The Accidental Smallholder Forum
Livestock => Sheep => Topic started by: Stanlamb on February 25, 2013, 09:26:42 pm
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Hi
Just wondering how effective electric fencing is for ewes and lambs? Which system is best - netting or 3 strands of tape on a reel? I can imagine lambs getting stuck in netting or going under the tape.
I do have poultry netting but suspect that won't be suitable? Advice much appreciated.
Thanks.
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Ive tried netting but have abandoned using it as I got very fed up of sheep getting stuck in it, not just lambs but sheep too. And its not allowed under the welfare code for any horned sheep anyway. Drove me mad. Its a pain as it means fewer fields are usable as when we moved here there was no usable fencing so we are having to fence bit by bit, but the peace of mind of a stock fenced field is sooooo worth it.
It might be better with more stoical heavier breeds tho - mine are shetlands. Didnt even try the wires for that reason....:-))
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Best method is strained steel electric wire - or of course stock fence
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Thanks both. It's a 3 acre field which I don't wish to split permanently hence my interest in e electric option. SMS - how does that work? Is it several strands which I would need?
Thanks
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Take a look at this guide: http://www.rappa.co.uk/advice-centre/23-wire-heights-post-spacings-for-electric-fencing (http://www.rappa.co.uk/advice-centre/23-wire-heights-post-spacings-for-electric-fencing)
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Stanlamb,
We have 3 strands of a sort of nylon material on a reel which obviously has steel running through it. It works well for our ewes. They aren't even keen on crossing the line when its been taken down. A bucket of feed overcomes that though ;D
I don't have lambs yet but I certainly wouldn't trust them with the electric fence on its own although we use it to divide up fields that have stock proof fencing around the perimiter anyway.
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I've tried 3 strands (and 4 strands) of polywire. It works well for the ewes (mostly), and for the lambs initially, but as the lambs grow they get wise to the fact that they can run at it at speed and get through it without being zapped. And once one starts doing it they all start, and then the ewes will follow too.
I'm thinking of trying tape this year (or tape and poly wire combo), as I have tape around my pigs and the sheep never go near that. Whether that's because of the pigs presence I don't know, we shall see :).
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I use 6 strand polywire or electronets.
I have Shetlands and shetland crosses. They respect it as long as it is kept tight enough to play a tune on :thumbsup:
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Thanks everyone. Ignoring the fact that the lambs might hop through it ::), I'm going to price up a four strand poly wire system. It sounds like it will meet our needs nicely!
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I use 3 strand and find it works well but I prefer polyrope to either polywire or tape, both of which can snap and become a hazard.
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Me again with one further question. Is there much difference in quality between the various electric fencing brands - Rappa vs Hotline vs whatever our local farmshop has. I need to gt something bought quick smart before these ladies lamb!
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Rappa is very good and used by a lot of proper big farmers. They also deliver properly nationwide free, even to us. And the speedrite energisers are very good (we have 4!), we get the dual power ones with the charge meter on them so you can see without haviong to manually test how much charge is left so no getting caught out!
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Generally you get what you pay for - I would advise going with a known name rather than an ebay special.
I personally like hotline - as all their energisers are repairable and spare circuit boards are available should they be needed - and most hotline stockists (like us) have a pre season sale on all energisers.
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We use Rappa, but mainly because we have their automatic fencing systems for laying out and collecting the fences (Best money i have ever spent)
For land that will be fenced more permanently of for boundary fences use strained 2mm galvanised wire http://www.accidentalsmallholder.net/forum/index.php?topic=31739.0 (http://www.accidentalsmallholder.net/forum/index.php?topic=31739.0) (3 lines gereally fine for most things) and then use poly wire for temporary fencing/strip grazing. The poly posts are cheap but don't like being moved in the frost (can become very brittle) the metal posts Rappa do are WELL worth the extra cost.
C B
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Thanks, that's really useful. Am pricing up Rappa and Hotline but stuck just now - trying to find out which battery energiser meets our needs. Have to ring Hotline in the morning. Am a bit concerned that if we run a straight line from fence to hedge that there will either be a gap at the ends or it will be shorted by the fence or hedge. And this was supposed to be a quick and simple exercise .... ::)
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Yoyu need some of these at the ends:
http://www.rappa.co.uk/products/112-slotted-anchor-insulator-10-pack (http://www.rappa.co.uk/products/112-slotted-anchor-insulator-10-pack)
Simply tie them to your existing fence posts with enough room to prevent the hedge or fence earthing the live wires.
How long a fence are you running?
http://www.rappa.co.uk/advice-centre/22-energiser-guide (http://www.rappa.co.uk/advice-centre/22-energiser-guide)
We run SPE2000's but run fences around 1.5-2kms
C B
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We've used electric fencing in the past but had one ewe who persistantly pushed through it to get to the better grass! I think her fleece insulated her from the shocks. The others never tried to get through it.
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We've got electric netting, as long as you don't forget to change the fencer battery when it's going flat it does a good job of keeping our orphan bunch in ;) they haven't got stuck in it but it does deliver a good zap when they touch it... the poor dog didn't know what had hit her when she touched it for the first time!
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Thanks Crazy Bull! I wasn't aware of the existence of insulators - perfect! Our fence is only going to be a max of 200m. The guide you linked to recommends the SPE1000 for 3 strands of wire. I wonder will it be sufficient for four strands? I'm thinking it ought to be. Can you tell me whether you can use rechargeable batteries with those units? Mains power not an option!
Thanks again.
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Thanks Crazy Bull! I wasn't aware of the existence of insulators - perfect! Our fence is only going to be a max of 200m. The guide you linked to recommends the SPE1000 for 3 strands of wire. I wonder will it be sufficient for four strands? I'm thinking it ought to be. Can you tell me whether you can use rechargeable batteries with those units? Mains power not an option!
Thanks again.
I use standard 12v car batteries for most of my fences, however I only use them as I can get them for £10 from the local car breakers, they test them to check they will still hold a charge. If you have to buy new, buy a 'leisure' battery, these are designed unlike a car battery to be drained and recharged constantly, where as a car battery is designed for quick heavy use then instant re-charge, you will find car batteries die after a year or sooner and won't hold a charge. Best option if you can afford it is a leisure battery linked to a solar trickle charger, this will keep the battery topped up and may not need charging for a long time.
The SPE range that RAppa do have some nifty functions, like 2 different night modes, one that goes to half power at night and full power in the day, for daylight loving animals, and the other night time setting is half power in the day and full at night to stop the nocturnal animals. These are power saving options, it also has a function that tells you how much juice is left in your battery.
Any other questions just ask.
C B
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We've used electric fencing in the past but had one ewe who persistantly pushed through it to get to the better grass! I think her fleece insulated her from the shocks. The others never tried to get through it.
I would suggest lowering the bottom wires and even considering trimming the back of her neck a little bit when it warms up, if you have 2 strands at 10cm and 20cm she will get a shock on her head as she tries to get her neck under, when they have a full fleece on they only need to get their neck under and they are out, especially if using poly or stranded wire, (it stretches) it rarely happens with strained wire as it pushes through the wool to give them a shock.
Training on sheep is often best done against an existing fence line ( say a foot from the existing fence) that way they don't tend to push through and learn that the wire means ouch!
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Thanks Crazy Bull! I wasn't aware of the existence of insulators - perfect! Our fence is only going to be a max of 200m. The guide you linked to recommends the SPE1000 for 3 strands of wire. I wonder will it be sufficient for four strands? I'm thinking it ought to be. Can you tell me whether you can use rechargeable batteries with those units? Mains power not an option!
Thanks again.
I use standard 12v car batteries for most of my fences, however I only use them as I can get them for £10 from the local car breakers, they test them to check they will still hold a charge. If you have to buy new, buy a 'leisure' battery, these are designed unlike a car battery to be drained and recharged constantly, where as a car battery is designed for quick heavy use then instant re-charge, you will find car batteries die after a year or sooner and won't hold a charge. Best option if you can afford it is a leisure battery linked to a solar trickle charger, this will keep the battery topped up and may not need charging for a long time.
The SPE range that RAppa do have some nifty functions, like 2 different night modes, one that goes to half power at night and full power in the day, for daylight loving animals, and the other night time setting is half power in the day and full at night to stop the nocturnal animals. These are power saving options, it also has a function that tells you how much juice is left in your battery.
The SPE 1000 will certainly be enough for 4 strands at 200mtrs, probably even out to 500mtrs
Any other questions just ask.
C B