The Accidental Smallholder Forum
Growing => Identification => Topic started by: highhorse on May 10, 2014, 09:45:13 pm
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hi
we hav just taken on some land and it has tufts or clumps of this stiff upright straw/grass like weed growing in places that looks like it it spreading.
before i can attempt to control it i need to know what it is.
any ideas anyone?
:/ x
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Do you have a picture?
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is it on wet ground? it sounds like rushes.
if so it does only grow where its wet, in our experience.
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A picture would help, but I'd hazard a guess that it's molinia - moor grass - and that certainly does spread, will take over if not grazed or topped.
They used to make forage from it, apparently, but up on the moors hereabouts the tussocks are now so huge - literally solid to knee-height - you've no chance of getting haymaking equipment to run across it.
They're reintroducing native breed cattle to graze the moors (from which they previously excluded cattle ::)) as they will eat the new growth - which at least will halt its progress.
Pictures please!
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pictures :-)
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those are the rushes described above...
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:-)
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any advice on how to get rid/manage.
its growin on well drained as well as wet areas :(
xx
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Top in the growing season, then weed wipe the new shoots as they start to sprout.
Repeat every year. Twice if possible.
Cattle and sheep will also graze young shoots, so if you don't want to use chemicals, you can gain some improvement by topping and then stocking heavily for a few weeks.
However.. don't go removing all (as if you could ::)) - they provide very valuable shelter for lambs and grown sheep and calves too, they use water so actually help to manage the wet in very wet ground, and they are also important to wildlife. So manage but don't eradicate.
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Top in the growing season, then weed wipe the new shoots as they start to sprout.
Repeat every year. Twice if possible.
Cattle and sheep will also graze young shoots, so if you don't want to use chemicals, you can gain some improvement by topping and then stocking heavily for a few weeks.
However.. don't go removing all (as if you could ::)) - they provide very valuable shelter for lambs and grown sheep and calves too, they use water so actually help to manage the wet in very wet ground, and they are also important to wildlife. So manage but don't eradicate.
by weed wipe you mean spray with weed killer, if so do you know what in particular?
:-)
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Seaves. Juncus rushes.
Long view - Keep cutting them. Improve the drainage.
Shorter view - as Sally says, cut them, and then weedwipe the new growth.
Weedwiping uses a bar with holes in, out of which comes the weedkiller at a slow drip, that brushes the tops of the seaves with weedkiller, whilst not getting it on any of the surrounding foliage. You use a translocating weed killer like Roundup (glyphosate), so it goes down to the rhizomes too. The purpose of weed wiping is to only treat the seaves, cos the roundup will kill anything it touches. It only works on the new growth, the old stuff is too woody for it to penetrate.
I've got to do mine this summer. I will beg, borrow or hire a tank and bar for the back of the quadbike.
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My friend has eliminated from his field by topping a couple of times a year... Took three years. I scythe them as close to ground as poss and they are definitely recedingreceding
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As has already been suggested, keep topping them and/or top and wipe with glyphosate.
Identify any drainage problems.
Might also be worthwhile checking the ph of the land in question. Could well be the soil is too acidic and would benefit from a lime application.
Bear in mind at this time of the year, those tussocks may contain the nests of ground nesting birds.
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thanks guys. as per your advice im going to try and cut the shorter ones (that the animals have already chewed a bit and where there are no birds) and then spot spray (as cant weed wipe). i will do it twice a year and see what happens!
will normal roundup work?
x :-)
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do you have a topper mower or similar? or even a strimmer will do to keep them DOWN at least
Cheers Ed
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Just been to a very informative farm walk organised by farming connect on rush control.
First dig pits to check for any drainage problem that can be rectified (plough pan caused by ploughing when wet, surface pan caused by animals paddling in wet ..... I now know what is wrong with field I had sheep in last winter!)
Improve drainage as much as poss.
Second check pH if below about 5.8 will need liming. The type you put through spinner works immediately and good if you going to over sow with grass seed. But will need doing annually as it washes out. ( If you have money to invest get land limed by contactors.. can't see us being able to do that till the lottery picks out our numbers!)
Third ensure rushes don't produce seeds (millions per plant and can last up to 40 years) ..... to have biggest effect cut or spray when flowers start appearing as plant is at peak and will be weakened better. Cut and weed wipe the regrowth is best. Use glyphosate with additive which helps it stick to rush (washing up liquid was mentioned) . Spot spraying is OK but remember glyphosate kills anything green so will kill the surrounding grass you are trying to get to grow.
You can mow and bale to remove (makes good bedding but beware of stage of plant as seeds will set in the bale and then be spread anywhere)
While rushes on the retreat you need to put in something to out compete it .... we are on upland and an upland pasture mix was recommended .... later growing grass types (a new one on me!) ... this can be broadcast onto field after some vigorous raking to expose soil (spike harrow) and embedded by Cambridge roll or more easily heavy density grazing by sheep for up to 3 weeks (they graze other plants right down and push in seeds with feet ).
Altogether a great afternoon and learned a huge amount .... look out rushes!!
Oh and SiN is correct they are good habitat .... so eradicate if poss in some areas and control in others (remembering to prevent flowering if possible) . Also be aware of restrictions on cutting times / spraying times for environmental reasons... cutting just at flowering is probably just when birds nesting too!
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While rushes on the retreat you need to put in something to out compete it .... we are on upland and an upland pasture mix was recommended .... later growing grass types (a new one on me!) ... this can be broadcast onto field after some vigorous raking to expose soil (spike harrow) and embedded by Cambridge roll or more easily heavy density grazing by sheep for up to 3 weeks (they graze other plants right down and push in seeds with feet ).
I am very interested to know a bit more about this... please? :eyelashes:
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We have reshy fields in environmental schemes, and cutting is recommended for us from August through October. It recommends a first cut then a second 8 weeks later.
We are not allowed to cut at all from 1st April to 31st July.
We are required to cut 1/3 of the reshes each year, a different 1/3 each year of course, so that there is a variety of heights and some open grassy areas to give maximum benefit to the birds (which it lists as "very important potential habitat for lapwing, curlew, redshank and snipe".)
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Have a look at the last picture in my thread I bought a flail mower to keep it all under control.
Hard work the first cut due to the field not being touched for years, but the second cut only took me an hour to do the whole thing.
http://www.accidentalsmallholder.net/forum/index.php?topic=44603.0 (http://www.accidentalsmallholder.net/forum/index.php?topic=44603.0)
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I have found Agritox to be very effective in controlling rushes in West wales. It does not kill grassland species but does need to be used during max growth period for best results. We got a 90% kill on thick patches using a knapsack sprayer with the dead rushes cut with a brush cutter and removed in late autumn. Regrowth resprayed folowing spring for 100% removal. But if the drainage problems and PH are not addressed they will be back!
Regen