The Accidental Smallholder Forum
Smallholding => Equipment => Topic started by: WhiteHorses on November 29, 2013, 09:43:32 am
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My OH wants a (petrol) chainsaw and it is something we need, so I'm thinking I'll get one for Christmas. It would be for chopping up a couple of fallen trees and occasional use trimming branches etc. I'm thinking a new one that's easy to start and use, reliable, needs only simple routine maintenance - it can get serviced by someone else and is generally as idiot proof as a chainsaw can be.
Any suggestions please?
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Personally I'd only look at Sthil or Husqvarana
I have a Sthil MS180 which has been very good
Don't forget Chainsaw trouser, gloves, helmet, visor and ear defenders and preferably some training as well.
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chainsaws by default are not idiot proof
bare minimum is get a good demonstration from someone with experience, better yet is some proper training.
just learning to keep it properly sharp is so important.
chainsaws are definitely a case of you get what you pay for, when i started doing garden maintenance 6 years ago i purchased a 99 quid super cheapy and although it was ok for trimming off small side branches it really couldn't cope with anything much over 4 inches diameter.
Have since used both husqvana and stihl tools and they are much better... but even then within the range is a huge amount of choice and it requires some experience of using them to decide what you actually need for your property...
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2nd henchard on the Sthil, not worth trying to get a bargain with chainsaw's. Get bigger than you think you need otherwise you will only strain what you have which will lead to trouble.
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Also budget in for the PPE Safety equipment to go with..
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We bought a chainsaw from B&Q I think :thinking: , but it was just over £100 and did not last long at all, they are dangerous e beasts and although we could do with another I think now we would hire one or buy a more industrial one, good to look at what the professionals or hire companies use....... :thumbsup:
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Ditto Sthil or Husqvarna and the safety equipment / training. I think Oatridge does chainsaw training and it's local to you.
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I bought the smallest stihll, the MS 180 about 8 years ago, it has been super reliable, is light and easy to use, in my opinion all a smallholder needs.
I second the comments on PPE, I have helmet with ear defenders and face shield, gloves, and trousers.
Training would be a good idea too.
I also have one of these, which makes logging a much much safer operation, looks flimsy, but has stood up to all my abuse so far and have cut over 10 tons of logs with it.
http://www.mowdirect.co.uk/md-saw-horse-with-chainsaw-attachment.html (http://www.mowdirect.co.uk/md-saw-horse-with-chainsaw-attachment.html)
A number of firms do them.
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Thanks. Completely agree re clothing and training too.
Being a fairly practical girl I have used a Kubota chainsaw years ago. Was shown how to and to be honest I was pretty scared of it and treated it ultra carefully and gratefully handed it to experienced men whenever they were available.
OH doesn't like anyone to suggest he isn't far more competent than I could possibly be, or sufficiently knowledgable, which is why getting all these things as presents is a good plan :)
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Husky do a "landowner range" of tools which are superb quality but not their top of the range (i.e. no heated handles etc!).
I disagree with "get bigger than you need" though. These new saws don't do raw power - they do high RPMs instead, which means that even a small light saw will do the job. I have a Husky 346XP, which is absolutely superb.It all depends to a degree on personal strength, but I find my wee saw far easier to use than my friend's big beast. The light weight just makes it so much easier to work with without getting tired arms.
HTH!
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I have a Stihl and was told by the salesman to get the smallest I could get away with to do the job. They can be too heavy to use easily and if you are struggling you are not safe. The smaller ones are cheaper, lighter and use less fuel. And if you are up a ladder!!
In my case I needed a bigger one as some of the trees were over 2' diameter. So I got one with an 18" bar, which did the job fine but is far too big for general lopping. I also have a 10" Black and Decker electric chainsaw. Very light, extremely cheap and economical to run so almost effortless to use and is now coming up to 35 years old. I could do with something in-between, but an electrical one for cutting near the house for burning lengths is ideal.
So what I am saying I suppose WhiteHorses, is that you may need two three to cover all the jobs.
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I'll just add don't overlook the McCulloch range - they're manufactured by Husqvarna and they're reasonably priced I bought the 14 inch CS340 a few months ago (Amazon), am very pleased with it as it's not too heavy, and has done everything I've needed so far.
I'll also second the views regarding PPE - absolutely vital - you don't get second chances with a chainsaw .
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I too would go for stihl /husky.
I would go for the smallest one unless you know you need a big one - that way you're controlling the chainsaw and not the other way round.
I got the smallest Stihl MS170 with a 12" bar and I can still chop up 2' logs (though a good sharp chain and un-worn bar are required for that size of log).
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sorry to be boring but i love my husky too ( I know stihl are certainly just as good)- previously tried to get away with a cheaper one- after about 3 stints the blessed thing never started. I usually ended up cussing and using a bow saw. would also second all previous comments re safety- chainsaws are not to be taken complacently-
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Hi Whitehorses, I recently bought a Husqvarna 435 from Livingston Garden Machinery & find it the perfect all round saw for my smallholding needs including cutting up all the firewood ....... you're more than welcome to come over & try it out if it would help, I think the firm also give instruction as well.
Dave
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I'll just add don't overlook the McCulloch range - they're manufactured by Husqvarna and they're reasonably priced I bought the 14 inch CS340 a few months ago (Amazon), am very pleased with it as it's not too heavy, and has done everything I've needed so far.
I'll also second the views regarding PPE - absolutely vital - you don't get second chances with a chainsaw .
I would disagree with the McCulloch recommendation, my father in law asked me to have a look at his 2 year old McMulloch chainsaw as the chain brake would not latch off, he was using it with one hand holding the lever in! I found the plastic moulding had distorted beyond repair and I spent a fruitless 2 weeks trying to find someone who stocks spares. I have told my FIL to bin it but he refuses!
Conversely the choke lever snapped on my 20 year old Husky and within 48hrs I had a replacement for £18 including postage. The first time anything had failed (apart from pullcords) on either of my 2 Husky's.
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I've got a Stihl MS181 and apart from the top cover coming loose, it's a fine machine. With a 14" bar you can technically cross cut 28" but felling anything large is a job for the professionals. Try lifting a 6" log that's 10' long - they're heavy and not to be taken lightly, pardon the pun.
As mentioned, get some PPE, at a minimum chainsaw trousers and a visor (with hearing protection). I wear gloves but they're more to protect my hands from handling the logs (they're sturdy leather ones, not chainsaw ones - if you are using a saw properly your hands should not be in danger). There are some excellent instruction videos on YouTube if you can't or won't get any formal tuition
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It's nearly 40 years since I started using saws (anyone else remember the Danarm with coil spring mounts?) and my respect for their hazards remains undiminished.
It's a cracked record but I've only ever used husqvarna and stihl saws and Oregon chain. There's too much nasty that can happen when something breaks to take any risks. Saw chain runs at around 20m/s from memory and makes a very messy injury as it cuts a groove rather than a slice.
Safety has improved dramatically with chain brakes and low-kick chains alongside far better PPE. Professional saws with more power can drive a beefier chain (0.063" against 0.058" or 0.050") and with different links that accommodate the power but at the expense of kick-back. So I'd fell with a heavier saw than I'd use for snedding.
I've never used a saw up a tree. Plain bloody dangerous. There are single handed ones made for light work, others need roping and a load of technical safety kit that I've never wanted to learn how to use.
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You can't buy a single handed chainsaw without a ticket, for good reason
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i recently replaced my old machita chainsaw with an electric one. i only use it within extension cord distance of the yard, the new machine was less than half the cost to buy, runing costs are drasticly less, it is lighter has less vibration and is easier to use. in my opinion its very nearly as powerfull. just a thought
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when I was in forestry we used husky's and stihls. Mostly husky's cos they had more up to date H&S information (things like vibration allowances and all that), we all preferred the stihls though as they seemed more reliable and easier to service.
My personal chainsaw is a mculloch, and based on using it for 3 years now I totally recommend stihl. The mculloch is OK, but it's a bit of a pain to use, has a weird starting procedure and some of the parts are a bit fragile (already had to replace the chain brake, several lengths of fuel pipe etc).
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For my small place I bought a stihl ms181. It's a cracking saw, easy to use and easy to maintain / sharpen. Trousers, helmet with eye and ear protection, boots and gloves are essential. Don't even think about using the saw without them on. I own both shotguns / firearms and still consider the chainsaw by far the most dangerous thing I use. As the precious poster mentions, my respect for the risk they pose remain undiminished too but with confidence and experience it's a very capable tool to have at your disposal.
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An electric Stihl in the local shop was €250. 1800 Watts with a 35cm bar. Picked it up and it weighs very little, perhaps 3Kg. So when my Black and Decker fails (won't be long now) that will replace it.
I've always thought shotguns very safe tools to use. The most dangerous tools I have are a chainsaw and a double edged bill hook in my opinion. Operating any tool when it has been poorly maintained or you are tired or wet and without PPE is a recipe for disaster.