The Accidental Smallholder Forum
Smallholding => Buildings & planning => Topic started by: Brucklay on October 04, 2012, 04:25:48 pm
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Sorry if this is going to be a bit long winded but I need to put down the facts.
When we renovated the building/rebuilt 5 years ago OH and I ran all the cables etc and I did all the connections and then we had an electrician come in and test everything and pass it etc - so usually I can figure things out but I must be having an off week.
We have mains downlight throughout the house and they are all but the utility on dimmers - the GU10 bulbs are dimmable.
In the bathroom something blew (I wasn't there) tripped the RCD - so far I have tried replacing all the bulbs, replacing the dimmer (400w for 4 50w bulbs) twice, trying a normal light switch.
I'm a bit stuck as where to go from here - I should be capable just need to know the order I should do things. thanks
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sounds like a shorted cable
have you been drilling or nailing things anywhere there could be a wire for that circuit?
i'm not an electrician but i have nailed through wires occasionally :-)
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No I would have suspected that if I'd been out and about with hammer and nails but nothing has been done inside (even though there is stuff to do) for ages - I don't think a new kettle counts :)
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have you checked all the connections back to the RCD? What can happen is they flex eversoslightly and overtime can short out.
EDIT: just saw your comment about the new kettle, we once did buy a kettle that would trip the breaker. tho I don't think that's your problem here.
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and if its newish cable its fairly mouse proof...
the only thing to do is test each section of the circuit, take out all the bulbs trip in circuit, flip switch if it trips problem found, if not fit first bulb flick switch etc, till either it trip and gives you a clue as to the problem or you die of boredom!!!
good luck sounds like you need it!!!
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Ok thanks MikeM that's something I've not checked - I wired up the consumer unit so know my way around - think I'll leave it till tomorrow now before we end up with no light!!
Oh and the kettle is on another circuit!!
Yes I think you right Bloomer - think I'll rig one of my 4 'identical over buy lights' to a plug so I can test the bulbs in case I'm using a duff bulb somewhere - I can see me sweating in the loft with lots of itchy insulation tomorrow!!
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if it's tripping the rcd then you have a short to earth (as opposed to a live-neutral short, which would trip the circuit mcb) - live or neutral shorted to earth (or earth-bonded part like a pipe) will trip the RCD.
possibly a loose wire (as previously suggested)? or a cable that's got too close to a hot lamp and melted? Or (if your downlighters are earthed) a short within the junction box.
when you swapped the dimmer, did you check that the cable entering the switch backbox was passed through a rubber grommet (otherwise the metal can cut into the cable?
question: when you say it's in the bathroom - how do you know? does it trip only when you turn on the bathroom lights?
marcus
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Thank you Mab - It's tomorrow's job starting at loft and working down - too much work to do it today.
Re the cable in the back of the box they are all plastic so no rubber grommets.
And yes I did go overboard with individual room lights on one mcb and power on one mcb thought it would eliminate issue in the future - probably not usual but it's the way my brain thinks - so I know roughly where the issue is.
If I get it working and am no longer on candle light tomorrow I let you know the issue (although candle light is quite sweet - OH is finding shaving tough!!).
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All I can say is what a clever lady you are - I wouldn't have a clue. If any of my little switches go off i call my electrician from 6 doors away ;D :innocent:
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Well after most of the day rolling up 'fuzzy wuzzy' in the loft to expose all the junction boxes and wiring to see virtually nothing had changed from the time I put it in I was getting a bit p***ed off.
So then decided to remove all the downlighters (which does - even being really carefully mess up my carefully cut holes) found a bit of scorched heat resistant cable :rant: :rant: Ok it probably want the cables fault something somewhere must have slipped/slid in the combe/slopy bit and trapped the cable by the light.
So cable replaced and all is well. I do have another question for you experts though.
When I did the lighting plan I wanting downlighters everywhere and no pendants/shades and wanted dimmers so went for halogen = heat.
In all reality we don't use the dimmers much apart from the lounge so I could easily change all the switched to fixed on/off and got for LED (although expensive) not a difficult job - does anyone have any advice on using LED's
Thanks again Clare
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Woohoo - go girl :thumbsup:
Now, you could run a course for reasonably-practical-as-smallholders-but-electrically-challenged folk.
I'd love to be able to sort out the non-functioning two way switch that causes me to stumble about in the dark, and also move the ceiling roses in the kitchen (which would require more wire.....)
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Well Done Brucklay! ;D :thumbsup: :hug:
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:thumbsup: go on Brucklay! electrical-girl power! :D
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Thank you folks but I did have guidance from above and it really did come down to a process of elimination - my Dad taught me when I was about about 15 - my job was to wire the barn, weeks later it was done and it was time for the switch on - nervously I asked what if I done anything wrong he said "it'll just give a big bang" - thankfully it didn't - but not being a professional and not doing it full time you get a bit fuzzy on things.
Any LED light people out there?
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I've been using LEDs for a few years with very mixed results. I reckon there's still some time before they're properly mainstream.
The issues are bulb life, colour, spread and output. I've tried quite a few different brands and I can't find any consistency.
Life is disappointing. Lots have failed after a few tens of hours. One reason to buy a known brand like Phillips is to be able to take them back. The cheaper bulbs made up of a few dozen small LEDs get drop-outs and gradually fail.
They come with a range of colour temperatures but are often simply described as cool white or warm white. These are very variable - the cool can be practically blue.
The beam spread is also vary variable, and some 3W bulbs seem to produce as much as other 4W
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:thumbsup: glad you found it.
There are a lot of LED GU10 bulbs out there. I don't think anyone can give a definitive answer as to which are the best.
Beware of cheap LED lamps that claim to be 'equivalent' to GU10 but don't give a lumens output. An incandescent GU10 gives out about 350-380 lumens (50w) so you need to find LEDs that quote a lumen output that's similar for warm white (cool whites are more efficient so will give higher lumens/watt).
compact fluorescents typically give 5 times more lumens / watt than incandescent.
LEDs vary from about 5 to 10 times the lumens /watt than incandescent.
colour: standard GU10 halogen lamps are ~2800K - 3000K colour temp;
I have used these before; they're not cheap and are not dimmable but are standard size, 300 lumens (they say about 40w equivalent), are properly warm white (if that's what you want) and only use 4.9w:-
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTGU9WW.html (http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTGU9WW.html)
there are dimmable ones but will only work with a standard dimmer if you leave one standard bulb. Or you can buy LED dimmers.
SF you beat me to it!
having read SF's excellent points i'd add:- beware of very high power bulbs as they can overheat in well insulated downlighters (though some have fans built in to combat this). I've not had problems with failures (except for one with lots of small leds), but then I try to keep a good air space around the fittings for cooling. LED's run much cooler than standard bulbs of course, but being electronic they don't tolerate heat very well.
I've used the LEDs I referenced above in fire-rated downlighters (i.e. enclosed) without trouble.
marcus