The Accidental Smallholder Forum
Livestock => Poultry & Waterfowl => Topic started by: Dicky on November 25, 2012, 02:54:53 pm
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So we tried for the first time today to slaughter one of our cockerels, but unfortunately it wasn't very succesful. I had done plenty of reading on the neck break method and watched videos of it being done, but in practice we just couldn't break the neck. After 3 attempts, 2 with a broom stick and one with the hands, I had to finish it off as quickly as possible with a very sharp knife that i had to hand. I do not think we can try this method again as the last thing I want is to cause unnecessary suffering. So what is the best alternative?
We do have an air rifle, and could get a pistol if it would be easier. I have heard about using it to stun the bird before cutting the neck, but where exactly do you shoot?
I could cut the head clean off with a hatchet or machete, but I understand this isn't considered a particularly instant death, though I find it hard to see how.
If we ever had a larger operation I may get an electric stunner, but at £300 - £400 we just can't afford it at the moment.
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i prefer to use an air gun myself, partially as i do not have enough strength in my arms to snap the neck.
i take the bird(s) out of the hut just after dark, when they are more co-operative, place them on the ground - they are sleepy(ish) so tend to just sit.
put the barrel of the gun at the base of the neck/top of spine and fire at point blanc. failing that another straight into the top of the head works.
then simply cut the throat.
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So you are firing from the back of the head, not side on? Does it ever fail and the bird stays concious?
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To practice the technique for breaking the neck, use a bird which is already dead. It's more technique than brute strength :chook:
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How exactly did you use the broomstick? I only ask because I have successfully killed a bird that, when dead, had its head dragging on the floor as I held the ankles (i.e. I am small and it was big!)
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I'm afraid I've had limited success with the air rifle, but I think perhaps mine needs a new spring.
The broomstick method for a chicken is to hold the bird's feet, place its head on the floor, then put the broomstick on the base of the spine. Then you thank the bird (an inuit tradition which we now keep to!) apply downward pressure with both of your feet on the broomstick (one either side of the bird's neck), and pull upwards with your hands.
It's more than just pulling though. I've found that the round shape of the broomstick is important, since that seems to settle in between the bones, and allow for quick dislocation. It's not pleasant, but it's about the least unpleasant way I've yet found.
I can also do it this way for turkeys, but find geese much much harder. I believe the recommended method for them is to hold them round the body, put the neck under the stick, stand on it, and then stand up. It's easier said than done though, and I'll be honest, I've been putting off killing our remaining geese because I'm not yet 100% sure of the best way to do it. Any better ideas folks?
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We used a proper rounded broomstick, under both feet and pulled up with the feet of the bird. My wife did this bit, and she is very strong for a woman, and I tried the manual method and I still couldn't break the neck (I am 6'3 and 14st, and wouldn't consider myslef a weakling at all). We were pretty gutted that it didn't work and can't really contemplate this method again, but still have another 8 to do.
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Ascott do a Humane Wall Mounted Dispatcher (http://ascott-dairy.co.uk/acatalog/Poultry_Processing_.html)
It is not a crusher, which are not recommended, it is a dislocator. It forces two vertebrae apart, thereby dislocating the neck. The individual neck bones are not crushed, just displaced.
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We use the same method as Cameron but OH shoots from the side. He usually does it twice or 3 times to make sure it has been effective as it is possible to shoot them in the head and not kill them.
It is an unpleasant enough job without the stess and upset of not being able to do it effectively. I dont see how the axe wouldnt be quick and effective if a little messy.
The ones that you screw to the wall which I think are supposed to crush the birds neck are aparently not concidered to be humane but some people seem to use them after hitting the birds on the head first to stun them. I personally found that I am just unable to stike them with a block.
Do you have an experienced dispatcher that you could call on to teach you?
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We used a proper rounded broomstick, under both feet and pulled up with the feet of the bird. My wife did this bit, and she is very strong for a woman, and I tried the manual method and I still couldn't break the neck (I am 6'3 and 14st, and wouldn't consider myslef a weakling at all). We were pretty gutted that it didn't work and can't really contemplate this method again, but still have another 8 to do.
that should have been enough.
the bird will still flap for over a minute in some cases, then twitch for a minute more before going limp.
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I was cutting birds necks all last year and thought I should try he broomstick method the other week. I have had mixed success with Ducks .
1. Complete failure with a singing duck and pitifull look up at me - finished with the trusty knife.
2. Success - quick and floppy bird that I could bleed out straighet away.
3. Disaster - I pulled the head off and was left holding the feet of a flapping bird and my face got coated in its blood - the dog pushed open the shed door and pinched the head.
4. TODAY - success as with 2 ( shed door locked !!).
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We used to wring necks of chickens but have moved on to an air rifle. We find this kinder and instant, back of the head, and we have done ducks as well successfully. As they flap about for a minute or two we tie a small plastic bag round the head and this stops them bleeding all over the place. It helps if their are two of you as well.
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YOU HOLD the bird upside down by the legs with the top of its head laying on soft ground when its still you put the pistol hard against its chin at an angle aiming the pellet so it comes out at the top front of its head that way the pellet passes though the brain and into the soft ground....i use this on most birds from geese to quail, i used it as its difficult to kill quail get a pistol and have the rifle ready for a second shot to make sure. a cheap pistol will do as you are not aiming at a target
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You need to get someone with experience to show you the technique its not about brute strength, I must say that a few people never master the technique, young birds are easier than old birds, ducks can be difficult and turkeys much easier than you would think mind you the ones I do are young, if you are bothered by all the flapping and want to bleed you bird an upside down traffic cone nailed to the wall is good I kill my own birds, I see it as part of the whole experience of poultry keeping.
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I've often thought that using an airgun to kill poultry was a dodgy method. Reading that people sometimes have to shoot the poor bird two or three times just confirms it. The so called broomstick method is easy, fast and humane. I can't understand how an adult human being isn't able to do it. Pulling a bit too hard and having the head come off is more likely in my experience.
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Dicky, where are you based? If you're close enough I can show you the broomstick technique - strength doesn't come into it, it's all about the right action and position.
Eve
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I always have a cleaver handy (or an axe would do), if I can't do the deed quickly (it's making sure you bring the head backwards into the palm of your hand as you pull that breaks the neck). with the bigger cockerels I will use the cleaver if I don't get it first time.
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I use the broomstick method but i cover the wings with a pillow case and while i am holding the birds legs i reach under to grab the two ends of the pillow case to stop any flapping before or after the deed.
When the head goes under the broomstick i can pull from the feet and the base of the neck where i am holding the pillow case. As i pull firmly up I can feel the neck break and can hold it for 30 secs until all the twitching stops.
I agreee its about technique not strength - The important thing is a controlled/timed pull only when you are firmly stood on the broomstick to make sure the head doesnt slip under. Pulling hard is not necessary.
Oh and dont look into the eyes of the bird!
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We use the broomstick method and have never had a problem. I've probably taught twenty or more people how to do this in the past few years so if you are near us (Cambs) I'd be happy to demonstrate!
Ben
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we use an air rifle. you need to understand that most of a chickens head is eyes and sinus. the lump at the back of the head above the neck is the target area. 1 shot will kill. to be sure cut the neck straight away. of the three types of bird ive killed the chicken is the toughest the goose the easiest and the turkey in between. im sure this has to do with the size of brain. always have an alternative method at hand the axe is a very sure if messy method.
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I'm quite surprised to see that many people feel the need to have a backup method to hand just in case. Nobody should even be thinking of slaughtering animals unless they're absolutely sure they can do it properly first attempt. Get someone to show you, or at the very least google it and have a look at the dozens of instructional videos. What happens if you have an injured bird that needs to be despatched? You should be able to sort it out there and then without any further distress for the bird.
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even the slaugherhouses have back up equipment.
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I'm off on a poultry course in the new year with this to be covered. A few days ago our cockerel had reached the point where he needed to be PTS. He'd been hit by flystrike,. I had to ask my dad ( a chicken keeper of some 70 years) to do the deed but the time has come where I need to do it myself. I think 'practising' on a dead one seems a good idea too, not sure what the course entails but seems a neccessity.
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even the slaugherhouses have back up equipment.
That is because they may have a breakdown not in case the slaughterman f**ks it up!
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I 'do' my own cockerels, usually without a problem, but there was once a big tough boy, I just couldn't manage it, it really upset me (as well as him) since then, I've always had something there just in case. I don't see a problem with having a back up plan.
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GET a wall mounted dispatcher its like a very blunt guilateen ??? ? breaks but never cuts the neck ebay item number 251059874550 there are used ones as well cheaper.... its takes 2 to do big birds one to hold the goose , turkey and one with 2 hands on the lever
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are the wall mounted ones reliable, Harry? I think I could do with investing in one if so! I hate not feeling 100% confident to do it myself and I think my Dad/hubby can't always be here and on hand!
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What about a poultry version of this? http://rabbittalk.com/topic9339.html (http://rabbittalk.com/topic9339.html)
Thoughts?
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That eBay one is the same as the one I linked to on the Ascott site. I had one when I lived in Exmoor with now XH and I bought another as soon as I had chickens again.
I mount it, not on a wall, but on a long (4') pole, like a fencing stake but with square sides. I can then take it to wherever I may need to use it, lean it up something stable - like a wall or gate - and use it there. I also find it easier to do on my own this way, but that's maybe just me, I am not dextrous.
It does work reliably, yes, it seperates two vertebrae thereby breaking the neck (severing the spinal cord) and not crushing the spine. Hold the bird firmly round its body to contain the flapping; when it's still, hang it up by the feet and let the blood pool into the wound in the neck. You can pluck it while it's upside down, or I just pluck it straight away and then hang it upside down.
I have never felt the need for a backup when I use this - but I have found that I need to take a bit of care exposing the part of the neck where I am going to close the jaws when I am doing a large cockeral with plenty of neck feathers. So if I had a very large bird, larger than I've done before, then I would have a backup handy.
I will be very interested to hear what you learn on your course, plums.
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Thanks for all the suggestions with this. I think I am going to try the air rifle to the back of the head with the next one and once it is out I will have another go with the broomstick until I get it right.
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I think I have got the technique right now as I have succesfully been doing one duck a day this last week or so. Quick and no problem. Plucking outside in the cold is no fun though ( will give it a miss today though as we have snow).
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We usually sit in the polytunnel to pluck. Quite pleasant on a cold winter day. Did two Jersey Giant cockerels yesterday, plucked one for roasting, just took the breasts, legs and wings off the other.
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It's not a pleasant job but I find the most effective way is to select the bird as they roost for the night then put it head first in a plastic "feed sack" and using a broom handle put that over the neck down on the ground and place your feet either side of the broom handle, stand up and pull steadily and you will feel the neck go, a bit of flapping around but its over quickly and without mess or distress to you. Hope this helps!
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We were taught the broomstick method by someone who gives courses for small scale poultry keepers in humanely dispatching birds. It was similar but not the same as above:
- needed: a large paving slab (or similar perfectly flat surface, so not on a lawn and definitely not on sand or gravel) and a broomstick cut in half
- hold the bird by its feet upside down, let it lean against your legs if it's calmer that way, its belly towards you
- lower the bird and put its head on the paving slab, with its chin on the slab and the bird looking forwards away from you. Make sure their head is upright and its neck straight and not sideways. You still have hold of it by its feet
- put the broomstick over its neck, with equal lengths of stick on each side of the bird's head
- put a foot on one side of the broomstick, your heel on the ground and the ball of your foot on the stick, and your foot as close to the bird's neck as possible
- slowly pull the bird (by its feet, which you are still holding) to make sure that its body and hence its neck are fully stretched (this is important, the head must not be pulled in towards its body, if necessary gently take its head and pull it forwards a bit)
- put your other foot on the other half of the stick with a decisive step (no need to stamp, but just don't go slowly), the scissor-like movement will break its neck. There's no pulling required for the actual moment of killing. There's always two of us and it's easier to hold your balance when stepping on the other half of the stick if you can hold on to someone's shoulder
- hold the bird under your arms as it will flap wildly for up to 90 seconds and this can dislocate a wing. Hang the bird with some twine from a tree or so, you will feel the blood pooling on the neck
For wet plucking, if the water is not boiling but at a certain temperature, it makes a big difference in how well the bird can be plucked. I can ask hubby tonight what exactly the required temperature is.
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That's very helpful, thank you Eve. Yes, please do let us know the temperature :thumbsup:
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Hi, I know this may sound silly, but make sure you are holding the bird the right way round, to dislocate the neck you need to hold the feet and wing tips together with the back of the bird facing you, if by chance you have the breast facing you, it will never work. Hold the head between the index and middle finger,then trap the beak against your palm with the remaining fingers and push forward and down, the neck dislocates and should leave a space for the blood to drain, this results in a properly bled carcass.
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Had an extremely experienced gamekeeper who didn't have the strength to break a cockerel's neck. Don't mess about PA with all these old fangled indecisive uncertain methods. Electric stun and cut throat or an air rifle pellet behind the eyes. The old methods were acceptable when the suffering of the bird wasn't considered but nowadays we surely want to do the best for our livestock?
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Nothing at all to do with strength it's all about technique and if carried out properly ever bit as human as any other way I have killed thousands of birds using this old! tried and tested method,