The Accidental Smallholder Forum
Smallholding => Equipment => Topic started by: mab on April 14, 2013, 10:07:08 pm
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To any landrover servicing experts out there, I've acquired an old landy and decided to do the timing belt as it appears to be at least 80K miles old.
I've got to the point where I have to undo the big bolt in the end of he crankshaft which is done up to a very high torque and threadlocked; I've made a tool to hold the crankshaft but my attempts to turn the bolt with my 1/2" socket set (and a long tube for a lever) have failed - have got to the point where I'm worried the 1/2" drive is going to give up with a bang if I try a longer lever.
any suggestions as to a good way of loosening? Or do I just have to buy a bigger socket set/ ring spanner? Or try a longer lever and wait for the bang?
Thx
marcus
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Marcus - I've notified my OH of yr enquiry but I expect you'll be deluged with responses from people on here :-)
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If you have locked the crank pulley nut with a scaffold bar to the floor take the wire off the fuel pump and turn the ignition a couple of clicks should undo it for you
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If you have locked the crank pulley nut with a scaffold bar to the floor take the wire off the fuel pump and turn the ignition a couple of clicks should undo it for you
alas; it's the socket/bar on the pulley nut that I'm worried about breaking.
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Some can be pretty tricky to shift.
And as mentioned using the starter motor is a very good way of doing it. But I have broken a few 1/2 " breaker bars doing it and now have a 3/4 bar with a special extension that jams against the steering box.
The shock of the breaker bar hitting the chassis when you flick the starter is what does the job. I have tried using huge bars before which just resulted in making the clutch slip !!
Have not been beaten yet !!
Good luck.
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Are you using an impact socket? Could be dangerous if not. You might have success with an impact driver, either pneumatic or electric
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Using the starter motor is the best way I've found. Google it I'm sure you'll find a youtube vid showing it.
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I'm currently trying with a regular CrV 1/2" drive socket - don't think it's an impact socket. I suppose I could try the starter method, but in the interest of not breaking tools unnecessarily I'll have to get something more robust first.
Looks like I'll have to buy more (expensive) tools; :rant: ruddy landrovers! ;D
Thx
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Once you have got the nut undone, then you have your next battle... If you are lucky the last person to change the belt will have lubricated the crank when fitting the pulley damper back on.
From new they where very hard to remove and I have even managed to break the Genuine Landrover puller doing one. That said I have not had a tricky one for years.
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::) oh joy! well, one battle at a time... ;D
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Hi,I snapped my 1/2" drive snapon bar trying to undo mine.But I undone it easily with a 3/4 drive one.
I don't think anything was easy about the whole job from start to finish.Doing outside in the snow didn't help.
Graham.
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Update: got a ringspanner; used the starter motor as recommended - job done :thumbsup: (almost a month ago actually)
Alas, three of the bolts through the water pump/timingcover sheared off (actually I think two were sheared previously and stuck back in rather than replaced), and as there's evidence of weeping on the timing back-plate/engine-block gasket, I'm currently trying to remove the backplate to replace the gasket and see if I can get the stumps of the bolts out - which involves removing all the sprockets (done) and trying not to mess up the timing ::) .
Ruddy landrovers - it's a good job this is a 'project' and not an everyday vehicle. ;D
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Oh Dear ! What a pain, the 200tdi's are rather prone to those 3 bolts sticking and breaking off ! Don't worry too much about upsetting the timing, is very easy to set it back up again with no special tools needed ( apart from a fully functioning pair of eyes) . At least you have the luxury of being able to take your time and do the whole job properly.
Good luck.
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another update;
bolts drilled out, timing belt/sprockets re-installed and everything put back together and (so-far) not leaking except for the where the alloy pipes/hose joints of the water pump & stat housing are heavily corroded and they're still weeping despite cleaning them up.
but it's running :thumbsup:
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Give them a scrub with wire wool and spray with ACF50, then coat with Vaseline to protect and lubricate (will stop pipes sticking on in future)
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Already wire-brushed them before reassembly - will try wool and failing that a bit of judicious filing - they are quite pitted.
ACF50? (quick google...) oh,sounds interesting wonder if it works on chassis? Then again, it's rather pricey for doing the chassis.
Thx
m
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It's rather pricey for doing anything but it is good on bare aluminium...
I'd still recommend lubricating them with something to help stop the corrosion and make them easier to remove in the future