[CarolineJ]

I've got a ewe I need to tip up to do some proper foot trimming (shelly hoof) and although I know the theory behind it - hold sheep against my legs, turn head around to shoulder, press down on flank whilst simultaneously removing my leg from her side - she hasn't read the book and even two of us together this morning failed to get her sitting on her backside (so we ended up holding her against the fence and picking up the foot like a horse, which is tricky angle to work at and allows her to kick more easily). 

She weighs a bit more than I do (she's a rather large North Country Cheviot), but I know it's all in the technique - what are your best tips for wrestling large wild hill sheep into submission??  (I'll be getting a turnover crate when I've got more of them!)

[landroverroy]

With all the expertise in the world, if the sheep is bigger and stronger than you, then sometimes you have to admit defeat. Otherwise you are reinforcing to the sheep that she can beat you and she'll be even more determined next time  !


So I find the next best thing is to put a halter on her and tie her up securely on a short lead to restrict her movement as much as possible. That way you can at least lift up one foot at a time and you don't need as much brute force to restrain her. Of course she'll still probably struggle and be an absolute cow and try and kick you etc, but at least the rope takes more of the strain.

Practise turning on one of your lighter sheep and once you've mastered it on an easier animal, it'll give you more confidence and you'll be able to deal with the more awkward ones as well.

[hexhammeasure]

turning the head is key, hand on chin is often cited as best technique but the wrist and thumb are two weak points on your arm so its difficult to get enough strength on strong necked animals such as tups. I have in the past used halters over the head and then allowed the animal to move ahead while slightly while holding the halter high and to its left which turns the head, pressing down on the middle of the back and stepping to the right has (sometimes) worked to drop the animal then dragging up onto its right rear haunch. beware a struggling animal as you are in the perfect position for causing back injuries when bending and lifting struggling sheep

[Backinwellies]

The main mistake made (and I used to teach this at college ) is to allow sheep to move backwards. ... and a circular dance then starts!)    Lifting neck is reverse gear so  try to avoid lifting..


Stand sideways on, strongest hand holding under jaw, other hand holding loose skin in front of back leg on opposite side (ie right over sheep) ...   now in one swift action twist neck hard towards back end (not lifting!) and step back pushing down with other hand/arm as sheep starts to go   (if you have an assistant they can help by grabbing back leg nearest you as you twist head.

If sheep neck is very stiff (ram for eg) then another method is to lean right over sheep lifting back leg nearest you  and slowly sitting sheep  (I'm not tall enough for this method but works well if there are 2 of you.) 

I echo the caution .... flailing sheep feet are lethal!

[Marches Farmer]

How tall are you and a helper?  For our Southdowns and Badger Face someone standing astride their shoulders and for the back end the foot trimmer also standing astride the pelvis facing the tail helps, although for a taller sheep it's good  if you've remembered to do your yoga/barre practise regularly.

[CarolineJ]

Thanks all - I'll try the headcollar method, I think.  If I had her head restrained tied to a fence post, I could then put my lunge line around her loin and restrain the back end against the sheep netting.

Marches Farmer - I've tried that way and ended up flat on my back more often than not!  At 5'5" and 5'6" respectively, if they go forwards and up at the same time, we're over.  The only one it works with is the 13-year-old, but she is now so used to being handled that she'll simply stand in the middle of the field and pick her feet up in turn for me to check them.

[Womble]

I can tip most of our sheep, but we have a couple of massive old ewes who are marginal, and the tup, who I have never tipped yet (I now just walk up to him whilst he's lying cudding, and sit on top of him before he has a chance to work out what's going on!  ).

With the big ewes, I've found that surprise makes a big difference. If I can turn their heads before they've had chance to realise what's happened, they don't stiffen up, and tend to just collapse in a heap. If the first attempt fails, there's no point in trying again, because they will tense up in advance, and I'll have no chance.

The same goes for one particular ewe, who has learned that she can avoid being tipped by dropping to her knees. That makes her basically impossible to tip, because she is then heavier than me, more stable, and with a lower centre of gravity. The next time she tries it, I'm going to try tickling her, to see if she rolls over like a dog!