The Accidental Smallholder Forum
Growing => Vegetables => Topic started by: Tricky Trev on February 01, 2012, 08:13:17 pm
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\hi Just wondering ifs its feasible to start parsnips off in pots i never seam to get a good germinating sowing straight in ground any tips would be appreciated
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I would not think so as they dont like being disturbed, they dont even like you weeding too close to them. That is what I have been told and have always gone by.Is your seed fresh, as in last years! Parsnip seed has to be last years so make sure so when you buy it.It also needs a decent soil manured the previous year with no stones. My parsnips are Avon Resister a good hardy one , not massive but a good size and disease resistant. Good luck with them , you cannot beat a good roast parsnip, I have just had my last lot from the ground.
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I wouldn't be in any hurry to sow parsnips yet. I'm in Yorkshire and I don't sow parsnips until April or late March at the earliest. I think it is too cold earlier and they don't do well being sown in February although that is when most seed packets tell you to.
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I sow mine at the same time as you Hopewell, I always have to add a month or even two to the advised sowing times. Cuts down what I can grow outside :(
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I never had any joy with parsnips until this year when they were planted in late April and they've grown to massive size, to the point I still have about 2' of a row outdoors with straw banked up to them. I was worried they were so big they'd be woody but while the oven is bust so I can't test them roasted, they have made a pretty good curried parsnip and apricot soup ;D
Plan is to do the same again, and plant in situ as others have said they don't like being moved - I tried that the first year.. ::)
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only fresh seed and dont sow till the soil is at last 7degrees, i grew gladiator last year.
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As everyone says, plus: so your row doesn't get swamped by weeds, as parsnips are slow to germinate, use radish to mark the row. How I do it is to 'station sow' a few parsnip seeds in a group at the final planting distance, about 6-8" apart, then sow a few radish seeds between to mark the row. The radish seeds will come up in a few days and that way you can see to weed the row before the parsnips come up - carefully on your hands and knees - and the radish will be eaten before they shade the parsnips. Later on, thin the groups of parsnip seedlings if necessary to just one sturdy one at each station. It works :thumbsup: Oh and protect them from carrot root fly.
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I agree with all above but was amazed that neighbours gave me young swede ( yellow swede) and turnips ( white Swede) to plant on. They nipped off the end of the tap root and pinched off all but an inch and a half of the leaves. All have grown a storm. I would never have thought of planting out Young swede, turnips or the beetrot (sold on markets) - so maybe it will work with parsnips.
Let me know how they turn out please as germination can be hit and miss even with new seeds.
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Has anybody experience with sowing their parsnips in newspaper rolls? The theory is that transplanting them should not disturb them much and the newspaper should be easy enough for the parnsip to break through when growing. But I wonder if newspaper won't be too floppy once its had moist compost inside for a while, even when it's made of several layers...?
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There really is no need to start parsnips off, they are one of the first to go out as long as the soil is good for them.
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If you have trouble starting them off you might want to try starting them in toilet roll tubes filled with compost. Move them (tubes and all) into the veg plot once the seedlings appear - don't be tempted to leave it too long otherwise the roots will quickly poke out of the bottom. The tubes will rot away in your plot allowing your parsnips to grow.
I agree with everyone else though - I wouldn't put them in yet. Wait until the soil has warmed - late March at the earliest.
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we have always grown parships in toilet rolls (told by a old market gardener from Dorset) warm the ground with black plastic then plant out in march under a fleece cover. hope this helps
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We sowed them in February once and were very lucky - the subsequent years we had next to none as the weather was so different and last year hubby did some weeding resulting in the loss of nearly all seedlings...
So they'll break through the cardboard allright? Toilet rolls it is, then :)
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yes - i planted them in feb last year direct into warm soil. The diary shows it was 16 degrees last year - i.e a 30 degree difference in temperature compared to last Saturday at noon. Just shows how we can't garden by a planner.
I can not even see my veg patch but have no plans to erect the plastic greenhouse either. Think I'll see how it is next week.
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I did read somewhere that you can start them off on damp blotting paper (or similiar) indoors until they just start producing a root then plant out. Can't remember when though or where I read it.
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Some folk do that with different seeds MGM ,it is to see if the seeds are viable or help large seeds such as beans crack.
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Trev, try making a newspaper insert to fit inside a 3 inch plant pot double thickness and scrunch up the botttom to make the floor of the pot . Fill it with decent seed compost and sow a single seed in each pot .. Grow them indoors inn the warmth till they get the first true leaf not the seed leaf and then take them to the place where you are going to harden them off such as a north facing window cill then once the y are 2 inches high take them outside and plant them by carefully lifting the plaer insert out the pot . use the pot to make a skightly packed earth hole , remive then pot insert the paper 7 plant .. firm it and water it , dont leave any paper showintg above the soil line or it will wick moisture out the ground.
It's worth doing this with tywenty or so seed and see what you end yop with as well as sowing by the seed packet destructions.
Note the times given on seed packet are a generaal time as per weather conditions usually found on a coast to coast line across the UK from B'ham to Peterborough As a general guide for every 100 miles north add 5 days , for every 100 miles south take off 7 days , though elevation & proximity to the sea also needs to be taken into account