The Accidental Smallholder Forum
Livestock => Sheep => Topic started by: JMB on August 13, 2012, 08:16:20 am
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Hello.
Sorry if this is an age-old topic. I maybe am not searching properly.
I'm thinking of moving my 3 kunekune's to a new field, but due to lack of space I'd like to put my sheep in the old pig field at some stage in the not too distant future.
My pigs eat Dodson and Horrell pig pellets and fruit and veg, and all pig feed has copper in it.
I can't seem to find a definitive answer on how long the pig field will need to be rested before my sheep can move in?
My sheep are mostly Hebrideans, one lonesome Shetland and one pet Blackface/Jacobs cross.
Thank you,
Joanne xxx
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Ona spit :excited:
Sorry no idea about the serious question.
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I put my rams in with my pigs once I've stopped feeding the pigs, when the grass starts to come through around March. I presume you're worried about the effects of copper residue in the droppings? I can't answer that question but I've never had a problem. The boys stay in the with pigs until tupping time (November).
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Would be very dangerous for sheep with low copper tolerance such as N Rons ......I sometimes graze the pig area but only if we have not had pigs for a year.....
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you have to watch the copper thing, as mentioned. On the plus side, copper-rich pasture is quite toxic to most worms that infest sheep, so a good place to put them to worm them to break the cycle.
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Hi, we have NRs and I would never do that. Harbro foods told me that no food company can really say they are 100% free of copper because there may be some content in the vessels which hold the grain. They did say that they add no copper to their sheep feed and that the level naturally in the food is less than 10% which is acceptable to NRs who are very copper sensitive.
When the RBST officer was here she was commenting on someone who put their stock (not NRs) on to a pig field and had problems. So I wouldn't do it unless its rested for a year.
With all this rain its a miracle there are any minerals left in the soil at all!
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Thank you.
I contacted Dodson and Horrell who make my pig pellets and they said not to put sheep on at all, but I expect that's a standard response.
I'm assuming then that people who do rotate sheep and pig fields either take their chances or maybe don't use commercial feed.
xxxx
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Or don't have North Ronaldsays......
Just be sensible about it. Don't whack the sheep on right after, wait till there has been a good dose of rain etc, and dont keep em on too long at first.
(unless you have one of the primitives that wont tolerate copper)
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Thanks again.
We have mostly Hebrideans.
I'ver searched online but can't find anything that says Hebrideans are particularly sensitive to copper.
Unless anyone knows different?
Joanne xxxxx
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I must have been lucky! But maybe will do a soil test to be sure ..
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Is there a soil test that will pick up copper content and tell me what levels are ok?
J xxx
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Hi there :wave:
I occasionally rotate my pigs in with the sheep, and sheep and pigs always share grazing but at seperate times, my pigs dont eat any commercial food though :s so this has never been a problem/concern for me
Hope all goes well :)
Jess
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JMB they used to do testing for minerals and copper in the soil i can remember this from the early sixty's :farmer:
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Before I got my NRs I did a soil test that showed the acidity level of my soil - I did it in about 20 places across the sheep field and it was just below the level of tolerance. It was easy to do - it was just a prong thing you stick in the soil and it read on a meter. I don't think Hebs are copper sensitive - you need Fleecewife to come on and tell you all thinks Hebs ;)
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Might be worth getting the pig poo tested as well as the soil ... to see how much of the copper is coming out in the poo, and how much is actually being absorbed by the pigs ?
And the forage too .. how much is being absorbed by the grass etc.
I wouldn't risk it myself, and I have (copper insensitive) black sheep, only cos it sounds too complicated to work out without some professional help. :) You need to know the levels of the other minerals in your environment too as they work together, some will prevent other minerals being absorbed and some will aid others. Like I said, way too complicated for lil' ol' me. :)