floor, and the head height is about about 360mm (14").
I am also a little concerned that the open (meshed) eaves are only 10" above the roost poles.
What dya think? Should I drop the trays a little?
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Most of my chickens wouldn't roost that high but it depends what breed you're getting. If they're a lighter breed, they'll be able to get up there more easily and the lack of head room will be less of a problem. What are your plans?
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My plans are simple: chickens :-) The breed choice is going to be the subject of much searching and quizzing soon I expect.
Its our first foray into poultry, so really we have NO idea :excited:
Whats a more normal roost height then? I want to keep them above the nest boxes, but could easily drop them all down (6 screws).
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I'll measure the only perch routinely used by my chickens tomorrow but I'd guess it would sit just above the top of your nest box level (18 inches?). But as I say, it really depends which breeds you will have. I have Orpingtons which are big, heavy birds so they don't like to go up and are likely to get injured coming down again if the perch is too high.
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We have seen this website which isn't too far for us to go, and to be honest they all look nice to us :-)
http://www.chickensforsaleinkent.com/ (http://www.chickensforsaleinkent.com/)
I like ll of them really apart from the BBF, but thats purely down to aesthetics.
We are a family of 3, but we are thinking of starting out with 3 or 4 hens, predominantly for eggs only.
We want to free range them if we can.
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Yep, they're all hybrids so they will probably be fine with the higher perch (none of them are meat birds - all bred for laying). I think they're a bit confused because they've said Light Sussex (a pure breed) is the same as Sussex Star (which is actually a Light Sussex/Rhode Island Red hybrid) and they say Cream Legbar (a pure breed) is the same as Skyline (which has Cream Legbar in it but is a hybrid). But the pictures look pretty - I would go and visit to be absolutely sure. They don't mention whether they actually breed them there (that I could see) so ask to see the parent stock and go with your gut instinct. I know there are some hybrid breeders in Kent that have a bad reputation but I don't know who they are, I'm afraid. Just be sure that you're comfortable with how they look after their birds - you want to be sure you have healthy birds from the start.
The only real difference, as I understand it, between hybrids and pure breeds is that pure breeds breed true i.e. the offspring will have the same appearance and characteristics as the parents. But hybrids have been developed to be particularly good in something specific - whether it be egg laying or meat (or fighting but that's a different discussion!). The egg layers tend to be fab for two or three years and then tail off quite fast. Commercial egg producers keep their birds for 18 months and then cull or sell on. So just be prepared that in a couple of years, you need to get more birds in and consider what you'll do with the older birds. I believe hybrids have a lower life expectancy so that, in a way, helps - but they can have more health problems too.
Three or four will certainly produce enough eggs for your family and I'm sure they'll be more than happy free ranging if you can keep predators at bay!
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Oh, only other thing is they're vaccinated against everything and anything. Good for them but might be hard to mix with unvaccinated birds later - it means they can carry diseases that they won't die from but mightl kill other birds that are introduced to the flock.